Still looking for information.    Thanks, Jay

I’d did end up testing it on my recent Hawley liner endeavors that you can check out in the repro militaria section of the forum. Definetly need some practice, but it definetly has potential.

Hey gearfan I had a good buddy that was pretty good at it. He learned thru practice how long he had to leave the material in the bleach. Start with short small pieces and experiment. My friend is gone now so I can’t refer you to him but give it a shot. Good luck.

Yeah most likely.

Super quick question too, Is there anyway good to fix the pitting? I was going to use bondo after recommendations, But does anyone advise against it? Is there a better way I should use? Or is Bondo all good?

Update:  So far I've gotten all of the surface rust off the topside of the helmet I'm slightly struggling but getting by on the inside rust too. There is also a lot of pitting from the rust, But otherwise I am good to go.

I think the idea came from one of the first posts, I think the guy said KA-BAR on accident instead if M3.

Could be yes, I'm gonna do some research, see if it will in fact fit into other scabbards, (Original or reproduction)  I'll let you know as I go on.

Sorry for any confusion. What I am looking for is preferably a non metal replica of the m3 trench knife to put into my original scabbard. As far as I am aware, a KA-BAR knife cannot fit into the m8 scabbard. And I was preferring a plastic or a rubber knife to go along with regulations at reenactments. It's not that I can't get a real knife, I'd just like to get some "use" from it inside of a battle reenactment or a demonstration, or whatever the cause may be. If this all sums it up.

Thank you Jake. I’ll send you an email