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US M-1 vs. Euro Clone Helmet Components Guide!


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#1 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:18 AM

I was prompted to compile this quick at-a-glance guide because of some discussions / questions in some recent threads. It’s by no means definitive,  but is just an overview of some of the most commonly encountered components which are frequently mis-identified  and even mis-represented as being “original US...” on eBay and in various seller’s lists. Hopefully, it will help prevent less experienced collectors from making bad purchases!  I’ll use the generic term “Euro” for the non-US parts unless the country of origin is actually known.

 

Firstly, perhaps the most commonly encountered Euro component is the Belgian liner chinstrap. This is very similar to the original US design but there are several significant differences. These will be quite obvious in the comparison pics but, by rule of thumb, they will be of a thicker/coarser grade of leather in  a light tan shade and the hardware will be of unmarked brass. These are commonly used as substitutes for missing US chinstraps and, at a glance, look ok. US chinstraps are of a finer grade of dark russet leather with impressed “tramlines”, blackened hardware and maker marks are usually stamped on the buckles and /or rivets.  (the US chinstrap is at the top)

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0045.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0046.JPG

Edited by Bugme, 14 January 2014 - 03:21 PM.


#2 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:19 AM

Cont'd....

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  • 2013_0925Euro0044.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0047.JPG


#3 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:20 AM

( Out of interest, I’ve added some pics of cotton webbing Euro liner chinstraps...a very practical alternative to leather)

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0049.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0050.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0051.JPG


#4 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:22 AM

 Euro vs US sweatbands: The Euro sweatband is very similar to the original US design. Unlike US sweatbands, they are rarely maker marked. Also, they tend to be made with a brown-ish OD HBT tape backing with an unfinished end. US sweatbands have an OG cotton webbing backing. Finally, the Euro spring clips have a flat profile whereas US-made clips have a raised rib.

 

I’ve also included an earlier Euro sweatband which has a khaki HBT tape backing. This can be easily mistaken for a WW2 US sweatband ( NB. the green US WW2 clips were added by me. Ordinarily, it would have black clips)

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0058.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0060.JPG


#5 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:23 AM

The Euro clips (top) are flat.

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  • 2013_0925Euro0057.JPG


#6 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:24 AM

Euro HBT tape vs US cotton webbing.

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  • 2013_0925Euro0053.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0054.JPG


#7 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:25 AM

Sweatband buckle details.

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  • 2013_0925Euro0052.JPG


#8 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:26 AM

Khaki HBT tape.

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  • 2013_0925Euro0061.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0064.JPG


#9 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:26 AM

Buckle details...

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  • 2013_0925Euro0062.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0063.JPG


#10 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:29 AM

Euro vs US nape straps:  Top to bottom...US- made WW2, Belgian-made, US-made adjustable nape. Apart from printed makers’ marks, the Euro nape can be identified by virtue of its Belgian maker's mark on the snaps. The US snaps are often marked RAU of Prov. R.I.

 

 

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0040.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0041.JPG


#11 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:30 AM

Cont'd...

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  • 2013_0925Euro0042 - Copy.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0043.JPG


#12 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:31 AM

Chinstrap webbing: US-made chinstrap webbing is OG with a white cotton core. It has a different weave from Euro webbing, which does not have a white cotton core and is a different shade of green

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0025.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0028.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0033.JPG

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 03:41 AM.


#13 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:32 AM

Hardware: Whereas US hardware tends to be of chemically-blackened brass or steel, Euro hardware is frequently painted gloss black. When this wears off it usually reveals a copper-coloured metal beneath. Also, Euro hardware is unmarked whereas US hardware frequeently features the distinctive anchor or “P” logos.

 

Firstly, the T1 ball catch. Note the US-made one has an impressed “P” and is a slightly different shape to the Euro type. Also, the US-made one is a much more rigid metal.

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0011.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0012.JPG


#14 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:33 AM

Chinstrap keeper: The Euro keeper is gloss painted copper (?) The US keeper (left) is typically blackened metal and of a slightly different shape.

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0015.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0016.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0032.JPG

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 03:42 AM.


#15 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:34 AM

T1 “J” hook. Similar, but again the Euro hook is gloss painted and much more flimsy than the US hook (right). They also differ slightly in terms of their shape.

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0006.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0009.JPG

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 03:38 AM.


#16 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:36 AM

Next, chinstrap clips. The Euro clips are painted gloss black, whereas the US clips are chemically blackened. Also, the Euro clips are very flimsy and can be easily bent with the fingers...the US ones cannot! Also, the Euro clips have a flat profile whereas the US clips have a distinctive curve which is designed to fit around the bail. Firstly, the Euro clips.

 

 

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0018.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0023.JPG


#17 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:38 AM

Euro-clip compared with US (right) Note the curve in the US clip. (in bottom pic, US strap with anchor-marked clip is on the left)

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0020.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0021.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0039.JPG

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 03:52 AM.


#18 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:40 AM

T1 fastener: As you can see, the US fastener assembly (top)  is of chemically blackened metal, often maker marked,  whereas the Euro fastener’s components are gloss-painted and unmarked. Where this wears away, the copper-coloured base metal can clearly be seen. Note also the differences in colour and weave of the webbing.

Attached Images

  • 2013_0925Euro0030.JPG
  • 2013_0925Euro0031.JPG

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 03:43 AM.


#19 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:45 AM

Different stitching...US on left.

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  • 2013_0925Euro0038.JPG


#20 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 03:53 AM

If anyone else out there has some examples of US vs Euro helmet parts, please feel free to add them here. Thanks.



#21 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 04:33 AM

Interior of Belgian M1 liner. Note the leather chinstrap.

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  • HACOGI6973-2.jpg

Edited by Sabrejet, 25 September 2013 - 04:33 AM.


#22 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 04:36 AM

Typically displaying the Belgian national flag on each side. This is also often to be found on Belgian shells too.

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  • M1-helmet-liner1.JPG


#23 ghost

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:18 AM

Ian,

Thank you, this is a very handy reference.

Probably should be pinned 

 

CB



#24 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:22 AM

tHA

 

Ian,

Thank you, this is a very handy reference.

Probably should be pinned 

 

CB

 

Thanks CB!  ;)



#25 Sabrejet

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:26 AM

As sold in Wales....seller's blurb.  (£39.95 = $64 )

 

"These are post-war M1 helmets of European manufactuer and in great condition, inside and out. They come complete with an almost new liner and fittings, including the popper studs for attaching a leather chinstrap, these are all but identical to their WW2 US counterparts and unlike repros you know you are getting a fully fledged, full weight, army helmet.

The chin straps are the early post war type (almost the same as wartime chinstraps), you just have to stitch the chinstrap directly to the chinstrap bails."

 

Attached Images

  • t_629.jpg



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