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WWII Poster help ---- NEXT!


cmjordan77
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Hi,

I got a beautiful original Super large WWII Poster of a marine over some islands with the caption "NEXT".

It is huge!

It was folded, but the creases are not too bad and no holes. I really mean this is in beautiful ORIGINAL shape.

Does anyone recommend how to get out the creases? Also, what type of frame is good? any type of backing to avoid damage? I have always heard "Youd better get Acid free backing for that picture" and yadda, yadda,

Any recommendations?

 

Thank you all for the help!

 

See Poster below

post-2002-1233184567.jpg

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Marked 1944

Measures 28 1/2" by 40"

This poster is from the estate of the local man who was in charge of distributing and displaying these posters during World War II

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The creases in your poster are original.These were shipped folded during the war to banks,post offices etc.I would frame it as ir using a foam core backing board or anything that is acid free.most frame shops have acid free backing and matting materials.Its not cheap to have this done.I see many of these in a simple black wooden or aluminium frame.

 

RON

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These posters were shipped in manilla envelopes and were all folded like yours. So the folds are original. If you search the forum for conservation or preservation, I'm sure you'll find some advice on how to minimize the folds for framing. Make sure you use acid free products. Linen backing is a recomended method.

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FightenIrish35

one of my favoriteeeee ww2 posters....i dont think theres much you could do on the creases....but if you frame it i believe the correct way to frame it is with acid free tissue paper behind the paper...thats what ive been told and that how I have mine framed...I actually have the poster i have as my avator..i love it thumbsup.gif

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post-589-1233203506.jpg

See if there is a Blick Art materials store in your area (www.DickBlick.com/stores). They will have all your framing needs and probably some good advice for your project. You could probably buy all the necessary equipment to frame your poster for the same price of having it framed "professionally". I have $30-50 in material invested for this poster.

 

John

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I've collected old posters for a long time and like they say the folds are original. I've minimized the folds on some of my posters by laying them out flat and humidifying the room (not hard to do here in Houston). It takes quite a bit of time to allow the paper to relax but if you try to press out the folds you'll ruin the paper.

 

As far a linen backing I'd defer to a professional to do that. It's a process that I don't think you want to start with on such a great poster. Personally I don't like linen backing because the poster is no longer original. That's just my opinion and preference.

 

Rice suspension hanging in an appropriate frame is how I'd do it. What ever you do study the processes you want to use before doing anything and I'd suggest a test subject first.

 

What you do depends on how much you value the poster and it's historical value.

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I would agree to use acid free material for framing as I have been collecting WWII posters for some time. Over time the folds will continue to be less noticeable, unless you have a poster with damage caused by the folds. If you want it linen backed, a professional restorer will do that and you will not notice it was ever folded. The fellow who does mine is Chris Cloutier at Poster Fix in NYC. In my opinion, he is the best. He did a four foot by six foot poster for me with many fold lines and it is superb. He has a website if you Google his name or I think it is just posterfix.com.

 

Very Nice poster.

 

Cheers,

Jim

 

Homefrontguy

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The creases in your poster are original.These were shipped folded during the war to banks,post offices etc.I would frame it as ir using a foam core backing board or anything that is acid free.most frame shops have acid free backing and matting materials.Its not cheap to have this done.I see many of these in a simple black wooden or aluminium frame.

 

RON

Good advice ^

 

Simple black or grey or wood frame, with plexi glazing, spacer between frame and print (vs matting, which is REALLY expensive)...

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