Coleman G.I. Pocket Stove

[B.A.R.gunner]

I have the civilian model 520 pocket stove, I got it last year, and i have run it, but it was fussy in the winter temperature so i had stopped using it, so i decided to try it again today. When i was pumping it, i noticed the fuel squirting out of the tank cap through a hole in it, and the tank wouldnt hold pressure. I havent had this problem before. There are no cracks in the tank, and the problem is definetly the hole in the cap. Im pretty sure its supposed to be there, its drilled and looks original, my question is, is there any way to plug it up to hold pressure, is the hole even supposed to be there, or is there just something wrong with it?

[craig_pickrall]

I'm not sure which model you have and what fuel it uses but if it is Coleman Fuel or white gas then it needs pressure to run. The cap and gasket hold that pressure. Both cap and gasket are sold as replacements. You can usually find the cap at Wal-Mart or sporting good stores but you may have to get the gasket from a Coleman store or online.

[B.A.R.gunner]

I'm not sure which model you have and what fuel it uses but if it is Coleman Fuel or white gas then it needs pressure to run. The cap and gasket hold that pressure. Both cap and gasket are sold as replacements. You can usually find the cap at Wal-Mart or sporting good stores but you may have to get the gasket from a Coleman store or online.

wow, they really sell replacement caps for this stove at walmart, ill have to check that out....

I'm not sure which model you have and what fuel it uses

its the coleman model 520 a46 pocket stove, civillian model of the gi pocket stove, and i use kerosene

[craig_pickrall]

I don't know if they have your particular cap but they do have atleast one model of the pressure cap. These parts are available from Coleman for just about anything they make.

 

The only gas item I have is a latern and it uses a cork gasket. Everything else I have uses propane and that is a lot easier and neater.

[Old Sarge]

I had to replace the seal in mine for the same reason. They have a two piece cap. The cap should have a flathead screw sticking out of the top. When you take it loose, the inside piece should fall out. Carefully remove what is left of the old leather seal. It is cupped so an O-ring works good in it. Take the the inside piece to the parts house and find a rubber O-ring to fit it. That took care of it on mine. I would not use kerosene in it. Coleman fuel or unleaded gas should have it working fine.

[carbinekid]

Sounds like you need to oil the pump and the leather gasket in the cap. The pump has a leather cup that will get dry and needs routine oiling to maintain a seal. The cap also has a screw at the center top, once screwed the cap is on try tightening that screw. That's how I got mine going and it runs and runs. hope that helps.

 

 

kyle

[DesertRatTom]

Before replacing the cap or taking it apart (an easy way to destroy something that can be replaced with a modern part, but removes collector value) just take some CLP or WD40 and 'soak' the whole assembly down, try to get the media used to pool above and below the moving part. Lrt the media 'soak in' for about 5 mins, shake off the excess, and let it sit for another 10-15 mins to soak in. After that give it a try on the stove, should work pretty well; if not repeat the process again. BTW, pump issues and other gasket issues can be treated the same way. Take your time as you're addressong 50+ years of neglect.

 

Tom

[AustinO]

I got to play with one of these at work today, boss brought it in to show me (was bummed it was dated 47!) I would follow Tom's suggestions, as his approach seems very sound (and affordable!)

[Old Sarge]

A few comments on some of the recently posted advice. Not trying to contradict or offend anyone, just my opinion for what its worth. I have owned several of the the "GI Pocket Stoves" and currently have a mint A 47 complete with all the bells and whistles to include the original owners manual.

 

1. The cap and pump are separate.

2. The hole in the cap, being on the side of the cap, is actually a vent, to release pressure and vent it away from your face when you unscrew the cap. If you are pumping up the pressure and fuel is coming out of the vent, the leather seal is most likely gone, dry rotted.

3. The cap comes apart to facilitate the replacement of the seal, which is a leather gasket, as well as allowing the released pressure to flow through the cap to the vent hole. The inside piece is brass and should pose no problem, i.e. rust. I have never had one give me any trouble taking it apart.

4. Be careful because fuel is squirting out of the cap, after all if it should start to "squirt" while lit, well, there is potential for a serious problem. If I were going to use it, which from what I understood from your question you were, I would either replace the cap or the seal. Craig is right, Coleman does sell a replacement cap that fits perfectly and doesn't cost that much. The 520/530 uses the same cap as the 400 series, 508B, 550B and Sportster II. When you get through using it, put the original cap back on. I spent 50 cents on a seal and mine works great and is safe to use. Looking at it, no one can tell the difference. Either way don't take the chance of injuring yourself.

 

Best Of Luck, Ron.

[DesertRatTom]

Ron makes some excellent points, I own a dozen of these fine stoves and variants from WWII to Vietnam, and use two of them on a regular basis.

 

These stoves, and lanterns are/were intended to be GI Proof, but have the capacity to be field repaired as they contain a separate screw cap topped tube that has the necessary parts- gaskets, 'O' rings, cupped washers, etc. If you stumble across these part kits- snag 'em, they are cheap at flea markets, and can save you a lot of time salvaging or improvising the part while camping. If you find some intact in the paper envelope- unopened and $5 or less, but don't have the single burner stove snag 'em- I'm always looking for spares.

 

Field expedient repairs I've successfully used (hate tapping into the repair kit unless necessary) is a drop or 3 motor oil fresh from the dip stick, to the fuel filler gasket and cupped washer on the pump. Matchbook cover makes a quick 'cup washer' when dampened with oil- if you have to use fuel only use Coleman Brand as it 'cooks off' into air without leaving ignitable residue. If you have to take the fuel filler cap apart- do it carefully otherwise you'll destroy any collector value of the stove by screwing up the the screw. BTW, its an odd pitch thread that is hard to match up.

