M1918a2 Help!

[USMC_COLLECTOR]

Hello, I am painting an airsoft M1918a2 rifle to bring it closer to historical accuracy. I’m doing a simulated park finish, but I am having trouble deciding on the buttstock… do I leave it the wood stock with the park finish on the rifle (which I am unsure about since most would be blued with wood but I have no way to replicate the blued look) or make the black plastic stock? What do you guys think?

I came across this 90th article and I’m left more confused… would wood ever be used with parkerization?

http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARStocks/index.html

 

And this is the color of my gun and the stock now… black junk metal and wood. Any help appreciated!

[m1903]

Try this,  spray the parts matte black, the spray a transparent blue, like a candy apple ,over it.  It works for models but I've never tried it on a full size gun.  I would experiment on a scrap first

[USMC_COLLECTOR]

Ok. Thanks for the help on the bluing. I don’t intend on using it for anything with WWI… do you happen to know what percent of BAR’s would be blued vs Parked?

11 minutes ago, m1903 said:

Try this,  spray the parts matte black, the spray a transparent blue, like a candy apple ,over it.  It works for models but I've never tried it on a full size gun.  I would experiment on a scrap first

 

[USMC_COLLECTOR]

Here’s how it ended up. Let me know what you think. 

[horsecavalry1885]

This is my airsoft BAR that I painted last summer using Brownells Alumahyde parkerizing gray paint. I wanted a brand new issued BAR which my research showed should be parkerized for WWII. This is intended as a display item in one of my WWII displays. If using the Alumahyde paint, it's important to thoroughly clean the metal parts, heat them and the paint, then once painted, keep the metal parts heated for several hours. I heated mine in the sun, painted them in the shade and placed all the parts in the sun for about 6 or more hours. This improves the curing of the epoxy type paint.