Jump to content

M1 Helmet A-Washer corrosion removal and chinstrap repair


Seagle07
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

I am in the process of purchasing a late-war Firestone liner. Trouble is, the washers have been corroded, and I want to use the liner for physical purposes. What are safe ways of removing corrosion without harming the blackened brass? 

 

Secondly, would it harm the chinstrap if I applied some sort of super glue? Are there any other ways in repairing it? 

 

 

Firestone1.jpg

Firestone2.jpg

Firestone3.jpg

Firestone5.jpg

Firestone6.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only thing I can think of that would not damage it, is to take a stiff tooth brush

and carefully try and brush it off.anything else you could do, like applying something to it or washing it off,

might damage the webbing. Or if its for wearing, try to find a cleaner one and keep this one for display.

Fixing the chinstrap with glue.... Ive been thinking on how to fix a couple broken ones I have.

I am considering a piece of gause or even fiberglass glued on the back where its broken to strengthen the repair.

Otherwise, I think it would just pull apart. But I have not done it yet.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've once 'repaired' a broken liner chinstrap with the sticky part of a band aid and it still holds everything together.  Just cut the band aid to size and place it at the back of the chinstrap so it isn't that noticeable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1966ww2collector

Get another broken chinstrap. Sometimes collectors will sell them for parts. Cut a 1 inch piece of leather from the "parts" strap. Splice the original with the 1 inch strip on the back side of the break. Super glue should work fine. If done properly, it will be hard to notice the repair.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Burning Hazard

Leave the washers as they are, don’t clean or replace as they are part of the history. I actually like the salty liners with that corrosion more than mint ones, dunno why.

 

leather chinstrap can be taped using clear tape or with another leather piece underneath.

 

Pat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Dogsbody said:

 

 

8 hours ago, 1966ww2collector said:

Get another broken chinstrap. Sometimes collectors will sell them for parts. Cut a 1 inch piece of leather from the "parts" strap. Splice the original with the 1 inch strip on the back side of the break. Super glue should work fine. If done properly, it will be hard to notice the repair.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

+1. Only use contact cement, it will stay flexible unlike super glue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also often the corrosion has leeched into the webbing and can cause it to weaken and tear at the points of contact. Being 70+ years old fibers break down and the corrosion has added to the issue .I have liners that are torn where the washers contact the webbing. Some was caused by the pressure and tension  of the sweatband pulling on the webbing. Some were very oil and sweat stained etc. 

I have a friend who reworked old shot liners for reenactors. He re did the webbing, washers, rivets, chin straps and paint.

I think I would look into a refurbished liner if one was to be wearing it for any amount of time. We even would use these in a displays and the people always have to pick up a helmet and "try it on" so a reworked liner was perfect and no one really knew the differance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. It is nearly impossible to find a WW2 M1 helmet liner here in the UK. My only other chances are to resort to buying from Europe, as the added custom charges from the states puts me off from buying there entirely! 

 

Does anyone know any other militaria stores in Europe, that sell cheap US gear (or specifically liners) for under 100 euros? The ones displayed in the image is from the UK, under a £100- but looking for one that is in good shape and will display nicely on a shelf.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/22/2020 at 5:30 AM, gap said:

 

+1. Only use contact cement, it will stay flexible unlike super glue.

Would a leather adhesive work the same as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recall several craft and leather glues that are flexible. Tandy use to sell a product called leather weld. I used it once on an old A2 that was really damaged. I put and under layer of leather where the repair was needed and used the glue and some direct weight..That was over 25 years ago and it still is holding up. I wasn't really wanting to do anything to the jacket but stabilize the tear and damage.

 

  Even some hot glues remain some what pliable. I would look at Tandy or just make sure the glue is pliable / flexible when dry. As suggested lay a donor piece of leather underneath the repair. Either and old chin strap or thin strip of chamois etc. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

May years ago I bought a helmet with in less than great condition as it had been sewn repaired but after time it had become very loose so I applied a little glue in the actual join (the shiny parts is the glue) around the sewn area.....and hasn't moved now for a further few years.

 

 

001.JPG

004.JPG

006.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once repaired a liner chinstrap with this glue, which is good on leather too. I was happy with the result.

fd50927e4ed1a214690ef9464510a083.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...