Luxenberg of NY, NY: company history

[pfrost]

Morry (sometimes Morrie or Morris) Luxenberg

Born June 1890

Died January 1968

 

Father (Samuel Luxenberg) and mother (Beatrice Luxenberg) were born Russian/Polish (likely Jewish as they spoke Yiddish). It appears that Samuel immigrated to New York around 1900 but it is less clear if Beatrice was US-born or Russian-born and if they were married here or there.  However the children all seem to have been born in NY.

 

Morris was the middle sibling with 1 older brother (Jack Luxenberg), a younger brother (Jessie Luxenberg) and two sisters (Ruth and Lucy). Interestingly in the 1910 census, John (18 years old) is listed as  working as a shipping clerk in clothing house, while Jessie eventually became a book keeper and lawyer.

 

Attended City College in NYC 1911.  Seemed to have majored in Lacrosse!

Enlisted in USN during WWI.  Served at USN Section Base 6, Brooklyn NY from 6-15-1917 until 11-11-1918.  Discharged in 1-20-1919 as Gunner Mate 1st class.

 

During the 1920’s Morris founded/ran Nat Luxenberg and Bros Inc tailor.  I find no indication that Jessie is actually the “Bro” in Nat Luxenberg & Bro but in the 1930’s census Jack Luxenberg was living at home (at 39) and working as a salesman in clothing.  The 1940’s draft card for Jack Luxenberg shows him working at Barymore Clothes. So he may be the “Bro”.  I have done only marginal research into Jack's history, but if I were a betting man, I would think that Morris and Jack were the "Luxenberg and Bros".

 

I also have no idea where “Nat” comes from—maybe  a nickname?

 

Luxenberg catered to college students through the 1920’s and 1930’s.  The advertisements were run in a number of college (e.g. Columbia and Trinity) and military schools (e.g. VMI).  A search of Nat Luxenberg and Bro results in a fair number of  hits in these year books from 1921 or so up to 1928. This is a common ad that can be found on line.

 

It appears that he would go to local hotels near the campuses to sell his wares.  It isn’t clear if he actually had a specific brick and mortar location. Although many of his ads indicate that Luxenberg was located at 841 Broadway and then sometime after 1925 moved to 37th Union Square NYC. It appears he stayed at 37th Union Square until 1941 when he moved to 458 Madison Ave.

 

 In 1924 he married Florance (Flora Silverberg) ….  and started a family (two sons, Robert and Daniel).

 

Examination of 1920’s NYC directories indicate he is a tailor, but nothing specifically mentions an interest/focus on military uniforms or the name Morry Luxenberg Civilian and Military Tailor. In fact, the earliest reference I could find using that name was in 1941.

 

In the 1930 census he is listed as working in clothes but it is 1930’s it is harder to find any of his advertisements in college or military yearbooks. Perhaps due to the Great Depression?

 

His obituary specifically mentions some increased interest in the 1930’s for suppling military uniforms to West Point cadets, including s a USMA felt hat (probably a shako) and some designs for a poplin shirt.  Again, I was unable to find any specific labels of Nat Luxenberg and Bros attached to military uniforms or hats.  From the 1968 obit.

 

The time period between 1928 and 1941 seem to be rather sparse (again likely due to the Great Depression). However, there is some evidence that he may have contracted out with JR Gaunt and Sons to produce buttons and cap badges with the name Luxenberg on them.  However, it isn’t clear to me that these were being produced pre-1941, WWII, or even post WWII.  I did find a NY Times article from 1963 that SPECIFICALLY mentions that Luxenberg was selling old buttons as collector items. Still from 18928 until about 1938 the US Military was seriously understaffed and undermanned.  Its hard to imagine that there was a great demand for buttons and hat badges.  I have seen Civil war confederate navy buttons with Luxenberg hallmarks... I suspect that these buttons are the ones referenced below in an article from 1963 or so and NOT an indication of Luxenberg/JR Gaunt collaborations in the 1930's.  And certainly Luxenberg marked hat badges aren't that hard to find... again suggesting to me that these may all be WWII or post WWII (for the most part).

During the 1920’s, Nat Luxenberg and Bros seem to have been a growing and active company targeting college men.  However, during the 1930’s (Great Depression) he seems to have cut back (perhaps laying off his brother Jack, as it becomes very difficult to find any references to Nat Luxenberg and Bros during this time period. However it is reasonable to conclude that he began to develop a stronger relationship with the US Military (even if it was very small) during this time, and when WWII started, he likely had established a fair number of contacts.  There is an interesting letter (dated 1941) written by Morry Luxenberg to Gen Rumbough giving him a set of Luxenberg marked general stars.

 

In 1941 and 1942 there are stories in the NY Times about Nat Luxenberg and Bros moving to 458 Madison Ave.  Clearly his commercial enterprise started to run on full cylinders with the war starting.

It isn’t clear when Nat Luxenberg and Bros became Morry Luxenberg Civilian and Military Tailors, but it is probably something that happened around 1941-1943.

