WW2 Camillus M4

[Sarge55]

Hi All

 

I just picked up an M4 with an M8A1 scabbard from the vet and it's been sitting for years in a drawer. It's just starting to surface rust and the former NCO in me wants to oil it up and make it serviceable but I've heard also not to touch old things as it detracts from value. The blade is still sharp but I would touch it up if I would be carrying it on my pistol belt. Any thoughts would be appreciated and I could upload some pics if needed but it's in pretty good shape for a 'been there' blade.

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

[thorin6]

Go ahead and put oil on it, being careful not to get oil on the leather washer handle. If there's some rust, let the oil soak in (I use Kroil) and then rub it down with a cloth. Don't rub it with anything rough, and avoid steel wool as it will remove the parkerization. If the leather washer handle is dry, you can use some Picard's Antique Leather Dressing (avoid anything like Neatsfoot Oil, as those products cause the leather to deteriorate). A little maintenance will not hurt the value, but removing finish or oiling the handle will.

[SKIPH]

I'm with thorin6 ! I use LSA on all metal, and brown or neutral shoes polish on the handle. LSA won't hurt the metal on the M8A1 scabbard either. I like the LSA because you only need to put it on every year or two, if the blade is not used. Been using it for 40 years, haven't had a rust issue yet. SKIP

[Sarge55]

Thanks for the quick heads up guys, I really want to do this right because I want to mate this with my buddy's MI carbine. Any tips on touching up the blade? When I was on active duty I used a Lansky sharpening system for all my blades with good results but it leaves an almost too perfect edge on the blade if you know what I mean. I'm thinking of using a stone just to make it look more period. Any thoughts?

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

[thorin6]

The only time I use a stone is if there are small nicks that have pushed some metal over the edge of the blade. I gently remove the metal after putting oil on the blade. I don't try to sharpen the entire blade, as that can detract from the value.

[tsellati]

Thanks for the quick heads up guys, I really want to do this right because I want to mate this with my buddy's MI carbine. Any tips on touching up the blade? When I was on active duty I used a Lansky sharpening system for all my blades with good results but it leaves an almost too perfect edge on the blade if you know what I mean. I'm thinking of using a stone just to make it look more period. Any thoughts?

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

 

IMHO this is where you are going to get yourself into trouble. I agree with what everyone else has said about gently oiling the metal to prevent development of rust that could be damaging. If the leather is dry I like Connolly Hide Care, but, others swear by Pecard's and it is probably half of one and six dozen of another.

 

Now, back to getting yourself in 'trouble', that is perhaps too strong a reaction, but, I would not sharpen the blade in any way shape or form. In essence that alters the original condition in which it was left by the vet that used it.

 

If it was in the condition (blade wise) that it is in for the past 60+ years, how can altering it improve its' collectibility/provenance? I think you could do more harm than good sharpening the knife - at least is some collectors' eyes.

 

Tim

[DSchlagan]

It is my personal observation/practice that using the correct grade of steel wool on most any finished metal surface works wonders for cleaning up surface rust/oxidation, cosmolene, and general scrunge; w/o detracting from either the original finish or honest wear colorings.

 

I have extensively used 4 aught (0000) steel wool, dosed heavily w/WD40, to clean many fine metal surfaces. Including: hot/cold bluing, case hardening, Parkerization, and on non-ferrous metals.

[Of courser w/non-ferrous metals (such as brass), good judgment should prevail on proposed patina removal. And on the note of care/judgment, every metal surface is somewhat unique and should be thoughtfully considered; EG: lacquer coated case hardened receivers, which I have more than once observed on fine antique firearms.]

 

Patience and elbow grease are a must; the temptation to use courser grades to 'hurry things up' must be strictly avoided.

 

I will usually do a cursory application of 4 aught and WD to let the process get started chemically. Then just keep on working at it, over time, until a clean rag shows no evidence of rust colored remnant.

 

I will then apply LSA to the more utility items, and specialty wax to finer items. Many of the conservator's waxes also are recommended for leathers.

 

 

*Also agreed that it would detract from this particular piece by any resharpening.

[thorin6]

Using steel wool or any other abrasive will remove both rust and some of the parkerization, even with oil. I think you need to stop the active rust without harming the finish to the maximum extent practicable. It's a judgement call as to how much rubbing, and with what materials, is needed to that. I have some metal that I've oiled and left alone, and other metal that I've worked slowly and carefully to get as much of the rust as possible without harming the item (be it a blade, guard, tang, pommel, etc.).

I agree with not sharpening the blade, but carefully stoning a nick to remove excess metal should not detract from the overall value of the knife. However, every collector has his own criteria as to what adds or detracts from the piece. You have to make your own decisions.

[Jack's Son]

Mark,

This is a question nobody has asked, but it makes a world of difference in the care of the knife!

.........."Why would you carry this knife on your pistol belt" ?

Is it for reenacting, display or do you use your pistol belt in your line of work ?

 

If the knive is for display, all of the above advice is solid. If you are a reenactor, the handle and scabbard will require EXTRA care. AND if you will possibly be using the knife in a work capacity, all advice regarding preservation is a waste.