What is the best way to store a knife collection? I have a metal file cabinet with narrow drawers and want to put my collection in it. What shall I use to place the knives on? The bare metal? Cotton cloth? Wood? The liners used for tool chests? Or?

Any advise will be appreciated.

Thanks

Store the cabinet in a climate controlled place. Soft rubber drawer linings would work fine; just make sure that you wipe the knives down with a rag that on which you have sprayed a good lubricant. You don't have to soak the rag; just make sure that it leaves a protective film. I like Tri-flow; I have used it in Florida since it came out many years ago and it works great.

...... I like Tri-flow; I have used it in Florida since it came out many years ago and it works great.

 

GB,

I didn't know you were THAT old.........living in Florida???

52..... All fun aside, the best storage conditions I have ever seen, belongs to "bayonetman" a forum moderator. They are beautiful, and have a nice backstory too!

Perhaps he will add pictures.......?

GB,

I didn't know you were THAT old.........living in Florida???

 

'Fraid so. I thought you knew that! Right here in Heaven's waiting room Been one of the actively working folks for the last 43 years. Hey, somebody has to work around here--not everyone is retired, or on vacation!

GB,

I didn't know you were THAT old.........living in Florida???

 

'Fraid so. I thought you knew that! Right here in Heaven's waiting room Been one of the actively working folks for the last 43 years. Hey, somebody has to work around here--not everyone is retired, or on vacation!

 

.....And all this time, I thought that Florida had a "Federally-Mandated Reserve-Status"; as "just for": tourists, retirees; and like you said "Heaven's waiting room..." Hmm!

So... could it be possible?, that some people, may ACTUALLY have been BORN, in Sunny FLA, .....as well??

Most Interesting! .....

 

****

 

On to the point of "52m37"...

Do Not ever store a knife (of firearm, for that matter), on or in anything that is 'absorbable' of moisture; especially w/o proper treatment. Particularly, keep them out of leather sheaths/holsters.

[it can easily transfer, and create oxidation, "rust".]

On all of my padded cases, I liberally spray the inside, with weapons oil. It will displace tendency/aggregation/possible transfer of hygroscopic (water) absorption.

 

As GB suggests, coat with a good quality weapons oil.

An alternative, especially for handled/display pieces, is a preservation wax; such as "Renaissance Wax".

Re-treat several times per year; as required, for either method.

 

Regards,

Don.

.....And all this time, I thought that Florida had a "Federally-Mandated Reserve-Status"; as "just for": tourists, retirees; and like you said "Heaven's waiting room..." Hmm!

So... could it be possible?, that some people, may ACTUALLY have been BORN, in Sunny FLA, .....as well??

Most Interesting! .....

 

As a matter of fact, while I'm a transplant, my wife is a real Florida Cracker. The name comes from the sound that Florida cowboys in the 1800's used to make when they cracked their whips to flush out the Florida scrub cows out of the palmetto scrub. And I can tell you, that she can crack that whip!

I put a small block of camphor in all my display cases it slowly evaporates and leaves a thin film on everything and does a great job preserving the leather and wood as well and it smells good on another note dark beer has shockingly good rust preventitive qualities

I put a small block of camphor in all my display cases it slowly evaporates and leaves a thin film on everything and does a great job preserving the leather and wood as well and it smells good on another note dark beer has shockingly good rust preventitive qualities

 

Although a "sincerely-vague recollection" of Camphor exists, as an oxidation-prevention method; I certainly appreciate the refresher!

 

However, as I much enjoy "dark"--'bottom-of the-barrel' heavy-beer, that would seem to be preferable...

"A little for the the weapon's metal, and a little/lot more for me, ETC!!

GREAT Concept!!

 

TRULY Informative. Thanks!

 

Kind Regards,

Don.

I remember some machinist I worked with at a shop keeping his gages and standards in a wooden tool chest with the camphor cake in the bottom.

About 20 years ago, when I was starting to collect Springfield edged weapons, I bought two blue print cabinets, and lined the bottoms of each drawer with felt from a paper drying machine. I have had great luck with storing quite a number of bayonets and knives in a relatively small amount of floor space. Keeping the edged weapons lubricated is essential from my perspective. Springfield Edge

So would normal felt work or is there a specific kind?

