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Bad luck with Western "Shark" knife sheat:(

Featured Replies

#1

Today I got nice Western 6 inch "Shark" knife for my Naval Aviation pilots...

But see what happened after I put knife info sheat and fasten the keeper :((( damn.... not bad but always I got a bad luck :(((

 

Regards,

Jerry K.

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#2

In one way that is a bummer, but still looks like a nice knife. Could you show us more of it and the sheath? Is it the flat pummel? I really like Western shark knives.

#3

I feel your pain, i have terrible luck with those types of things as well:( Still looks like a beauty though.

 

Haydn

  • Author
#4

Thanks guys for comments... for good luck the crack is small and un-visible at display but still there is :(

 

Here photo of the knife, 3/16 bright riveted sheat,bright blades, steel guard, metal "bird's head" pommel...

 

the best regards,

Jerry K.

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#5

Nice knife Jerry.A common occurance with the westerns.I have an 8inch Western and it is pretty nice but the guy I got it from had slid the knife in and out and cut the sheath like yours.I think you can put a drop of gel super glue,

liquid leather weld or gorrilla glue on it and clamp and it should be a quick repair.The gorrila glue has to be used sparingly as it expands.I havent done my western but have tried it on othe pieces and works fine.

 

RD

  • Author
#6

Thanks Doyler for comments...

I was looking for this type of knife for a long time... Could'nt find the nice one in fair price.

I paied for this one 65USD. Not bad i guess.

Im was thinking about repair but Im not fan of some interference into items...

I will leave it as is...

 

can You post a pics of Your knife ?

 

The best regards,

Jerry K.

#7
Thanks Doyler for comments...

I was looking for this type of knife for a long time... Could'nt find the nice one in fair price.

I paied for this one 65USD. Not bad i guess.

Im was thinking about repair but Im not fan of some interference into items...

I will leave it as is...

 

can You post a pics of Your knife ?

 

The best regards,

Jerry K.

 

Jerry

Great looking knife and I think the price was really fair. :thumbsup:

I agree.Im not a big fan of repairs either.I will try to post the knife for you later.

 

RON

#8

jerry_k,

 

Here is a link to mine. It's the flat pummel variety.

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...showtopic=89086

 

I'm a fan of Western knives. I'm on the lookout for one like yours, but would love to have a Seabee.

  • Author
#9

Thanks for replies guys! The Western "Shark" knifes are the best :) Nice example Islandhooper... I like graffiti a the sheath...

Here is nice shot of Usmc aviator with Shark knife with "bird's head" style.

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#10

Jerry

Here are a couple Westerns I have

 

post-342-1291608490.jpg

 

post-342-1291608514.jpg

#11
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#12
post-342-1291608662.jpg
  • Author
#13

Hi Ron !!! Looks like You got great collection of Western "Shark" knifes!!! Thanks for photos!!!!

 

The best regards,

Jerry K.

  • 1 year later...
  • Author
#14

Yeah. I was able to replaced my old Western Shark with broken sheath for very nice condition another example of Western 6 inch blade Shark. This time I bought great blued blade near mint:) sheath is in great condition with double stitched.

 

Cheers

 

Jerry

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#15

A simple patch that will not detract from the appearance is a slim piece of "something" and fit it tight to the rivet and stitching on th inside (dry fit) Apply a small amount of glue that will not push out of the crack. Insert a blank or the blade part way, slide the patch between that and the inside of the split section. Press, clamp, whatever feels right until the glue takes This type of patch will keep the split from getting any worse.

 

This trick has been used to attach pieces of longer scabbards.

 

I don't know how some feel about lanolin, Neatsfoot, and products such as Pecards (or a host of others) I have used Pecards with great results on older swords and scabbards and some feel other products are a better fit. I have treated an old (probably post war) L-77 that had dried out washers, it has swelled and is significantly tighter. I suppose I should add more again as it is absorbed. A knife grinder's saddlery wife said never use mink oil, as it turns leather too soft but others have disagreed with that as well. That type of oil may be a choice if trying to stretch dried out leather.

 

The L-77 is a knife I use quite a bit. Never had a scabbard and came in a box lot. Swelling the dried washers was a great thing.

 

Cheers

 

GC

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#16

jerry_k, nice find!

 

Horseclover, Would you have any pics of a sheath with the kind of repair you described above?

#17
jerry_k, nice find!

 

Horseclover, Would you have any pics of a sheath with the kind of repair you described above?

 

Not offhand in my files but a trick used for leather sword scabbards The patch is not visible and the crack/tear would be otherwise look exactly the same but tight together. I have also attached felt in one case to the back side of a leather strap from a bit of horse tack. One repair of it easier to see than another. IN the first photo, our top right of the crescent was completely broken through with only a small margin on the left stable

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#18

In the next you can see just a touch of the backing as I pry up the brass to show the crack. This may compress enough for two pics and below also the backing, still untrimmed and actually a bit of the first paper repair.

post-55097-1330375121.jpg

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#19

Up at the top of the strap was a crack deteriorating and would have been in two pieces soon enough. I actually fold it when displaying, so this was a real issue. Again with the scrap of felt I had handy. Many materials will work and a thin plastic card stock might be just the ticket for a very tight knife scabbard. card stock is what has worked well for leather scabbard tears and breaks.

 

Cheers

 

GC

post-55097-1330375505.jpg

#20

back

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#21

Thanks so much for the info. The plastic is an interesting idea for some applications. I've seen some very thin mylar sheets that might be promising. I'm going to have to learn if theres adhesives that work with both leather and mylar.

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