Jump to content

World War One Weekly Wing #48 - Tiffany and Co.


cwnorma
 Share

Recommended Posts

World War One

Weekly Wing #48

Tiffany & Co.

 

WWOWW48.jpg.d16ddcdea1ae969765adcdab3c8b5e76.jpg

Description

 

Reserve Military Aviator

 

An extremely handsome American-made World War One wing, executed in a New York interpretation of the Beaux-Arts style

 

Design wise the wings are executed in somewhat more naturalistic fashion than many other World War One era badges.  The New York Beaux Arts movement included Neo-classical and Greco-Roman revivalistic elements along with modernistic influences.  Tiffany & Co's wing exhibits two splayed wings on either side of an elegant squared shield.  

 

Artistically, by WW1, Tiffany & Co. had established their reputation as America's finest silver maker.  During this timeframe, under the direction of John C. Moore II, the firm was also the only American silver maker of the era to win the gold medal at the International Silver Exposition.  Tiffany & Co's badge is distinctive and demonstrates simple elegance popular among wealthy American easterners.  This understated design is in stark contrast to the very fancy and stylized designs popularized by such firms as Shreeve and Co. in San Francisco.

 

The chief contains 13 small raised "stars" atop a pebbled field.  The field portion consists of alternating raised and relieved vertical columns.  The relieved columns are textured with fine vertical lines.

 

The US on this example is hand cut from thick 14k gold billet using an a non serif rounded font.  Each letter is separately applied to the face of the shield.  Some variants are known made from slightly thinner 14k gold flat stock.  Still others have the US letters secured through the shield by tiny gold rivets.  The method of affixing the gold US to the shield may have been a reflection of the craftsman who finished each badge.

 

Markings

 

The badge is marked "TIFFANY & Co" and STERLING."  

  

Mountings

 

Blancard (aka "Tiffany") catch and very well made thick, long pin.

 

Background

 

060913-F-1234S-001.jpg.009bb2a4062c5be1738cbc6a437b983e.jpg

Major Henry H "Hap" Arnold apparently wearing a Tiffany RMA Badge. -- USAF collection

 

Associated Airfields:  The various training fields of Long Island such as Luffberry, Hazlehurst, and Roosevelt Field and other Air Service activities in and around New York City such as Bakers Field in Rochester.  Additionally, many Airmen embarked for Europe at Hoboken, or disembarked from France at the large Port.  Many a visiting Airman would have doubtless visited the big city.  Even in WW1, Tiffany's flagship building at the corner of 5th Avenue and 47th St, across the street from the world famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel would have been a tourist destination.  The original Tiffany & Co. Building still stands.

 

tiffany1.jpg.f252417f868190e02b688bf7829a4c1d.jpg

Tiffany & Co Building (circa 1905)-- NYPL Collection

 

Tiffany & Co was founded in New York in 1837 by Charles Louis Tiffany and is still in business with locations around the world.  By WW1, the company's Artistic direction was provided by Louis Comfort Tiffany (of stained glass fame) and quality overseen by third generation Tiffany employee Director John C Moore II.  Moore's attention to detail is famous and he personally inspected (attested by his personal "M" mark) every item crafted by the firm on days he was physically present at the New York flagship.

 

Tiffany & Co. Badges are exquisitely finished.  Upon close inspection, most WW1 other era badges will reveal some remnants of the manufacturing process.  On the Tiffany & Co. badges, every surface, front, back, and sides has been expertly burnished to a perfectly smooth, glass like surface.  As befitting the output of such a high-end jewelry crafter with a world-wide reputation, there are no die marks or pools of extra solder to bely anything except perfection.  The lack of visible manufacturing artifacts has led some to conjecture Tiffany & Co. may have used a die cast (hot strike) process instead of a die struck (cold strike) process.  Either way, a great deal of time and expense went into final finishing of Tiffany & Co badges. 

 

We cannot discuss the Tiffany & Co. badge without noting the very similar Johnson Manufacturing Co. Badge.  Like the NS Meyer/I Scheuer, Robbins Type 2, and William Link badges that are all three very similar variations on a theme, The Johnson Manufacturing Co. Badge bears striking resemblance to the Tiffany & Co version.

 

1026484654_TiffanyCompare.jpg.aef839dfbfd65bc4c7d56655f3d69298.jpg

Top -- Johnson Manufacturing Co, Bottom -- Tiffany & Co.

 

While the two badges are quite similar, side by side comparison of the Tiffany & Co. and Johnson Manufacturing Co. badges reveal each is the product of a distinctive die.  Furthermore, the Johnson Manufacturing Co. badge is approximately 1/8th inch smaller in width than the Tiffany badge and slightly smaller overall.  Although smaller in overall dimension, the Johnson badge is both thicker and heavier than the Tiffany.  The Johnson badge also has a thin, die struck, gothic US.  The two badges are indeed similar, but definitely not identical.

 

It cannot be said with any certainty whether Johnson Manufacturing Co., a middle-grade mass manufacturer of ready to wear jewelry copied Tiffany's badge or if, as was common in the Jewelry business, had some sort of manufacturing relationship with Tiffany.  Some have speculated, noting the similarity, that Johnson may have manufactured the badge under contract for Tiffany.  Others have theorized the Johnson badge die may have been a first attempt that Tiffany rejected, but that Johnson themselves pressed into service for their own profit.  Evidence (beyond the superficial resemblance) to support those hypotheses has not yet come to light.  Perhaps the Johnson badge is simply a reflection of the principle that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and is a copy of Tiffany's design available to World War One Reserve Military Aviators at a more affordable price.

 

With only four more World War One Weekly Wing posts to go, I would love to see your examples of Tiffany & Co. or Johnson badges for comparison!

