Lord & Taylor Bullion and Metal combination wing patterns

[rathbonemuseum.com]

I am starting a new series of identification of a really cool wing pattern and I am also seeking help from the community.

 

The pattern in question is a US made bullion wing on gabardine elastique material or khaki wool. The interesting feature is that the central device is struck out of sterling silver and then stitched in place at the center of the bullion wing. Also cool is that some of the central devices have a faux high polish that over the years has patinated to look almost like mother of pearl. 

 

There are at least two different embroidery styles. The most prevalent type is all silver bullion. The less common has the feathers outlined with black thread. Note that some have a fabric backing but most are missing it. Also, note that one of the most common ratings, that of a standard pilot, is still not found! Odd.

 

As to who these came from. As early as the Fall 1988 issue of Russ Huff's "Wings and Things" newsletter, a feature article on wing hallmarks by Mike Minnich and Clint Blanchard refers to a Lord & Taylor wing that were "silver-bullion AAF flight badges that had solid -sterling center devices." They note that the badges are not marked but they came from Lord & Taylor because "the packaging these came in did identify the company."

 

So who is Lord & Taylor? They were (RIP) one of America's most prestigious department stores out of NYC. As such they were a leader in defining American style. They were not a manufacturer certainly. But given how rare these badges are and how unique they are in combining two different elements, I would say they were special to Lord & Taylor and the design was specified by them, regardless of the embroidery company they contracted with to make them.

 

Thanks to the collecting efforts of Doug Brown of Kezar Falls Curiosity Shop (http://kezarfallscuriosityshop.com/), I am able to provide a more complete picture of these badges because, as I said, they are hard to find! 

 

Also of note, our colleague John F (@B-17 guy), wrote a little article on these in the Trading Post. 

 

Now here is where I am asking for help. I have never seen one of these wings in the package. I would love to connect the photographic proof to solidify the attribution. Please do send me an image if you find it!

 

[rathbonemuseum.com]

Now onto more detail. The first series is wings on chocolate gabardine in the more common style.

[rathbonemuseum.com]

Now the series that is on khaki. 

[rathbonemuseum.com]

And now the other embroidery style. Picked out in black embroidery thread. And the wool background is more trimmed to shape and the devices are different. It is unclear if the USN navigator is from the same series but does seem to have some of the same characteristics.

[manayunkman]

Love the Navy navigator.

[5thwingmarty]

I would add that the Service Pilot is the ONLY pilot type rating that I have seen in this (these) pattern(s).  It is also interesting to me that the bullion work for the S's is very different from wing to wing.

 

With the attached center device of the Navigator wings in the two patterns being completely different, I would be a bit hesitant to lump all of these into the Lord & Taylor group.  

[KurtA]

2 hours ago, rathbonemuseum.com said:

I am starting a new series of identification of a really cool wing pattern and I am also seeking help from the community.

 

The pattern in question is a US made bullion wing on gabardine elastique material or khaki wool. The interesting feature is that the central device is struck out of sterling silver and then stitched in place at the center of the bullion wing. Also cool is that some of the central devices have a faux high polish that over the years has patinated to look almost like mother of pearl. 

 

There are at least two different embroidery styles. The most prevalent type is all silver bullion. The less common has the feathers outlined with black thread. Note that some have a fabric backing but most are missing it. Also, note that one of the most common ratings, that of a standard pilot, is still not found! Odd.

 

As to who these came from. As early as the Fall 1988 issue of Russ Huff's "Wings and Things" newsletter, a feature article on wing hallmarks by Mike Minnich and Clint Blanchard refers to a Lord & Taylor wing that were "silver-bullion AAF flight badges that had solid -sterling center devices." They note that the badges are not marked but they came from Lord & Taylor because "the packaging these came in did identify the company."

 

So who is Lord & Taylor? They were (RIP) one of America's most prestigious department stores out of NYC. As such they were a leader in defining American style. They were not a manufacturer certainly. But given how rare these badges are and how unique they are in combining two different elements, I would say they were special to Lord & Taylor and the design was specified by them, regardless of the embroidery company they contracted with to make them.

 

Thanks to the collecting efforts of Doug Brown of Kezar Falls Curiosity Shop (http://kezarfallscuriosityshop.com/), I am able to provide a more complete picture of these badges because, as I said, they are hard to find! 

 

Also of note, our colleague John F (@B-17 guy), wrote a little article on these in the Trading Post. 

 

Now here is where I am asking for help. I have never seen one of these wings in the package. I would love to connect the photographic proof to the connect the attribution. Please do send me an image if you find it!

Great collection you have there! 

[rathbonemuseum.com]

4 hours ago, KurtA said:

Great collection you have there! 

Not mine. Belongs to Doug Brown.

[5thwingmarty]

Here are a couple of my examples.  The shield behind the S and circle behind the bomb both appear to be silver painted leather, not solid pieces of metal.  

 

[Mark I.]

I have always appreciated this style of bullion wings and would purchase them as they came available.

 

It turns out I have seven of them, one of which appears to be in the original packaging - and that is for "N.S. Meyer".

This packaged wing is the Service Pilot wing which has a bullion "S", and what appears to be the painted leather center piece, similar to the aerial gunner and bombardier examples. The wing pattern is the same, with the alternating types of bullion in the large wing feathers so I believe it belongs with the group that were first presented in this thread.

 

I suppose Meyer could have produced the wings for L&T - or perhaps another maker made them for L&T and Meyer ?!?!

Interested in hearing the thoughts of others.

 

 

 

[Mark I.]

A close up of the Service Pilot wing that better shows the wing details.

 

[rathbonemuseum.com]

@Mark I. really appreciate your additions here to the thread and advancing the conversation. That is fantastic to get a packaged specimen and in NS Meyer packaging no less. It does not add or subtract the L&T lore necessarily as a contractor/distributor but definitely supports who was the manufacturer. So far, no real evidence for Lord & Taylor despite the attribution in print since the mid-1980s. Hopefully more will post their examples. And so far no pilots! odd!

[5thwingmarty]

I have picked up another one or two of these bullion wings.  The Navigator is on a uniform so these were actually used. 

 

The second is a Flight Instructor, and may have been intended to be used as a sleave insignia.  The bullion has about a 2" span.  To me the bullion pattern matches the more common L&T wings Tod shared.

 

[5thwingmarty]

Here is another one that looks to match the L&T pattern of bullion work, but it does not have any solid center elements.

 

[Mark I.]

An update on my collection of these wings. Added three examples on dark gabardine (one I already had tucked away in another drawer, and two new ones). The most significant addition is a pilot wing.

 

The pilot wing does not have a metal shield that one would expect in this series. However, in my opinion the wing pattern is clearly the same as the others.

 

So if I'm correct I now have the basic badges of a bomber crew on the dark cloth.