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Automatics in use during WWII - Whose, What, and When?


stratasfan
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the US also supplied the British  with US M1911A1 pistols and also the famous Thompson sub machine gun , nicked named the "Tommy gun" used by the Limeys

 

the BRITISH COMMANDOS would also use the BALLESTER MOLINA in 45 auto for clandestine operations

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Oh, those High Standards are really different looking! I wouldn't have thought those were US, actually. More Luger shaped (from a newbie, that is! ;) ) Is there a US automatic that was consider "better"?

 

 

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Blue Nosed . . . I took some time and went through old newspapers. Here are mentions from the 1920s through to the 1980s (so it has been around a long time):

 

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On 3/31/2022 at 10:26 PM, digi-shots said:

Kevin, gun porn, huh?

Good looking .22’s

 

DC776CFC-DB86-4B40-9351-9C860C774C8D.jpeg

 

That is a beauty and the style I automatically think of for an automatic pistol. What exactly is this? Also, out of curiosity . . . how many can load in the clip?

 

 

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The Rooster
9 minutes ago, stratasfan said:

 

That is a beauty and the style I automatically think of for an automatic pistol. What exactly is this? Also, out of curiosity . . . how many can load in the clip?

 

 

That a 1911A1 .45

The magazines hold 7 rounds.

Back in the 1980;s, WW2 produced .45;s like the one above were still

the issue side arm for U.S. National Guard troops.

I was issued one as an M60 machine gunner back in the day.

The y issued gunners the M60 and .45 for back up. The assistant gunner and ammo bearer carried M16;s

 

 

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Elizabeth, the only thing I can think of in seeing the ads for “blue snub nose” is that they are referring to a “blued” gun vs a “nickel plated” gun. The “blue” was a process (either done chemically or with heat and oil) to help keep the surface corrosion free and provides a blue color finish, very dark and almost black.  The guns would still need to be lightly oiled to prevent rust.  Most commercial non-military handguns were either blued or nickeled plated.
 

US WWI handguns were “blued” even though they appear black.  The bluing  process took extra time and was not very wear resistant.  Most US WWII handguns had a matte finish (parkerized or dark oxide) even though early WWII Colts still used a bluing process before changing over to a matte finish.
 

Various companies had their own formula to obtaining a finish.  Colt was known for their “fire blue” (almost an iridescent turquoise) that they used on small parts of their guns (i.e. slide locks, triggers, etc).  Some finishes took on a mottled brownish appearance (aka case hardening, case hardened). The small parts on German Lugers have what is called a “straw” finish (a yellow-ish metallic color).  Collectors look at these fine details when evaluating a gun.
 

Over the years, with constant wear and tear, the finish is usually gone leaving the gun with little to no finish or a rust looking patina.  Some bluing actually turns a “plum” color.

 

(Note… most of the above is a generalization… there’s more bits and pieces I did not go into… but it’s a quick overview).

 

 

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5 hours ago, digi-shots said:

Elizabeth, the only thing I can think of in seeing the ads for “blue snub nose” is that they are referring to a “blued” gun vs a “nickel plated” gun. The “blue” was a process (either done chemically or with heat and oil) to help keep the surface corrosion free and provides a blue color finish, very dark and almost black.  The guns would still need to be lightly oiled to prevent rust.  Most commercial non-military handguns were either blued or nickeled plated.
 

US WWI handguns were “blued” even though they appear black.  The bluing  process took extra time and was not very wear resistant.  Most US WWII handguns had a matte finish (parkerized or dark oxide) even though early WWII Colts still used a bluing process before changing over to a matte finish.
 

Various companies had their own formula to obtaining a finish.  Colt was known for their “fire blue” (almost an iridescent turquoise) that they used on small parts of their guns (i.e. slide locks, triggers, etc).  Some finishes took on a mottled brownish appearance (aka case hardening, case hardened). The small parts on German Lugers have what is called a “straw” finish (a yellow-ish metallic color).  Collectors look at these fine details when evaluating a gun.
 

Over the years, with constant wear and tear, the finish is usually gone leaving the gun with little to no finish or a rust looking patina.  Some bluing actually turns a “plum” color.

 

(Note… most of the above is a generalization… there’s more bits and pieces I did not go into… but it’s a quick overview).

 

 

 

Oh, very informative! Was the nickel plated finish more durable? I know of blued finish for old guns, and kind of figured that that was what it was going to be. What is "parkerized"? Is thta a particular finish? I think that term sounds lightly familiar. 

 

So, if the finish is gone, do you have to replace a finish on a gun?

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Nickeled plated guns are considered more durable… the nickel finish can get scratched and over time could begin to flake off.  When it does flake it can be really ugly.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen a military gun with a nickel finish.  Maybe “parade” guns or some high ranking officer type could possibly have carried one.  Many wartime bring backs were refinished and some even given a nickeled finish.  Most militaries called for something not flashy or reflective.  
 

The more highly polished a gun is before bluing, the smoother the final result will be and will be very reflective.  In order to speed up the process during wartime, the final polishing was just about eliminated and a phosphate oxide type finish was applied (aka, parkerized). Different wartime manufacturers had a different name for the process and had a slight difference in appearance but most people refer to it as “parkerized”…. Non-reflective with good wear.

 

Once a finish is gone, you have but a few choices… leave it as it is or “refinish”.  Once the finish is removed, there is zero original finish remaining.  Some collectors would rather their wartime-horse have 10% original finish than having it refinished. It does not have to be refinished, a coat of wax will help preserve the gun and prevent future rusting.  If it’s going to be refinished, the old finish has to be removed, surface polished and a new finish applied (chrome, nickel, blued or nowadays some type of new protective finish - ceramic, etc).

 

Again, this is a quick basic answer… I left out a bunch and hopefully didn’t put in any misleading explanations.
 

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