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Tips for preserving wood?


mrhell
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Did a search but I didn't find anything regarding the preservation of wood.

 

In my case it is for a WWII T-handled shovel. A great example with honest wear and hints of original paint. While the shovels shaft seems fine, the small T-handle section appears quite dry.

 

Other than basic wood/furniture oil, what is recommended to preserve and protect this wood without staining the color permanently?

 

Thank you in advance. :thumbsup:

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Micro crystalline wax, is usually better than a petroleum-based liquid preservative which.

 

Cannot help but change (aka restore) the wood color somewhat, however.

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This may be a case of "If it ain't broke, don't break it." Usually the problem with wood is too much moisture and if you keep his in an area where there are no extremes of humidity or direct sunlight there should be no need to put anything on it. Here's some basic tips:

 

 

Under normal storage conditions, the biggest enemy of wood is humidity.

 

Too much can cause your piece to decay, while too little can dry it out and crack.

 

The ideal humidity level for storing wood artifacts is between 25% and 65%. If you live in a particularly humid location, consider using a dehumidifier in your storage room.

 

Ensure that your piece has plenty of air circulation and regularly inspect for signs of mold growth and insect infestation.

 

 

Sunlight can cause your wood item’s finish to yellow or decay.

 

Avoid storing wooden pieces in areas that receive direct sunlight.

 

Bright room lights can also have a negative effect on wood finishes. Also avoid storing wood artifacts against exterior walls, which are prone to extremes of light, temperature and humidity.

 

Wood is fairly stable, but should not be exposed to extreme temperature variations.

 

Heat and cold can cause wood pieces to expand and contract, eventually causing cracking or other damage.

 

Avoid storing wood artifacts in basements or garages that are not climate-controlled. Also be sure to keep your pieces away from fireplaces and other heat sources that could cause them to ignite.

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I have used Howards Feed N' Wax on gunstocks, it's highly recommended on a lot of the gun forums, and I gave it a try. Great stuff, on gun stocks it doesn't make that much of a difference (if any at all) on the color of the wood, on bare wood it may darken it slightly. Do some research on the gun forums.... Chris...

 

That said, be careful how you approach any preservation or restoration work, more harm can be done than good if you're not careful.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes Forum Support, this is exactly my concern. I'm just worried the handle will turn into balsa wood strength and break off. Thank you for the advice and to the others who replied.

 

The bulk of my collection has been stored in old pharmaceutical drums that were originally used for empty medicine capsules waiting to be filled. My Grandfather brought home many of these from his work years ago and I have found them to be an excellent way to store items. Plus my storage room averages around 65-70% humidity consistently.

 

:thumbsup:

 

 

This may be a case of "If it ain't broke, don't break it." Usually the problem with wood is too much moisture and if you keep his in an area where there are no extremes of humidity or direct sunlight there should be no need to put anything on it. Here's some basic tips:

Under normal storage conditions, the biggest enemy of wood is humidity.

 

Too much can cause your piece to decay, while too little can dry it out and crack.

 

The ideal humidity level for storing wood artifacts is between 25% and 65%. If you live in a particularly humid location, consider using a dehumidifier in your storage room.

 

Ensure that your piece has plenty of air circulation and regularly inspect for signs of mold growth and insect infestation.

Sunlight can cause your wood item’s finish to yellow or decay.

 

Avoid storing wooden pieces in areas that receive direct sunlight.

 

Bright room lights can also have a negative effect on wood finishes. Also avoid storing wood artifacts against exterior walls, which are prone to extremes of light, temperature and humidity.

 

Wood is fairly stable, but should not be exposed to extreme temperature variations.

 

Heat and cold can cause wood pieces to expand and contract, eventually causing cracking or other damage.

 

Avoid storing wood artifacts in basements or garages that are not climate-controlled. Also be sure to keep your pieces away from fireplaces and other heat sources that could cause them to ignite.

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Tom @ Snake River

If you like the color and the way the handle is right now, a good wood paste wax would work.

