cmjordan77 Posted February 25, 2010 Share #1 Posted February 25, 2010 Hi, I bought a can of WW2 Boot dubbin, Mold prevention type (Not the Vesicant protectant Type). Is it safe to still use this? I know on AT THE FRONTS Website it says to actually use WW2 boot dubbin. I have a pair of REPRO' s from AT THE FRONT and I wanted to find out if this stuff is still okay to use. Can someone let me know? Has anyone tried this? Could it ruin my boots? My boots are the M-43 KNAPP/NUBUCK "Rough outs". I just done want to ruin them. Many Thanks to all !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garandman114 Posted February 25, 2010 Share #2 Posted February 25, 2010 Hi,I bought a can of WW2 Boot dubbin, Mold prevention type (Not the Vesicant protectant Type). Is it safe to still use this? I know on AT THE FRONTS Website it says to actually use WW2 boot dubbin. I have a pair of REPRO' s from AT THE FRONT and I wanted to find out if this stuff is still okay to use. Can someone let me know? Has anyone tried this? Could it ruin my boots? My boots are the M-43 KNAPP/NUBUCK "Rough outs". I just done want to ruin them. Many Thanks to all !! I can't say for sure on that, but I treated mine with modern "Sno Seal" and it created a pretty authentic finish on my roughouts. I would probably steer away from it but then again I have never tried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmjordan77 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted February 25, 2010 Here is the Post ATF has listed. And actually this is listed for the Rough out boots. The comments from their site are in ITALICS below. He mentions SNOSEAL, MINK OIL and DUBBIN. I have MINK OIL, but never used it on my boots. I did get a can of dubbin just for this, but again, I was kinda afraid to ruin my boots. I am curious if any member out there has any photos of their Rough outs treated just with Dubbin. I guess it cant be too bad as alot of boots survived nicely up through now, but who knows. *We have had several people fuss because there is no "reinforcement" in the toe. Sorry to inform you, that that's how the originals were made. A toe cap (internal or external) is wrong. Go check some originals if you think I'm lying. Treatment: We recommend that all of our boots be treated with dubbing, Snoseal, mink oil or similar product before field use. Original dubbing is still available on ebay or some surplus stores. A 4 oz. can runs $4-$8 at last check. Fit: These are patterned from an original WWII Boot which run a half size larger than modern ones. Thus, if you wear a half size, order down, not up. For example, if you wear a 10.5, order a 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoadedColt45 Posted February 26, 2010 Share #4 Posted February 26, 2010 It's a petrolium based product if I remember correctly so as long as it's not dried out (it sometimes can turn into a very thick gel) original dubbing should be just fine to use. I know many reenactors who only use original dubbing on thier own reproduction boots. Works great and looks good too. I wouldn't worry about it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkdriver Posted February 26, 2010 Share #5 Posted February 26, 2010 I think we had a thread on this once before and the consensus was NOT to use it because the petroleum base ate the stitching and over time, would cause the seams to fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpguy80/08 Posted February 27, 2010 Share #6 Posted February 27, 2010 I just worked over my new ATF 43 double buckles... check here for pictures: http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...showtopic=67509 I put on a coat of Kiwi Wet Pruf, let it dry for 24 hours, then put on one coat of brown Kiwi polish... the final pictures you see are the finished product. One coat each, hand applied and rubbed with a remnant of an army brown Tshirt. I can't remember where I saw it, but I've read somewhere that the WWII dubbing is bad for the boots for the reasons described... it works over the stitching, causing premature failure of the stitches. Whatever you use, good luck. Let us see pictures! Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doyler Posted February 27, 2010 Share #7 Posted February 27, 2010 Any product containing petroleum will be harmful to the stitching.This is why neetsfoot oil and similiar products are not advised to use.I wouldnt sweat it to much how they look,dont over think this.All sound advice given by the members who re-enact.The continued use,application and wearing of the boots combined with water and mud will define the out come of the look of your boots RD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt Saunders Posted February 27, 2010 Share #8 Posted February 27, 2010 I use Pickard on both pairs of mine. Just wear them and they will come in to it. I wear mine around all the time on weekends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Bibliotecario Posted February 28, 2010 Share #9 Posted February 28, 2010 Having read the posts, I can't find anyone who's acually used dubbing--except me. Back when cars had tail fins, boys had ducktails, and surplus stores had stuff that today is being reproduced, I bought a can of dubbing for four bits and used it on a pair of worn out hand-me-down hunting boots. I was 17, planned to go into the army, and knowing Sam would provide me with quality boots, I didnt want to spring for new footgear. My beater boots stayed pliable and 'sort of' waterproof' for the better part of a year, and they didnt fall apart. I'm not necessaily recommending it, just reporting my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now