hi, i'm new to USMF and thought i would start a forum for those that enjoy knife restoration.  if you would like to share some of your work and/or your methods, please do! below are some examples of a few i worked on...

unknown model CASE

unbranded german knife

kinfolks 962

modified robeson sure edge USN mk1 (with loose finger guard)

valacut bowie

this next one i regret, in retrospect i ruined a perfectly beautiful knife.  here goes anyway

cattaraugus 225Q

Very nice work.  I usually don't try to restore a military knife unless it is no longer salvageable as a representative example of an issued knife.  The first one is an M3 that had its tip broken off and reworked. 

The second is an Everett knuckle knife that was badly sharpened. I didn't try to restore this one, just make it presentable.   I didn't paint it because I like it the way is is.

Marv

wow!  nice job on both misfit 45!  i completely agree with you regarding the "authenticity" of leaving a military knife alone.  the character they have should be left intact seeing as many of them have been to hell and back.  i'm curious about the M3.  it looks like there is only a little bit of the tang exposed in the before picture.  how did you go about attaching the pommel to the beautiful rehandle job?

Since the blade was shortened, I didn't see any problem with shortening the grip length somewhat as well.  I made a new pommel plate and allowed about an eighth of an inch of the tang exposed....more than enough to peen.  However, I also cheated and used some JB Weld just in case; no pun intended.

Marv

knifelover,  nice work.  Not knowing how new you are to knife collecting, if you already know what I am going to state next, disregard.  Many collectors fall into 2 different categories when it comes to restorations.  There are those who will do very little to their knives, feeling it should remain in the state it was found.  Then, there are those who will restore them to as close to the original as possible.  My example was more cleaned up, then restored, but I feel good soldiers maintain their equipment.  For image posting, I blurted some of the personal information on the blade.  Thanks for sharing and I look forward to seeing others work.

Lol, I see Marv.  That handle turned out extremely well!  One more question for you if you don't mind.  How did you get the handle grooves so perfect?  Did you somehow use a lathe?

Opseccc, what was your method of cleaning because you did a fantastic job also? That mark 1 looks amazing.

Looks like maybe 400 grit sand and a buff on the blade? Not sure about the handle....

Good work knifelover. The Cattaraugus blade looks good actually.

 

Here is my take on restoring and a recent restore of an RH36. First, I find the resto process very relaxing. I know about the folks who cringe at the thought of restoring a military knife, but you have to take into consideration that probably 95% of the knifes look has occurred since it left service. I certainly can't afford to pay hundreds of dollars for an M3 so I get many of the items on EB that no one wants. Then bring them back to some semblance of what it should look like. Think of it as a broke down rusty classic car.

Sorry for the ramble. Here is a PAL 36 I just did. Oddly, I took no before pics of the knife, but here is the sheath before and the finished knife. Sheath might need work.Thanks.

Here is a Cattarugus that was badly rusted and had a nickel sized chunk out of the edge. Junk to jewel.

On 3/23/2024 at 6:52 PM, knifelover said:

wow!  nice job on both misfit 45!  i completely agree with you regarding the "authenticity" of leaving a military knife alone.  the character they have should be left intact seeing as many of them have been to hell and back.  i'm curious about the M3.  it looks like there is only a little bit of the tang exposed in the before picture.  how did you go about attaching the pommel to the beautiful rehandle job?

 

 

Its not uncommon to have a broken or short tang fixed by adding stock to extend the tang. Typically a person with a wire welder and round stock can weld a piece onto the tang or extend it then reshape the metal to the desired shape and length. Then weld, thread it, pin it or peen it over to the pommel or plate used for a grip cap. The weld or repair is covered by the grip washers.  I had a member of the forum restore a USMC Robeson for me and the tang was shorter than original. Also the pommel needed to be made and a red spacer added. I will find the topic and post it for reference

Here is the Robeson USMC restoration I had done.  The leather washers were left original. Pommel was made and red fiber spacer added. 

 

https://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/307280-usmc-robeson-restoration/#comment-2469528

you can hardly tell that Robeson was repaired... I just started my first official rehandle a few days ago, a Kabar 1205.  you can see in the pic below that the pommel was somehow snapped off leaving two "fingers"

i removed the old handle, ground the fingers to an even length and opted to weld a 10-24 bolt in between the fingers (which was just a little wider than the tang itself, then ground down and sanded the weld

i installed the spacers and leather washers today, i have it all clamped together in the shop right now so no pic yet.  but i'm going to use brass for the pommel and tap it to 10-24.  i'll post pics when i get er done.

martyb, i'm just seeing your post now, my apologies for skipping over you!  both the PAL and the cattaraugus look great!  how the heck did you repair a nickle size chunk missing out of the 225Q?

Thanks for inquiring knifelover. I do these type of repairs with my mig welder. It works well, especially with a blade that will be finished bright. Of course there are some variables but that's how I do it. Others may use other methods or welder types but this is how I do it. If you need to blue it or parkerize it this doesn't work as you will have dissimilar metals and the repaired finish will be obvious. I have filled DEEP pitting this way but again, if parking or bluing you have to account for this by creating a worn finished blade. Basically making a well used look but now structurally sound and functional.

Hey all, here is a K-Bar Mk2 I brought back from a bad situation. Reinstalled and cleaned up the original handle, wasn't in very good shape. Reparkerized as well.

ok, i need to know how you guys are getting such nice grooves in your rehandle jobs.  is it tedious filework, a lathe, something else...?