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Overcoats Specification number?


Aurel
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Hello

I'm looking for help to find the different Specification numbers for the Overcoats.

I've some overcoats in my collection  and I would like to understand the difference. (in the eyes of the QMC) 

Best regard 

Aurélien 

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US Victory Museum

Bonjour, Aurel.

 

Although there was one earlier olive drab overcoat specification that
defined a particular article of clothing from 1905 through 1907, those
coats that saw service with the AEF can be broken down into three
visual categories which I shall list below.  One final overcoat was
produced by at least one manufacturer late in the war; however,
at the end of the Great War its contract was cancelled, and it is
unlikely any of them actually made it to Europe.


The changes within any particular group usually had to do with the
weight of the wool being used; however, within the first group the
buttons went from being rimless to rimmed.  Without getting bogged
down with subtle differences (e.g. mercerized cotton thread vs silk
thread), it's best just to group the coats using a quick visual method
of identifying them absent an intact maker's tag showing a spec. #

which is usually found on the reverse of the lining of the "skirt".

 

The cuffs are the quickest means to categorize the overcoats.

I have included specification numbers which came from the work of
USMF Jprostak.  It is unlikely that the forum's software will preserve
the formatting, so you'll have to copy it and insert leading or
following spaces to enhance its legibility.

 

The information in each row represents (1) the specification number,
(2) the date issued, (3) the item (4) the prior specification number
of the item being replaced, (5) the date of that specification's
issuance.

 

 880     1907-Jun-24     OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    762     1905-Jul-14
1051    1909-Nov-03    OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    880     1907-Jun-24
1159    1912-Jul-26      OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    1051    1909-Nov-03

 

1176    1913-Apr-10     OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    1159    1912-Jul-26
1267    1917-Aug-27    OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    1176    1913-Apr-10

 

1284    1917-Dec-04     OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    1267    1917-Aug-27

 

1355    1918-Aug-28    OD Overcoat    Repl. Spec    1284    1917-Dec-04

 

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Anyway, from spec. 880 through spec. 1159, these coats have cuffs that are
folded back.  I have seen a few with discharge chevrons indicating continued
use throughout the Great War, but whether they were used stateside only or
actually went overseas with the AEF I cannot say with any certainty.

 

 


 

Spec 1051 Overcoat 1909-11-03 1912-07-26.jpg

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Overcoats spec. 1176 and spec. 1267 can be readily identified by having an
ornamental tab sewn at the end of the sleeve in lieu of an actual cuff.

 

 


 

Spec 1176 Overcoat 1913-04-10 1917-08-27.jpg

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The coats went from full length to shorter overcoats, as well as fully lined
to being partially lined; from having detachable hoods, to not having hoods.
Most changes within a "group" were due to changes in the weight of the wool
being used.

 

One final word, although overcoat spec. 1355 was defined in Aug-1918, it did
not actually replace spec. 1284, coats conforming to spec 1284 continued to
be made after well after Aug. 1918, as I have seen many spec. labels dated
through Oct.  The only two coats conforming to spec 1355 that I have ever
seen (one of which I own) were made by the same manufacturer.  Contracts were
cancelled at war's end, making this coat quite scarce.  I've never observed one
in period photographs; they likely never went to Europe.  This coat has pocket
flaps.

AGM _01e.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello
Thanks a lot for your help.
I have several Overcoats with variants but I could not clearly identify the specification.

I noticed on my model 1176 that the tab is sewn at the edge of the sleeve, while on the model 1267, the tab is sewn a few inches from the edge

 

And the $1million question .... Where to classify this model ?! 😄

Best regards

Aurel

 

IMG_20200424_140909.jpg.787711be6241f5874cf554d1991707cf.jpg

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Bonjour, Aurel.

 

"And the $1million question .... Where to classify this model"

 

Ah, yes, the overcoat with the Mackinaw style collar.   This coat does not conform to any US military specification.

Both USMF World War 1 Nerd and I went around and around discussing this style of unlined coat.  Without definitive

proof, we came to a consensus that these were likely sourced from France.   One particular coat which was well

photographed demonstrated an ink stamp indicating its size.   The numerical font was similar to that used on a

known French manufactured item (a hat).  

 

  https://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/259629-non-spec-overcoat-w-shawl-mackinaw-collar/

 

Unfortunately, the link above got a little "muddy" when it started by discussing this type of overcoat, and then

dragged regular Mackinaws, both military and personal purchased, into the same discussion.   They are distinctly

separate items.

 

Your attached photograph shows that this type of overcoat has external hung pockets; whereas, all the US produced

olive drab overcoats from Spec. 762 (Jul. 14th, 1905) ... Spec. 1355 (Aug. 08th, 1918) have internally hung pockets. 

Both it and the spec. 1355 have pocket flaps in common.

 

As I have indicated, I have a spec. 1355 overcoat in my collection; I spent several years looking for it.  The only other

one that I have ever seen was sold by AGM (Advance Guard Militaria).    The overcoat was introduced on the same

date as spec. 1356, 1918-Aug-08, OD Wool Serv. Coat which we collectors colloquially call the "Pershing coat"   A few

days later the woolen straight leg trousers was also defined.  Both the Pershing coat and trousers appear from time

to time, but the winter coat, which had its contract cancelled at the end of the war, is as rare as a hen's tooth.

 

Your friend and fellow collector,

Mike

 

P.S.

I enjoy looking at photos from your collection.   You have an advanced collection, and mannequins on which to craft

beautiful presentations.   Please post more as time permits.

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Mike

What are the differences on the Overcoat spec 1355 ?

I've also a M1918 wool service coat Spec 1356 of Hart Schaffner.

 

Aurel

 

IMG_20211016_150607.jpg.3d0949fd9bfec584f9f72b37595101f8.jpgIMG_20211016_150236.jpg.ed8949029aa818d4d5055864a9dd5d16.jpg

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Mike,

I observed this detail on my Overcoats

On Spec 1176, the tab is sewn close to the edge , and on the Spe 1267, the tab is sewn a few inches from the edge and a seam below ( no seam on the 1176 )
Can you check this detail on your Overcoat spec. 1176 and spec. 1267 ?

 

Friendly

Aurelien

 

spec. 1176

IMG_20190109_115147.jpg.415e31659afeb9e96cb26e6baaa0de6b.jpg

 

 

Spe 1267

IMG_20190410_100327.jpg.d85b7105a2c7102621dade9627bc648e.jpgIMG_20190410_100409.jpg.a4cf9a4bfeaffae9e4e30eaa14b3819c.jpg

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