I support the recommendation about the Dark Beer. I've been using liberally it for years and it keeps my plumbing rust free according to my doctor.

Maybe for you but not for me!

Having lived in Germany for a few years I can safely say that dark beer keeps the rust of the internals.

 

I would avoid using felt. Felt has a tendency to attract moisture. Many nice firearms have obtained a rust ring were they have been sitting in gun cabinets etc.. remember that old green felt that you used to see on old gun racks and in cabinets. I would use one of the more modern synthetic linings that are used in tool or knife drawers. Make sure it is impervious to oil as some of the cheaper materials will break down like a rubber band and actually stick to your knife, etc. Tri-flow, Barricade, etc., are good lubricants and preseratives, however, for long term storage I would use a wax. Many or probably most high end museums use a form of micro-crystalline wax polish, such as Renaissance wax as Don and GB mentioned above. There have been numerous articles written in popular museum/gun magazines, Man at Arms, Nat Rifleman, etc., on the effects and differences wax made preserving weapons during the likes of Katrina, etc. I know it is a little bazaar but I also suggest keeping a pair of those cheap little white gloves around. You probably keep your hands clean, etc. and do not touch the blades, etc., but most of your non collecting friends do not know or understand what fingerprints, etc.,, may do to the metal in your collectibles. It just one step you can take so you do not have to worry about when you have to wipe them down again. I know probably a bit anal, but when that finger print shows up on that dark blue mint blade dated case m3 I'm sure you will cringe.

 

Ok.. now back to the serious part of the discussion, does a nice fine double bock or dopplebock work better than other dark beers.. does a belgian dark work better and than a german... are there any equal domestics or should one stick with imports...? inquiring minds and my little pea brain wants to know...

Would haveing a layer of Ren wax be okay to have on the blade when putting in the sheath/scabbard, or should it be wiped off before doing so? It does simply wipe off if needed right? One of my relatives said that I shouldn't leave an oil film on anad then put a blade in a scabbard or sheath because then you'll never get it out.

I am not sure what you mean by never get it out.. the oil out of the sheath or the knife out of the scabbard/sheath. I have never heard of knife not being able to be retrieved from a scabbard, etc. unless it sat for years. You should not store your knives in their scabbards/sheaths. The leather/cloth sheaths can attract moisture or develop verdigris which can damage your knife. The other type scabbards can also leave corrosion marks were they touch the knife but more importantly they will scratch or wear the surface of your blade. I suggest they be stored together but separately. The wax can be removed but I will leave that up to the experts to tell you how to do it the best.

 

Some good ideas were mentioned above. Map tables or architecture cabinets with lots of drawers. Coffee tables with glass display tops. Book shelves, or modified book shelves with a slant that will allow the blades to rest vertically, etc. I have limited space because CINC House has restricted my stuff to my office so I am always in the process of displaying different items, etc. and have to be creative.

 

Regards,

CC

By not get it out I meant if you put the blade in the scabbard/sheath and have oil or Ren wax on it and then have the oil or wax sitting in the sheath or scabbard. So far the blades I've got have been in their sheaths but I'll get them out today.

IMHO regarding oils and leather, stay away from petroleum based oils. That's a generality, too much of any oil is not good for leather. As far as Ren Wax goes I see no problems with that in contact with leather.

Still best practice is to not store steel in leather or other materials that may tend to concentrate moisture on the surface of steel.

I store all my edged weapons in a plastic storage container with a Camphor wedge. On a diffrent note I had purchased a Navy PAL MK 1 with leather ring handle. The handle appeared to be missing a ring, about a quarter inch short. On a whim I placed the knife in a ziplock with a damp rag and I'll be damned if the leather didnt expand and close the gap in about two weeks. Nearly mint condition now.

Renaissance Wax has my vote.

Anyone know where I could get or order some ren wax from? Also, what does it usually cost?

It's been awhile since the last time I shopped for any. But this would be a good place to start. I'd encourage you to do some price comparisons. Things change.

http://www.restorationproduct.com/

I use Birchwood/Casey Sheath . I know its petroleum based but I like it and havent had any issues for 25+ years . I think they call it something else now with the same formula . BTW its great for guns too . JMO

thanks for the help.