possum Posted March 20, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 20, 2011 Just got a couple of questions here about fixed bails on M1 (and M2) helmets. Went to get a damaged front seam helmet converted to a fixed bail for reenacting, and was informed that the correct spot welding can only be done on bare metal. This is not a problem as I always clean the inside of helmets to enable this anyway. However, I was also told the area outside of the helmet where the bails would be would also need to be bare metal (if you see what I mean!). Is this the case? If so, I will have to strip all my helmets in the future and get them welded before I repaint and cork them. All info apprecitated. Somwhat related, anyone know where I can get some really good repro fixed and d bails from? How hard is it to make your own? Many thanks, Posum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted March 20, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 20, 2011 Here you go Possum...available here in dear ol' Blighty. Check out the US section of this website. His stuff is also on Ebay. Ian http://www.fallschirmjager.biz/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37thguy Posted March 20, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 20, 2011 Ebay sells both types of bails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugme Posted March 20, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 20, 2011 ...I was also told the area outside of the helmet where the bails would be would also need to be bare metal (if you see what I mean!).Is this the case?... To answer your question, yes, you have to have bare metal on the outside of the helmet also. Basic welding 101, all metal surfaces must be clean of paint, rust and other contaminents to make a proper electrical contact to perform a proper spot weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted March 20, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 20, 2011 Current ebayUK auctions. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M1-Infantry-Paratroo...=item20b7cc0ad0 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M1-Infantry-Paratroo...=item20b7cc0ad0 Sabrejet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted March 20, 2011 To answer your question, yes, you have to have bare metal on the outside of the helmet also. Basic welding 101, all metal surfaces must be clean of paint, rust and other contaminents to make a proper electrical contact to perform a proper spot weld. Thanks bugme, just the info I needed. Cheers Ian for the links. Hopefully I'll be able to get some soon! Also cheaper than I have seen elsewhere, which is nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenm Posted March 21, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 21, 2011 Fallschirmjager's D-Bales are wrong, as they're in stainless steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtdorango Posted March 21, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 21, 2011 Fallschirmjager's D-Bales are wrong, as they're in stainless steel. Thats a good thing!......mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww2_1943 Posted March 22, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 22, 2011 For all your restoration needs :thumbsup: http://www.jmurrayinc1944.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted March 22, 2011 Yes, JMurray is good (handsdown best of the mainstream. Very few complaints about my M2 I got a couple years back), but if you know where to look, there's better. Think what Glen means is the D Bails should be plain steel, also slightly thinnner than regular fixed bails. Stainless for fixed bails is correct though. It's what's on all my originals, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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