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Reoving Rust


SA1794
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I picked-up a 1918 SA bayonet today. The bayonet is solid, except for some rusting. Any ecomendations for removing the rust would be appreciated.

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First of all, many if not most collectors would say DON'T TOUCH IT! Having said that, is there any original finish left on the blade? If so, then about all you can do is use some light oil and 000 steel wool and gently dress down the offending area. Don't be too aggressive, just smooth down the rust a little. This will leave some dark areas, but it's better than rust. If there is no finish and the blade has been sharpened a lot, then you have much more latitude as to how much "restoration" you wish to perform. What I mean by that is if, for example, your bayonet is a total embarassment and only worth 10% of what a good acceptable bayonet is worth, then you really can't hurt it by working on it. Light to medium rust, or even heavy rust can be removed with a rust remover like Naval Jelly. Use steel wool and then (Don't tell anybody I said this) use a little cold blue available at any sporting goods store and lightly coat the blade to gray it down a little so it's not so shiney. Again, don't do this to a reasonable bayonet. Less is better. Hope this helps. If you have any pictures, that would give us a better way to judge your particular bayonet.

Marv

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I like WD40, either sprayed on the bayonet directly, or sprayed into a rag. Maybe a light rub w/ 0000 steel wool, or green scrath pad. "Do no harm!" SKIP

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I like WD40, either sprayed on the bayonet directly, or sprayed into a rag. Maybe a light rub w/ 0000 steel wool, or green scrath pad. "Do no harm!" SKIP

I find Militec very good.

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Soak the blade in Oxalic acid for 24 hours as that will remove all rust. Just make sure you don't get the handle in the solution.

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As silly as it sounds, use a number 2 graphite pencil. The graphite is gentle, but will remove some rust and give the blade a blue metal look.

I've done that!! (I heard about it on this forum, probably from you) It works especially well for small areas. I used the pencil, then used the eraser to remove the pencil, then used the pencil again. It's only temporary, but it looks pretty good.

Marv

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I too have used pencil w/ eraser. Does work well, also helps in locating and highlighting stampings on metal and wood. SKIP

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I've used WHINK rust remover and a q-tip on small spot before.

 

I have a MK2 USMC Camillus that had some light pitting and someone tried to buff it out and the blade was chrome shiny. ($10 at a yard sale)

 

I dipped the blade in WHINK for 5 minutes and it turned the blade gray. Almost looks parkerized.

 

I found out this after affect from soaking some of the CMP Bad Carbine oilers. They all came out gray.

 

Strong stuff so go easy.

 

Pics Please!

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I use Break Free "CLP" and a green Scotchbrite or similar pad. The pad is firm enough to work the rust away, but gentle enough not to mark the blade or do too much damage to any remaining finish. Break Free is the standard military Cleaner/Protectant/Lubricant (hence CLP) used to clean and oil most small arms and metal equipment. I just removed a bit of rust from some Carbine magazines... leaving the surface smooth and rust free. You can get breakfree in different sized bottles and spray cans. I still have a small bottle I obtained from when I was in the army, and just refill it from larger, commercially available bottles and spray cans (the latter is kind of messy... take care if you do it that way).

 

Wayne

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