3" 1944 M62A1 "PROOF" projo

[Persian Gulf Command]

A Christmas Present to myself is this 1944 Dated 3-inch M62 A1 APC projectile. Interesting example as it is marked PROOF, so assuming it was used to establish tolerances for production of these projectiles.

 

It's a nice example but as seen in the photos there is moderate rust on the iron. 

 

Would like to hear from members with suggestions as to the best way to mitigate the rust without harming the original black paint. So far, I have read that baking Soda and water will do a good job with the rust and is easy on the paint.

[917601]

Very nice. Here is how I had treated my 3” about five years ago, it was in the same condition as yours. I was very concerned about removing the original yellow color and markings.
1) Evaporust brand rust remover. Water soluble, claims to be non toxic and harmless to anything but rust. I would first wipe down the projectile with a soft cotton cloth and dishwashing soap and warm water. Dishwashing soap supposedly leaves no film or deposits.

Go slowly and see if the water/  soap is damaging the paint. 

2) Brush on the Evaporrust on the areas that have rust and keep it wetted with the solution, time consuming, tedious keeping it wetted. I had during the process gotten tired of brushing on every five minutes and got smart and wrapped the wetted shell in plastic wrap (Siran  wrap?) Mine took about 4-5 hours. Also, make sure the shell is warm, the cold will slow down the reaction. I did mine in summertime.

 

3) Monitor the rust removal process, you can stop it anytime by rinsing off. There was a time when the heavy rust was dissolved and it was still discolored, blackish/ brownish but decided to get it to bare metal. You may want to stop it at that point as a shiney spot on the black paint will not be appealing.

 

4) When finished, rinse and dry well. I put mine out in the sun for a few hours.

 

5) Then I used a museum wax, Renaissance Wax. Comes in a white can. I use it on all my ordnance pieces. High quality artifact preservation wax used by museums. I put two coats on it, it has lasted five years so far ( no further rust on the  bright areas). 
 

That said, you can apply Renaissance Wax over rust, they say a few coats over the light rust seals it from further rusting. It may look nicer without removing all the rust. Remember, wherever the rust is, when removed it will be bare shiney metal. I would wash it in the soap/ water rinse well then three four coats.

[917601]

For interest, I will add my 3” HE is early WW2 dated ( 1941 I think), in original yellow. Notice the “ bourelet” area, it is not painted yellow, but bare metal. 

Ordnance regulations of that period stated the bourelett area was NOT to be painted, but left bare metal. It had something to do with paint not building up in the artillery tube chamber area. Not very eye appealing, but original, issued condition.

[917601]

A better pic.

[Persian Gulf Command]

R,

  Thank you for the product suggestion and instructions. I'll give it a go and show pictures of the results.

 

Also, like to show picture of the removable Ballistic Cap that screws off this PROOF projectile.  Would this be a feature only for a PROOF APC Projectile, or do all APC Caps screw on like this before they were peened in place?

 

 

[917601]

I do know the Navy 3” /50 windshield threads on.