Garand stock treatment help

[historylives]

i hear that LINSEED OIL is good for wood stocks-- true or false?? if true boiled or just linseed and how do you apply it?? thank you

[robinb]

Boiled. Raw doesn't dry. I just wipe it on with a rag or even just my bare hands. Let it sit a day then wipe dry.

[Charlie Flick]

And if you use rags to apply make certain that the rags are properly disposed of.  Rags soaked in linseed oil can spontaneously ignite causing a fire. 

 

I have personal knowledge of such a fire occurring at a local establishment.  It cost the owner over $2,000,000 in property damage after a careless worker failed to properly dispose of used rags.  No joke.

 

Regards,

Charlie

[historylives]

thank you for the info. wasn't sure which one to use.

 

[DogDoc]

For what it’s worth, everything said is true. However, WWII stocks were soaked in raw linseed oil. 

[The Rooster]

On 5/27/2026 at 9:02 PM, historylives said:

i hear that LINSEED OIL is good for wood stocks-- true or false?? if true boiled or just linseed and how do you apply it?? thank you

Here is how mine turned out.

Nothing but boiled Linseed oil.

It really changes the appearance of the wood. 

Works great!

[thorin6]

I've used Tung oil with good effect.

[Matt_X]

Raw linseed oil was the early Field Manuals.  Later specs seem to vary a bit.

FM23-5 (1940)

 

Change 2

 

p.88 1951

Whatever doesn't soak in was to be removed.  It's was not supposed to dry on the surface.   Its supposed to soak in. An oil left on the surface can create a tacky sticky mess - especially boiled linseed oil.

In some places it has been stated the fresh raw linseed oil will help lift dirt and soiling off.   However I think the main reason was the goal was to have matte finish, and as mentioned the raw linseed oil soaks in deepest.

 

Boiled linseed oil, Tung oil and similar can be used to build up a finish - like a varnish.  If there is a finish coat on the surface of the stock, whether it has been built up with drying oils, or applied as a varnish or similar, nothing is going to soak in.

 

 

Some people are super adamant about which one to use.  But I think as long as you understand what the differences are, and take into consideration what has already been done to the wood, you can make an edumacated choice.

I think what Sarge is trying to say here is that we don't want a sticky film on the surface. 

That's from PM Monthly if you didn't recognize it.

[thorin6]

A couple of things to add.

When I've used Tung Oil, I first strip the wood of any finish or previous surface applications.

When disposing of rags with the oil on them, I put them in a zip lock bag, add some water, seal the bag, and dispose of it.  You need to be careful.

[mrrm]

BLO and mineral spirits mixed at a 50%-50% rate and applied sparingly, excess removed with cheese cloth has given me excellent results. When done properly I have never had any "sticky" residue remaining on the wood. Again, apply sparingly, it is much easier to apply additional light coats if needed or desired.  Cheese cloth with your choice of oil/cleaner is also very good for cleaning old filthy, grungy stocks.  I always add the lightest/small amounts of whichever oil/cleaner I am using onto the cheese cloth. But I am the same when painting be it exterior or interior, multiple lights coats to avoid a mess. 

 

And as mentioned above, treat the cheese cloth as any other rag and dispose of properly.