Hi, I just bought a nice 1942 US WT 16" BAYONET, could somebody help me with the value of it? thanks

Hi, I just bought a nice 1942 US WT 16" BAYONET, could somebody help me with the value of it? thanks

 

This one dated 1943 just sold for $158.50:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-M1905-BAYONET-WILDE...3-/250628475456

That $158 WT bayonet seems REMARKABLY inexpensive...granted, it won't be easy to find a scabbard, but still...that's back to near reasonable prices for a 16" bayonet, and a WT noless!

 

Interested in others' thoughts...

 

Steve

This one dated 1943 just sold for $158.50:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-M1905-BAYONET-WILDE...3-/250628475456

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP, DANIEL

That $158 WT bayonet seems REMARKABLY inexpensive...granted, it won't be easy to find a scabbard, but still...that's back to near reasonable prices for a 16" bayonet, and a WT noless!

 

Interested in others' thoughts...

 

Steve

what do I look for in a correct scabbard for this bayonet? thank you, Daniel

Main things to look for on an M3 scabbard:

- Ordnance bomb stamped into the metal throat

- notches cut into the fiberglass, for the tabs from the throat

- do you want Army or Navy? Answer drives the color of the scabbard (OD or grey).

- beware the repro scabbard, they're out there, and I found a couple on ebay in the $75 range.

 

Here's a beautiful bayonet/scabbard combo:

Ebay 1942 M1905/M3

 

Good luck!

Steve

Main things to look for on an M3 scabbard:

- Ordnance bomb stamped into the metal throat

- notches cut into the fiberglass, for the tabs from the throat

- do you want Army or Navy? Answer drives the color of the scabbard (OD or grey).

- beware the repro scabbard, they're out there, and I found a couple on ebay in the $75 range.

 

Here's a beautiful bayonet/scabbard combo:

Ebay 1942 M1905/M3

 

Good luck!

Steve

 

Don't mean to be difficult, but the bayonet is a modern reproduction. The PAL marking is not quite right, but more importantly, the right side ricasso marking is a dead giveaway.

 

The scabbard is original, it is made by Detroit Gasket and fairly uncommon.

 

Just as a point also, all M3 scabbards started out OD green, some may have been painted other colors but the USN did not paint them as a rule.

Hey Gang!- I've also noticed that those fake M3 scabbards have a light-bright green color inside the top of the throat.Good quick way to ID the phonies. SKIP

Here's a repro I'm selling with an original for comparsion. The repros are just cheaper feeling, and the one in the picture does have green in the throat as mentioned above. The color difference is obvious, but a coat of the proper color would make that harder to spot..

Don't mean to be difficult, but the bayonet is a modern reproduction. The PAL marking is not quite right, but more importantly, the right side ricasso marking is a dead giveaway.

 

The scabbard is original, it is made by Detroit Gasket and fairly uncommon.

 

Just as a point also, all M3 scabbards started out OD green, some may have been painted other colors but the USN did not paint them as a rule.

 

I found the dead give away on those repos is the release button, notice on the one on EBay it has some random punch marks on it, the originals have a nicely checkered release button.

I agree with tj on the catch, that's an immediate give-away for your radar to go up. SKIP

Main things to look for on an M3 scabbard:

- do you want Army or Navy? Answer drives the color of the scabbard (OD or grey).

 

Here's a beautiful bayonet/scabbard combo:

Ebay 1942 M1905/M3

 

Good luck!

Steve

 

Like Gary says, it's not only a repro, but a terrible one at that! :jeal0001:

 

Steve, the only gray plastic scabbards for Navy blades were made for the USN Mark 1 and Mark 2 knives--never for bayonets.

Gents,

 

Thanks for the education on these things - and some good points to catch on the bayonets themselves. I wish I'd looked at that auction I posted earlier more closely - the right side cog was surely a dead giveaway, and I missed it completely (b/c I was looking at the scabbard, not the bayonet). But wish I'd looked close enough to point out the part about the bayonet not being good.

 

I'd never picked up on the catch checkering as a point for IDing good from repro.

 

Thanks again,

Steve

That's what I love about this forum. Everyone looks out for, and educates each other on Edged Weapons. It's great!! THX SKIP

Gents,

 

Thanks for the education on these things - and some good points to catch on the bayonets themselves. I wish I'd looked at that auction I posted earlier more closely - the right side cog was surely a dead giveaway, and I missed it completely (b/c I was looking at the scabbard, not the bayonet). But wish I'd looked close enough to point out the part about the bayonet not being good.

 

I'd never picked up on the catch checkering as a point for IDing good from repro.

 

Thanks again,

Steve

Thanks for all the help, I guess my $20. 1942 WT wasn't a bad deal. I'll send pictures some time. Daniel

I have a 16" UFH 1942 bayonet and a 16" plastic Navy trainer. Both scabbards are nearly the same color. The 1942 scabbard is marked with a flaming bomb on the front of the throat and B-N with an 8 below the dash on the bottom of the throat. The Navy scabbard is marked USN MK 1 on the front of the throat and B-N with a 2 above the dash and a 9 below it on the bottom of the throat. Hope this helps.