But for what I call "working wood" pioneer tool handles ect, that my get used and handled, a use a good treatment of linseed oil, and reappy about every other year.

The linseed oil will change the color of the wood, but does bring out the beauty of the wood grain and color.

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88thcollector

Hi,

 

After decades in the antique furniture business: leave it alone (for the most part). If anything, use a good beeswax furniture. Wax is always reversible as it just sits on the surface. The dry look should not hurt anything, however.

 

 

AVOID anything with oil, including linseed oil. No type of oil ever. Oil will put a sheen on the surface but over years will raise the grain and darken the surface until it is a dull gray. Linseed and tung oil will penetrate a bit and harden but are bad for wood in the long run. There is a reason why museums and conservators don't oil wood. If there is any old finish on it, the oil will really make a mess.

 

AVOID any product with FEED in the name or instructions. The wood is dead, it ain't eating nothing. These products are not going to penetrate into the wood. They will make a temporary shine.

 

AVOID silicone (in lots of furniture sprays). Nothing is worse than silicone.

 

Also, remember, if it penetrates wood, it will probably penetrate your skin and head for your liver, so wear gloves if you use oil.

 

linkage:

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Collectibles-Ge...-chifforobe.htm

 

http://www.furniturecaretips.com/antique-furniture.htm

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88thcollector

hi again. linseed oil is not the end of the world for a shovel handle if you decide to use it but be sure to get boiled linseed oil. The unboiled was once used on gun stocks but there is no reason to repeat old mistakes.

 

Linseed oil soaked rags will combust spontaneously, especially when left in a damp spot. Use some steel wool with sweaty hands and toss it in the trash can on top of the oily rags and see what happens. Been there, the fire department wasn't amused at all.

 

Steve

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Tom @ Snake River

I am useing linseed oil, usually thined with terpintine or paint upon the recomendation of one of the top conservetors and restorers of horse drawn wagons and stage coaches that works for the Cody Wyo Museum and the Museum in West Yellowstone Montana. He restores and is the top expert on horse drawn coaches in the early days of Yellowstone Park.

 

I am one of the 10 trustees on the Idaho Heritage Trust Foundation, and get to rub elbows with the best in the pacific north west. The other expert that I deal with is an expert on buildings and is a true believer in paint. Due to its heavy pigment to protect wood from ultra violet, he cringes when I suggest a stain or oiling the side of a barn.

 

The other expert is Joe Talose who is the conservator for the Idaho State Historical Museum, and of course he is a minimalist. Less is better. But too, if you are the State Museum, you usually have the best artifacts to begin with. The rest of us usually end up collecting items that are less than perfect.

 

As a collector,

My rule of thumb is: if you do anything to an artifact, does it in the long run enhance it's value.

if you do anything to an artifact, when an expert looks at it 20 or 30 years down the road, and say, "that guy really screwed this up 30 years ago, or it was good that something was done to help preserve this item 30 years ago.

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88thcollector

hi,

 

linseed oil does seem to be used for outdoor stuff. i guess a shovel is in between. Most conservators I deal with use the "only do reversible treatments" as later philosophies may differ. I know that the hull of the CSS Neuse was treated with huge amounts of linseed oil/ mineral spirits as an affordable technique.

 

As for the shovel, probably best to leave it alone. There will never be a shortage of messed with militaria and the pure stuff just gets rarer.

 

Steve

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Tom @ Snake River

I think that this conversation boils down to - it depends what you are working on, what elements that the wood has been and will be exposed to in the future.

 

Is it fine furniture that you what to preserve and enhance its look ? ?

 

Is it a artifact that needs to be protected and preserved for history, where a minimalist approach is taken ? ?

 

Is it a larger artifact built out of boards and lumber that has endured weather in the past, and may be housed indoors the rest of it life ? ?

 

Is it a building or wood in an artifact that may be left outside, ( example, the local armoury has a WWI cannon with wooden wagon wheels sitting outside on display year round )

 

Each treatment, from wax, to oils, to paint, has its place and should be taken into consideration depending on the circumstances.

