moviepropman Posted May 1, 2021 Share #1 Posted May 1, 2021 Hi all! I have just recently purchased a case V42 that has a fair bit of rust. I’ve paid a decent amount and I don’t want to ruin the damn thing! Because of the leather and metal so close I’m a little gun shy. Thoughts? Musings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted May 1, 2021 Share #2 Posted May 1, 2021 moviepropman- Does the blade have a similar coat of rust? If you please post a full length photo it could help in an assessment. THX SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy69 Posted May 1, 2021 Share #3 Posted May 1, 2021 If it’s just the pommel I’d use a q-tip with a little Kroil on it to stop the rust. Looks active still. Just a little and maybe try not to remove it or if you do some OOOO steel wool and go slow? YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne-Hunter Posted May 2, 2021 Share #4 Posted May 2, 2021 I don't know alot about knives, but isn't the pommel on these blued? Won't steel wool be bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted May 2, 2021 Share #5 Posted May 2, 2021 The rust didn't do any good for the blueing. However I'd not try any restorations on a Case V-42 myself. IMHO, this is a good time to research where to get this kind of thing done and if the cost it within my means that's how I would approach this problem. If I was going to ask here what to do I wouldn't start out with a knife like this. There are more common and cheaper examples to practice on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviepropman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share #6 Posted May 2, 2021 Here’s a photo of the whole dagger. She’s in rough shape. But it’s a serial numbered one as well. I just don’t want the rust to keep eating away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted May 2, 2021 Share #7 Posted May 2, 2021 Looking at the whole knife, I'd just settle for WD40 rubbed on the blade, careful on the pommel. Wipe it off after a short time, keep a light coat of oil on it. Don't mess with it too much. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne-Hunter Posted May 2, 2021 Share #8 Posted May 2, 2021 I'd second wd40 but don't spray it direct, apply it to a surrogate material first like a rag. I'd keep the wd40 off of the grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave T Posted May 2, 2021 Share #9 Posted May 2, 2021 Hopes #9 and then lite coat of oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBomb Posted May 2, 2021 Share #10 Posted May 2, 2021 As stated, do not allow any cleaner / oil touch the leather at all. You will never get it out. It will darken the leather. By hand tightly wrap a new rag / old t-shirt around the leather at the part where the leather meets the pommel. Then apply the oil with a q-tip. Then wipe it off and leave it alone. Same on the blade end with the leather on the guard. I vote to leave it alone after you do this. No steel wool or scrubbing materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stcroixblades Posted October 28, 2021 Share #11 Posted October 28, 2021 Some collectors would choose to remove the rust--but it's up to the person who owns the knife in the end. I would agree to just put some oil on it to prevent any further oxidation. Best to just leave the rust. It is what it is. --Matt www.StCroixBlades.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FN43 Posted October 28, 2021 Share #12 Posted October 28, 2021 I also think that I will clean it only very lightly, if it is well kept in a dry place the rust will not develop further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wackyd Posted October 29, 2021 Share #13 Posted October 29, 2021 I recently used household vinegar to help remove some rust on two rusted MK2 blades - no handles there. You might try a bit on a cloth or paper tower on the tip of the pommel or on the fingerprint. If not washed off, it will lead a bit of surface oxidation on bright surfaces, but does also "fix" the iron oxide to iron acetate. My take is oil can limit the continued rust reaction, but without agents intended for altering the rust, or mechanically attacking the rust, you are not really removing rust. On one hand, never never never never never alter the artifact. On the other hand, don't let rust take the artifact. I'd do the light oil or Hoppes then oil route first. If its just not right for you, maybe try the vinegar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted October 29, 2021 Share #14 Posted October 29, 2021 This is a pretty old thread at this point now. I hope moviepropman is happy with the present condition of the V-42 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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