 

Re: #4 in Ron's reply, if slowly oiling the gasket doesn't work, and the parts kit doesn't have a spare, get a modern replacement cap for use & keep the original for stove value. If your faith in your own ability to make an expedient repair allows you to, then have at it. You know your skill level and only you can make the judgment call on improvised repair materials.

 

I'll fall off my soap box now.

 

Tom

[Old Sarge]

Tom, Well said!

 

 

Here is a pic of the ones that I have that are the most presentable. I have a lot of "work in progress" and "parts" ones. I am currently working on a steel tank M1941 that has the steel case with it. Once upon a time at the Armory when we were cleaning out an old Quonset Hut at the back of the motor pool, some one found a box full of unopened Army issue Coleman lanterns, all dated from the 50's. As luck would have it, I had just left with a 5 gallon can full of rifle solvent. They went quick! I did manage to secure a good complete Yukon stove out of it though. The Model 500 just to the left of the center is my favorite. I inherited it from my Grandfather. It has "31st Div G-2" stenciled on the bottom of it. Since he was a machine gunner in a heavy weapons platoon I wonder how he came by it???

 

Ron

[DesertRatTom]

Tom, Well said!

Here is a pic of the ones that I have that are the most presentable. I have a lot of "work in progress" and "parts" ones. I am currently working on a steel tank M1941 that has the steel case with it. Once upon a time at the Armory when we were cleaning out an old Quonset Hut at the back of the motor pool, some one found a box full of unopened Army issue Coleman lanterns, all dated from the 50's. As luck would have it, I had just left with a 5 gallon can full of rifle solvent. They went quick! I did manage to secure a good complete Yukon stove out of it though. The Model 500 just to the left of the center is my favorite. I inherited it from my Grandfather. It has "31st Div G-2" stenciled on the bottom of it. Since he was a machine gunner in a heavy weapons platoon I wonder how he came by it???

 

Ron

 

WOW! Looks like the back room of my favorite surplus store! lots of good parts when I needed them & didn't have the traditional Gold Plate of most things rare or needed, also where my Fidder Mentor worked.

 

I suspect your Grandfather came by the stove the way most guys did- the legendary Poker Game or a good 'trade' that happened at the right time. It's a shame we have all the questions & perspective when its too late. BTW, did the Yukon 'come' with the wood/coal burning rack?

 

Take care, keep fidding- that's quite the collection!

[Old Sarge]

Thanks, I assume the Yukon had the rack, the guy I traded it to dug all the parts out of it and said it was complete. I wish I had kept it, but at the time he had some goodies I really wanted. Our unit had been called up for the Korean War so there were a lot of items from that era tucked away. Yeah, Grandpa has been gone a little over a year now and I can't tell you the questions I wished I had asked him. He did tell me about how he and his buddies went on a patrol on New Guinea and came upon a village. They bartered for some live chickens and on the way back found a starving Japanese soldier. The officers were pleased with their 'capture', but unfortunately they gave him all the food he could eat and died shortly afterward. They gambled for ownership of the chickens and Grandpa won. He saved the eggs and he and his best friend would cook them in a messkit in their pup tent. later on he let one of the hens hatch some of the eggs. He said the city boys couldn't believe it and would stand and watch the chicks for long periods of time, they were amazed!

[DesertRatTom]

Thanks, I assume the Yukon had the rack, the guy I traded it to dug all the parts out of it and said it was complete. I wish I had kept it, but at the time he had some goodies I really wanted. Our unit had been called up for the Korean War so there were a lot of items from that era tucked away. Yeah, Grandpa has been gone a little over a year now and I can't tell you the questions I wished I had asked him. He did tell me about how he and his buddies went on a patrol on New Guinea and came upon a village. They bartered for some live chickens and on the way back found a starving Japanese soldier. The officers were pleased with their 'capture', but unfortunately they gave him all the food he could eat and died shortly afterward. They gambled for ownership of the chickens and Grandpa won. He saved the eggs and he and his best friend would cook them in a messkit in their pup tent. later on he let one of the hens hatch some of the eggs. He said the city boys couldn't believe it and would stand and watch the chicks for long periods of time, they were amazed!

 

"Quietly coooking eggs' must have been quite a challenge, given the lean rations and numbers of hungry folks nearby.

 

There are still Yukon Stoves too had here- I don't think the surplus store sold out yet, but the shipping would probably double the price.

 

Tom

[Longbranch]

I have one of these (a 1945 dated Coleman M-1941) I've been trying to get running. However, I need a replacement fuel cap insert. This is the brass section that the seal goes into, which screws into the underside of the fuel cap. Anyone have some parts sitting around they don't need?

[Keith]

There was some comments about softening the seals in the pump or cap to get it working again. I have not used this in a stove, but Crosman Pellet Guns sells a product called "Pellgunoil" and it is designed for "CO2, gas and air gun seals, moving parts and pump actions". I used this to bring back to life the pump seal on a pellet gun and it worked great. I see no reason this product couldn't be used on any pump seal. I bought mine at the Bass Pro Shop. Regards

[DesertRatTom]

Keith,

 

Coleman makes this as a part or finished unit in Coleman Green. While taking it apart to repair, remember you've got almost 70 years 'crud' between the threads of both parts, plus what ever dis-similar metal reactions have taken place. You might get lucky and the screw will back out easily, but most likely the screw top will be mangled.

 

Give the penetrating oils, oils and 'dry' lubes a shot, as long as there is rubber left. Give them a chance to 'work in' as you're not going to undo 70 years of drying out over night. Check the 'spare parts' tube, you may get lucky and the part will still be there.

 

Good luck with this.

 

Tom