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I'm familiar with BLO and don't think I want to use it on this particular shovel. It will certainly change the color of the wood and I'd rather keep the appearance the same. I'm just trying to find the best way to keep the handle from getting overly brittle. It's been dry for years now, but I'm just trying to keep it nice.

 

Here's the item in question, although not the best picture. I love the look of this shovel. Thank you to all who are trying to help. :thumbsup:

 

shovel.jpg

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88thcollector
I'm familiar with BLO and don't think I want to use it on this particular shovel. It will certainly change the color of the wood and I'd rather keep the appearance the same. I'm just trying to find the best way to keep the handle from getting overly brittle. It's been dry for years now, but I'm just trying to keep it nice.

 

Here's the item in question, although not the best picture. I love the look of this shovel. Thank you to all who are trying to help. :thumbsup:

 

shovel.jpg

 

 

if it ain't broke, don't rub anything on it or whatever the saying is. it looks great, seems to be at equilibrium with its environment. I don't know of anything that will not alter it. People use Renaissance Wax on art and coins but it will always change it.

Also, most treatments have to be reapplied every few years.

 

If left alone and kept at a rational humidity, it will be around to dig all of our graves.

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Interesting topic I have an escavated m1917 trench knife where the metal is extremely fragile but very much in tact. I was thinking Naval jelly? Has done well in museum displays of dug metal relics, turns it to a neutral primer, but what about Wood that has been escavated and how much will one chemical on one surface affect the other? Any suggestions?

-Kevin

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Interesting topic I have an escavated m1917 trench knife where the metal is extremely fragile but very much in tact. I was thinking Naval jelly? Has done well in museum displays of dug metal relics, turns it to a neutral primer, but what about Wood that has been escavated and how much will one chemical on one surface affect the other? Any suggestions?

-Kevin

 

Electrolytic rust removal might work for you.

 

The Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid based and might not give you the results you'd like besides possibly damaging the wood and being wicked stuff to use. You might want to Google it and read the MSDS for some safety issues ( Naval Jelly MSDS ).

 

I haven't personally used the electrolytic rust removal technique, but it looks pretty interesting. I haven't found a project yet to use it on, but the next major rust problem that I have (where other finish, such as paint, bluing, or park is not an issue), I intend to give it a try.

 

Here's a link for a do-it-yourself project: Electrolytic Rust Removal

 

If you try it, please post your results.

 

HTH,

Mike

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Tom @ Snake River

Of course the subject is what to do with metal artifacts and items that have been dug up after many years of sitting in the dirt, ect.

First of all you have to access the item as to it's historic value. Possibly the must historic item that I have seen dug up was a flint lock mechanism off of a indian trade rifle.

It belonged to the state museum and likewise they did very little to it other than brush it off.

The best thing that my dad and I dug up was a 38-55 Model 94 Winchester rifle. Of course it was all rusty and the wood had rotted away. In this case and other firearms that have been found locally we lightly sand blasted them. But by useing this extreme measure, must times the serial #'s were discovered which gives a wealth of information, Also any damage that may have occured to the firearm before it was lost. My friend had a revolver where one of the chambers was actually dented in.

 

Out on the farm we are always digging up old wrenches. I have a tumbler full of ball bearings, which I fill with cleaning solvent and tumble. The electroysis would also be a good method to remove the rust. After the rust is off, I usually spray paint with a clear enamel or acrylic to keep it from rerusting.

 

But basically the items are yours to do with as you wish. however, I would say any grinding, heavy wirebrushing, fileing is a definate no-no.

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Tom @ Snake River

Now on the subject of wood that has been dug up or badly weathered, I do not have much of an opinion as here in Idaho everything is soft wood pine and usually rots in 50 years or so. Hardwoods would be a more likely candidate to survive years of moisture and basic or acidic soils.

I would say it would be hard to do anything more than compressed air to clean up any weathered wood. The project would have to be evaluated on a case by case basis.

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