 

 

Throughout the war and up to 1968 (when he died), Morry Luxenberg was very active in supplying military uniforms (it seems that later he was focused mostly on higher ranks).  Considered to be high quality, it is pretty clear that Luxenberg didn’t actually manufacture items, but used wholesale suppliers like AE. CO, Blackinton and JR Gaunt to provide items with his hallmark on them.  We have discussed various time frames of the wings on many different threads.

 

It does appear that there are at LEAST 4 patterns.  An AECO pattern, two patterns that can be attributed to Blackinton and at least one unknown pattern.  I believe that most of the AECO pattern wings are in the pilot ratings, but I do believe that there are some other ratings marked Luxenberg in this pattern.  Of the two Blackinton patterns, one pattern only shows up in 2 and 3 inch versions of the pilot badge (and maybe the bombardier wing).  The second Blackington badge seems to show up in a variety of ratings, including Observer, Air Crew, and bombardier. 

 

I have left off showing up the badges, but please feel free to list your particular versions.

 

But it is pretty clear that Luxenberg was not a manufacturer of any insignia (likely buying them wholesale for retail sale) with special relationships with Blackinton (and perhaps later with JR Gaunt).  Also, Luxenberg's height of popularity was probably post WWII, as they were very active in US military uniform sales well into the 1960's. 

 

This raises an interesting question about the wings... we tend to draw a line in the sand and try to shoehorn the 3-4 different versions of Luxenberg marked wings into a time span between 1941 and 1945.  I suspect rather strongly that is an incorrect assumption.  For example, we know that AECO was out of business by 1948... so AECO marked Luxenberg wings probably stopped being produced realively early.  One of the Blackinton pattern of wings was/is still produced, and in fact, you can find that pattern still listed on Blackinton's website.  It is likely that some Luxenberg marked wings were being sold as late as the 1960's. 

 

Again, I think as collectors we tend to artificially draw lines in the sand an say things like early/pre war, late war patterns.  I am sure that Morris Luxenberg (especially later in his career) was willing to provide any sort of uniform/insignia to his high ranking clientele well into the Cold War.

 

So, feel free to post your wings and such.

 

P

[pfrost]

Yes, I know that the current "owner" of the Luxenberg patent is HeWhoShallNotBeNamed. 

[pfrost]

If you carefully read the article about the buttons, you will see that Morry seemed to be restriking and purposing old buttons made from the original dies--in some sense, making "museum quality reproductions" for sale to the collecting community.... Oh... the Irony!

[rathbonemuseum.com]

Another fantastic manufacturer history write up. Great information and documentation Patrick! Thank you.

[pfrost]

I found this, a link to a newsreel of riots in 1930.  Probably related to the Communist party and depression.  It could show the 821 Broadway location (up to ~1925) but if the video is really from the 1930's, then it is probably of the post 1925 37 Union Square.

https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/video/police-officer-chases-man-grabbing-him-by-the-coat-collar-news-footage/958771122

[pfrost]

I believe that this video may have been taken at the 1934 Unemployed workers protest.

 

[pfrost]

I little more research into the brothers.  I now believe that Nat Luxenberg and Bros was started in about 1921 by the three brothers, Jack, Morry and Jesse.  Jack and Morry seemed to have been working as salesmen for the company and I suspect that Jesse was the book keeper/clerk.

 

By 1940, Jack Luxenberg was living with his father in law and his wife (Anne Luxengberg nee Goldberg) and they were all involved in the clothing business.  In 1940, Morry Luxenberg dropped the "Bros" and had a number of businesses (Morry Luxenberg Caps, Morry Luxenberg Civilian and Military Tailors, etc) all located at  485 Madison Ave.  Jack seemed to have died (maybe in Florida) about the same time Morry died (in 1969) and I think Jesse lived to about 1978 or so (maybe in Santa Monica Los Angeles).  Jesse became a lawyer in the 1940's and I have a sense that he may have continued working with Morry.  Not sure about Jack.

[cwnorma]

Patrick,

 

Awesome write up.  The hidden wing-maker history (or in the case of Morry Luxemberg maybe, "wing-marker") is often quite fascinating!  

 

Thank you very much.

 

Chris

[bschwartz]

Great researching, Patrick.  Thanks for sharing.  When you have the manufacturers restriking things from the original dies in the years after the war it sure does add another layer of complexity in dating things.  This isn't like the case of the Meyer dies falling into the wrong hands but the company that actually made the originals now making new "originals" just not period originals.  What a crazy hobby we all share.

[triplecanopy]

Very fine and useful information about Luxemberg insignia and the history of the company. I wonder if other any makers supplied Luxemberg with insignia. I am particularly wondering about Officers Equipment Company and/or Hilborn and Hamburger? Also it would be helpful if collectors shared examples of wings and badges offered by Luxemberg. I'll be happy to add mine. Thanks again Patrick.

[Insigina Hunter]

Here are a few more pre-war ads

[Insigina Hunter]