2 Panel WWII Medic Helmet

[byf41]

I just pulled this out of the weeds . Looks like a no brainer to me but I dont have the knowledge level of most of you guys .  A bit on the crusty side as you can see . I was trying to estimate a serial number range or approximate date , but the heat stamp Is illegible due to oxidation and I cant tell what color the liner A washers were . It does have several stress cracks which may narrow It down some ? Question I have Is what to do about the active rust . My gut says leave It alone , but at the same time If something Isnt done Its gonna have holes In It eventually . Comments and opinions welcome , thanks guys . 

[elh1311]

Was it exposed to flame at one time? 

[Blacksmith]

Rear seam?

[byf41]

Dont know where youre seeing flame . That streak across the top of the roudel on the oxidized side looks like mold to me . Im pretty sure looking at It , It would clean off some , which goes back to my question about leaving It alone . Guess I should have mentioned Its a front seam btw . 

[Burning Hazard]

Could be 1949 through Korean War vintage.

 

Any way to see the white paint through a loupe for microcracking?

 

Pat

[ken88]

Won't comment on the period but that's an original medic's helmet for sure. 

[doyler]

7 hours ago, Blacksmith said:

Rear seam?

 

 

yes.

 

[Blacksmith]

1 hour ago, doyler said:

 

 

yes.

 

That’s what I thought, just sorta hard to see from the pics.  I’d love to hear @ccmax ‘s opinion on this one, but I’m unsure on it.

[elh1311]

Maybe just the pictures but it looks like the oxidation could be burn marks especially with the bubbling of the paint in the crosses. It could very well just be the rust that's why I was asking if it had been exposed to flame or not. I personally cannot tell. 

[byf41]

Guys Its a FRONT seam ............

[Jim McCauley]

I like it.  Could be late WWII til 50s.

[byf41]

This Is a WWII era front seam helmet . The clearly original to the helmets liner has the insignia hole and OD3 webbing . There Is no "bubbling" on the crosses I can see , I think you may be seeing the corking underneath . You dont need a loop to see the microcracking or crazing , you can see It with the naked eye If you look closely . I know Its a different story looking at pictures as compared to In hand . Given what I paid for It and the condition I dont have any doubt about Its authenticity . I know I asked for opinions and comments which leaves It wide open , but I was more concerned about what to do , or not do about the active rust . Heres a few better pictures of the rust and the paint .  

[elh1311]

Nice helmet. Not sure about the rust. 

[The Rooster]

There is a rust remover called "Whink". Its water based.

Sold in hardware stores maybe Walmart. It takes the rust off but does not affect the paint.

Then after removing the rust and drying it real good. You could spray it with a clear Matte lacquer.

[Bugme]

15 hours ago, The Rooster said:

...Then after removing the rust and drying it real good. You could spray it with a clear Matte lacquer.

 

No, no, no, no, no! After Whink, leave it alone! And, only use Whink if you are sure you know how it works because it WILL remove paint if left on too long. Remember, any modern coating such as shellac, lacquer,  enamel, WD40, petroleum products, or any other type of collector snake oil, only serves to RUIN, not help, the originality of the helmet.

[Blacksmith]

If it is original, it’s only that way once.  I wouldn’t do a thing to it.  No feather duster, no sponges, nothing but sat on a shelf.

 

 

[dmar836]

Agree to leave it be. And remember...

 

 

 

[Blacksmith]

9 minutes ago, dmar836 said:

Agree to leave it be. And remember...

 

 

 

LOL.  Are there rats in the cellar?  

[Paddyd00]

4 hours ago, Blacksmith said:

No feather duster

 

 

Germans are tough dudes

 

LOL (I Agree though)

[ccmax]

Looks like real aging from the pics. Rust coming from under the paint, blackened spots where the cork oxidized. Late WW2 or Korean War era?

[ccmax]

Would I clean it? Yes. Soft tooth brush, dish washing soap under the shower and work carefully on it just to remove the rust and bring out whatever paint underneath.

[anton67]

I personally would consider using Wink only on the really bad rust.

I would go slow and easy with it.

I used Wink once on a German helmet and it came up really well.

I agree with BUGME and I would not use any type of coating on it.

You could also just use a clean tooth brush to brush off the top layer of rust and then leave it alone.

 

I will also say that if you chose to leave it alone and do nothing, as long as you keep it in a controlled climate (50% humidity or less) it will likely NOT get any worse.