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    • javimetal
      OK, something similar to what I did in the photo of the hole, but it's still almost impossible... I'll probably keep trying since I quite like the CIB badge I have. Besides, I don't often find CIB badges with pin back; almost all the ones I see have clutch post, and even then I wouldn't know exactly if they're short or a bit longer, from the WWII era....
    • GAZOO
      Link to INTERNET ARCHIVE for TOW WEAPONS SYSTEM MANUAL 1994 May have the answer  TOW MANUAL  
    • Yossarian7.62
      Exactly what I was thinking. If it is too good to be true, it probably is. It is a pretty good fake though. If it were not >$100, it would be fun to have to stick on a jacket or something. 
    • Armygas
      Very nice cape, I have one for a Navy Doctor about 1993, the lining is golden.  If you have any post Vietnam era USAF maternity items in that mystery pile please post a foto or two.  Cheers, Armygas  
    • patches
      With the pin backs, one could simply push the long horizontal pin though the thin outer wool shell, no need to try and push it though the thick padding.
    • patches
      This also pertained to the clutch back ribbon mounts, Wings etc, in may ways impossible to get the the clutch to "Bite" the clutch post through the thickness, both officers and EM Coats and or Jackets, EM ones not as bad, but still could be a pain.   I have to look around to see original coats, I drawing a dim memory of guys either cutting away the whole area where the stuff will get pinned, and or cutting a broad slit to be able to get at least a portion of their fingers to just pin insignia to the thin outer wool shell.   Perhaps others can share if this cutting was done.
    • Zepeleptic
      Would love feedback on this engraving (legitimacy, era) - thanks!
    • earlymb
      Hi Ken,   thanks for that, I am familiar with JaM and have bought quite some parts from them. Unfortunately, 'Niet op Voorraad' is Dutch for 'Out of Stock' and they have been for a while. Their shop is not that far from me so I usually go and pick parts up at their location.   However, I have visited their website again today at this exact page, because as you will see they use drawings from the Ford Archives to show the type of bolts and their location. I printed out those illustrations and Googled the numbers written near the bolts. It turns out these numbers are Ford parts numbers, and I was able to find out the correct sizes at least.   I didn't know that last diagram and I think that will come in very handy indeed! I think this jeep has the Type 2 suppression with all the toothed washers, but it clearly shows how many bolts of each type are needed (note the 2 bolts for the body gussets are missing). I'll have to check my slat parts manual but I think it only mentions flat washers and regular lock washers.   This really did help to get some overview! 🙂   Btw, I did get the MV Spares Type 1 suppression bond strap set a while ago and have started installing them.      
    • Collector .45
      Bringing this back to the top. It's been 108 years since his sacrifice during the First World War. You are gone but not forgotten.   Private Charles Francis Brown 77th. (C) Company 6th. Machine Gun Battalion 4th. Marine Brigade Allied Expeditionary Force
    • Scott C.
      Superb work.  Modelers who can assemble an entire kit (tank, airplane, ship), then begin painting it are amazing (I'd still be painting all the tiny bits individually). Looking forward to more in-progress painting photos.
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