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When did the US Army Change Their Size Labeling for Fatigue/Combat Uniforms?


huntssurplus
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There were multiple previous system for labeling size on US Army Uniforms over the years. Now I'm not as familiar with size labeling pre-WW2 era so if anyone could explain that, I would appreciate it. 


Now I'm covering the 1940's to Modern Day, there were three distinct size labeling methods that I have observed.

The first is labeling combat uniforms that same as dress uniforms. This sizing method is still used today, but only on dress uniforms and other uniforms where a more precise fit is needed. This sizing system was the simple 32-46 sizes (I don't believe I have seen under 32 or over 46). They also have three different lengths for each of these sizes. They were short (abbreviated to S on labels), Regular (abbreviated as R) and Long (abbreviated as L). Thus the label would read 36R if it was a 36 - Regular, or 42L if it was a 42 Long. Now i believe the number (I.e. 36, 42, etc) referred to the size of the shoulders in inches maybe? Not entirely sure. But I believe it referred to some sort of measurement pertaining to the actual size dimensions of the uniform item. 


Similarly Shirts were marked with two numbers with one on top of the other. Usually something like 15 on top with 36 on the bottom. Again, I believe these referred to some sort of actual dimensions of the shirt, but not sure.

HBT shirts were marked the same as uniform jackets. They were not labeled like wool shirts. The reasoning behind this I am not sure, but I'm guessing that the shirt measurement were more precise as they were also used for dress uniforms. When I say "shirt" in this instance I'm referring to the Khaki shirt, Wool shirt, and any other similar shirt. 

 

The Label was almost always located at the center back on the inside part of the collar for shirts, jackets, coats, etc and on the waist for pants. There are exceptions to this which I cannot remember off the top of my head


Pants were marked with again two numbers on top of each other, however they had a little more space and the numbers on the pants were followed by a letter. The letters were for the top number W for Waist and the bottom number L for Length. Thus a size label would be 31W, 33L.

 

Around 1945 the Army changed their size labeling system for all fatigue and combat uniforms. Instead of using the number followed by letter they switched to three sizes. These sizes were simply Small, Medium, and Large. The size label for them was the same construction and location for clothing manufactured at the end of WW2 with the same type of white cotton tag being used. Each size was denoting by a single letter--the first letter of the word. For example Small was S, Medium was M, and Large was L. Now I cannot say for certain if the change was made in 1945 or earlier/later, but from my personal observations, the first time you see these labels are on late pattern HBTs. I.e. 3rd and 4th Pattern HBT shirts. By the time of the 5th Pattern/1947 Pattern HBT, the label has changed from the cotton tag located in the collar to an inked stamp. The stamp was either located just under the collar on the inside part of the uniform item or on the left or right side with placement being the same as modern day labels. Now the 5th Pattern/1947 Pattern HBT was not the first Instance of this type of label being used, it is seen on M43 Field jackets at the end of WW2 along with other clothing. It can only be assumed the new labeling system was introduced along with the new sizing system, but did not see use on every piece of new clothing until later. I do not know if an "Extra Large" size existed, or if an "Extra Small" size existed. 

 

The next change in the Sizing system comes around 1952, with the Army switching to modern day sizing system. This keeps the Small, Medium, and Large, but similar to the WW2 system adds on a reference for length. These were the same words as used before--Short, Regular, and Long. Sizes then became, for example, Medium-Regular, Small-Short, Large-Long, or any combination of those sizes like Small-Regular, Medium-Long, etc. It seems the sizes of "Small-Long" and "Large-Short" are quite rare however as I can't recall seeing to many of those if any actually exist. The label remained the same as the change in 1945 being the inked on version. The tag/label changed from being inked on to the paper/cloth tag sewn flat into items sometime in the 1960's, although I have not pin pointed when yet. it seems like it was still inked in on things like ponchos at least into the late 60's, but my knowledge of post-1950's uniforms is much less. It seems like there is quite likely items still with inked on size labels. But it seems like the transition to mostly paper/cloth sewn labels took place in the 1960's. They are the only type of tag seen on the OG-107 slant pocket Jungle Jackets, as well as all fatigue uniforms thereafter that I can think of. 

 

Now this is all from my observations, if you have any information to add, or any dates/information to correct that would be much appreciated. And post your pictures as well if you have any! I need to dig some stuff out to take pictures to post, so I'll try to get to that when I can. 

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A 40R jacket indicates a regular length jacket for someone with a 40" chest.  38R for a 38" chest, etc.  For shirts, the size indicates the neck and sleeve length.  A 15x33 shirt indicates a 15" neck and a 33" sleeve, measured from the center of the shirt to the end of the cuff.  The shoulder measurement's have never been a part of uniform sizing.

 

 

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