thanks for the refernce and tips Dave. Great information that will go a long way. havent got burned yet. Hope it never happens.

Thank you Dave for that post. That should be mandatory reading for all the forum newbies. :w00t:

Very glad I took the time to read it.

I have been in the business of buying and selling used and collectable uniforms since 1985, joining a family business that started in 1946. It hasn't always been like this. I remember when fakery first started to appear and I remember finding out that two other local dealers were manufacturing fakes. I guess I'm naive, but it shocks and disgusts me. I remember when people were so much more trustworthy. Such a shame!

 

Anyway, thanks for the excellent tutorial. Sadly, I needed it.

Great article! Lots of good information and it should go for other countries also as we all know there are many fakes out there.

Unless, of course, there's some solid documentation or other proof http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

 

 

Exactly. It seems like more times than not if I hear a crazy or interesting story on an item that does not include documentation, the item is a reproduction or is way over priced likely due to the story. Its a shame because I bet a lot of true stories are overlooked due to the fake ones.

I've been 'learned' of a new tactic being used by uniform fakers, mostly in East Asia (I hesitated posting it for fear of go in anyone ideas but I think those guys are pretty much off of here and I can trust this group). We are all aware of some of the more prominent makers but they are now using rarer and relatively obscure makers in their fakes to reduce suspicion: 'oh, it's Union Kitting Mill out of CT? This can't be fake'. You got the point. The best advice is, like everyone has said, to trust your gut. If it doesn't seem right, it probably isn't. Stay safe

 

Kyle

This is a big help!

Thanks.

Also a UV light can show signs of modern day repairs unless old thread was used.

David

hi, like most of you guys, i too have been colllecting uni's for over 30 yrs. but im always looking for more info, so i clicked on that site mentioned above, but i keep getting a forbidden code, just curious, is there a different way to get to it?

Great information. It pays to do your homework.

This topic would make a great book. This is the real deal, look for this, this, this. Fakes on the other hand look for this, this, this.

On 12/7/2007 at 12:53 PM, Dave said:

Note how the patch is sewn onto the uniform. Is it hand sewn? Is it machine sewn? WW1 patches are typically hand sewn, whereas later patches are typically machine sewn – though WW2 patches are just as often seen as hand sewn. I’ve seen every kind of possible sewing – from crap to really good, all from veterans, so it’s tough to say that one kind of sewing is fake and another is right. But what can you look for? Well, look around the edge of the patch and see if you can find any other holes where thread used to be. Even if the soldier reused one patch off another dress uniform for this uniform, the a couple times laundering the uniform should take care of the old holes in the patch.

 

Watch out too for any loose threads around the patch, particularly if there are any loose threads not in the vicinity of the patch. This might show the removal of an earlier patch that wasn’t cleaned up well. Also, check to see if there’s a shadow of another patch around the edges of where the current patch is. This happens, but over 60 years, those shadows have mostly faded. If there’s a definite shadow, particularly if there’s a shadow and you can feel raised bumps around the edges where another patch was cut off and the original thread was – beware. Also, check the lining of the jacket inside the sleeve. Are there signs of another patch that was removed? Real uniforms will sometimes have this, but it needs to make sense. For example, if you’re looking at a 101st Airborne uniform, and inside the sleeve you see the marks of a round patch…does that make sense? That’s where knowing what you’re buying – knowing from experience and reference books – is key...

 

Next, look for a characteristic “sag” under the patch on the sleeve of the sleeve material. This sag comes from the “adder” adding the patch and sewing it with the material stretched taught – but without the patch stretched taught as well. I have never seen a from-the-veteran uniform with that sort of sag under the patch – but I have seen plenty of uniforms on eBay and at shows with the sag. Is it a guarantee? No. But once again – buyer beware.

 

No type of sewing is a guarantee of originality. Why do I say that? I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard “well, it’s got X stitching, of course it’s real.” Well, that can be faked just as easily as anything else. Anyone with a talent for sewing (and there are plenty out there) can sew “X” stitching around the edge of a patch. Just one more thing to watch for…

 

 

 

Dave - 

 

As others have already said before, this is an outstanding thread you created. 

 

I added a little more detail about the sewing portion of the topic you raised, specifically about the items and thread types from that era, it may help people pay closer attention to the stitching material used in the uniform.

 

This is what the Senior Curator for the National WWI Museum and Memorial wrote to me:

 

"I looked through several of the US sewing kits in the collection. There are a wide variety of makes and compositions. Some were issued but many were put together by American volunteer organizations like the Red Cross and YMCA with whatever materials were available at hand and given to the service personnel.

 

Thread was cotton, up to 6 cord, with some linen finish on the cotton thread. Also silk, especially waxed silk was used. There was also a 2 ply darning floss. Two noted US thread producers were John Clark Jnr. And Co. and J & P Coats.

 

Sewing needles were referred to as No. 5/10. Also as embroidery, crewel and nickel plated needles. A term was sharps of 1, 3, 5, 7 size. Needles (present in the collection) were made in Germany, Japan and England.

 

I could find no specifications or orders for the types of stitching."

 

On 12/7/2007 at 12:53 PM, Dave said:

I’ve seen every kind of possible sewing – from crap to really good, all from veterans, so it’s tough to say that one kind of sewing is fake and another is right.

First I want to say this is a really great post and has been very helpful.

 

Just to highlight how something totally weird with a uniform can actually be original, when I was in the Navy we had to stand inspection for a visiting dignitary up on the flight deck. I had just been promoted but had not yet changed the rate on my dress white uniform from Petty Officer Third Class to Petty Officer Second Class. Our Chief made it clear at muster that he expected everyone's uniform to be up to date, no excuses. I could not find any white threat so I sewed my new rating on with dental floss. Made it through inspection!

It's crutial to educate yourself on the typical materials, stitching, and patterns used in authentic uniforms, as fakes often have telltale inconsistencies. Be cautious of deals that seem too good to be true, as genuine military uniforms usually have a standard price range.

Great post to keep parked as a sticky topic in the subforum.  There are so many buckets of patches and insignia out there and thread is cheap, I guess it is just a matter of economic for fakers to take up these projects.

Question:

 

What are the ethics in terms of putting together uniforms? I am trying to make a Korean War film and I will need to be adding insignia, decorations, and patches to uniforms. Afterwards, I will have to sell them. Should I advertise them as put-together? Should I sell them for less than just a regular uniform without insignia?

 

Thanks,

 

Wade

On 2/26/2026 at 6:37 PM, Wade20th said:

Question:

 

What are the ethics in terms of putting together uniforms? I am trying to make a Korean War film and I will need to be adding insignia, decorations, and patches to uniforms. Afterwards, I will have to sell them. Should I advertise them as put-together? Should I sell them for less than just a regular uniform without insignia?

 

Thanks,

 

Wade

First of all, that sounds like a fascinating project! Maybe you could make a post on it in the movie section or somewhere like that :)

Concerning your question: You can sell them, but you should state, that they are put-together, but that everything (?) is an original item on its own. The danger there is, that they might turn up as originals further down the line, when people with malintent got their hands on them. So it might be best to remove the insignia, that you added, and sell it seperately. But that's just my suggestion as I think, that that would prevent your put-togethers from being sold as originals further down the line, when 5 people have bought it since the first buyer, who acquired it from you (provenance will have gotten blurry by that point) :) Hope, this makes sense. :))

 

Kind regards,

Jules