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris,

 

I have thoroughly enjoyed all your weekly WWI wing posts, but this is one of my very favorites.  Comprehensive, as always, and extremely well done!

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent post.  I would just quibble in that I have always doubted that Tiffany actually made these badges at all--but rather had them made from a wholesale supplier (like Johnson for retail by Tiffany).  It is well known that much of Tiffany's stuff was contracted out to other jewelers and silversmiths in New York.  A pilot badge to US seems like the height of fashion to us on this forum, but was probably a very low value item (relatively speaking) for Tiffany's merchandise.  But I suspect I am totally wrong (as usual)....

 

Also, while nice badges, I am not sure they always represent the apex of wing badge making excellence. Ultimately, they were intended to be worn on a uniform (and I have always thought that more than likely by a more senior officer rather than a newbie pilot).  I suspect that like any young(ish) officer, there was a great deal of pride in what they had accomplished, but I have always felt that we, as collectors, tend to artificially conflate and manifest their esprit de corps through the badges they wore.  Apparently, flying in canvas open cockpit airplanes was dangerous, difficult and uncomfortable, and I suspect that heading off to the big city to hunt for that "perfect pilot wing" was relatively low priority on a new pilot's "to do" list. They probably wanted a nice hot meal and maybe some smootching with their sweetheart. It was a different time.

 

I know of a collector who has a rather crudely made Tiffany marked post Adams style pilot wing that may (or may not) have been made by Tiffany.  I will let him post it if he feels like doing so, but my opinion (for what that is worth) is that it is 100% legit.

 

One thing I am aware of is that it wasn't uncommon for some organizations, (such as fraternal or reunion groups, etc) to contract out with Tiffany to produce (or more than likely have Tiffany go to a jobber and then put their name on an item) various medals, and awards. I suspect some items, like the Tiffany Medal of Honor was actually made by Tiffany, but others, like some of the State Service medals--maybe not.

 

This is my Tiffany RMA/Observer wing.  I have posted it before on this thread. 

When I bought it off of eBay, I had every intention of sending it back as a fake. But the more I handled it and compared it to other original Tiffany wings from other collections... the more I liked it.  There is some gunk that has collected in the bottom of the "U" and there is some rather fine gold solder splatter around the US. But as a member of my collection, I have decided that it is right as rain.  It has the correct "Tiffany style" catch (I believe it is kosher to call the catch on a Tiffany wing the "Tiffany catch"!), the dimensions are correct, and the hallmark is fine.  It does lack the Tiffany "m" mark, but I suspect that is is possible that this particular badge didn't pass their muster because of some of the soldering sloppiness.  The finish is correct... all in all a nice badge, but one of those situations in which a collector has to decide for themselves type situation.  I decided it was good, and at least for the purpose of this thread, it gives people a chance to see what is a rather rare badge, the Tiffany 1/2 wing.

post-1519-0-19158700-1569952846_thumb.jpg

post-1519-0-15898000-1569952833_thumb.jpg

post-1519-0-55445500-1569952811.jpg

post-1519-0-19939500-1569952804.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was during my research into the Tiffany-made wings that I first heard the idea of Tiffany & Co. possibly using a die cast (hot strike) process instead of a die struck (cold strike) process.  The wing feathering on these badges are somewhat unique.  When I handled 2 or 3 Tiffany wings, side by side, it's not immediately obvious that the structure of the individual wings are all the same (like you would see on a die struck wing).  My sense is that these were, in fact, die cast using hot/melted metal and die forcer rather than a planchet and a forcer.  With die struck wings, you can usually tell immediately if two different wings came from the same die. But even comparing two original Tiffany wings, that isn't the case.  In contrast, the Johnson wings do seem to be die struck and you can tell that every Johnson wing seems to have come from the same die. 

This is all conjecture on my part, but if I had to guess, I would say Chris is onto something about the die cast nature of Tiffany wings.

 

Another point, when a wing is cast by pouring metal into a mold, as the metal cools it WILL shrink a bit.  That is why castings made from another wing are always a fraction smaller.  HOWEVER, die casting, when force is applied to the hot metal in the mold, the force of the strike ensures that the dimensions of the item will be the same each time.  This (I assume) can allow you to differentiate from an original die cast wing and a fake casting from an original wing.  The fake casting will be smaller than the original--and you see that with many of the fake Tiffany wings (and those offered by HeWhoShallNotBeNamed as museum replicas).  In the above RMA wing, the dimensions of the wing is the same as other "original" wings.  I carefully measured the dimension of the shield (height, width, and depth) the stars, the lines in the shield, and the size of the wing (compared to 2 other Tiffany full size wings).  All measures were almost identical (assuming some very small variations).  While on the other hand, measurements of a fake casting showed that the casting was significantly smaller. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the Ellington 1918 yearbook, I found it interesting that of all the known wing makers or retailers, in addition to J. J. Sweeney’s (based in Houston) letter of appreciation in the book, it was only Arthur Johnson Mfg Co., New York, NY, that purchased an advertisement in the book. I could have missed another maker / retailer, but Johnson was the only one I saw.image.jpg.c2729dfe5c0f363f2b875d012adcc6d5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gents,

 

Thank you!  I never know when one of these WWOWW posts will take off and garner some interest.  But I am always glad when they do!

 

...and Patrick, I still like that wing!

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because of the popularity and value of Tiffany works, there is a great deal of information and knowledge available on line about this company.  The Tiffany Co used many different hallmarks over the years.  This is a very good primer on Tiffany hallmarks.  Of course, the hallmarks are frequently faked and there is a very large industry of counterfeit marks.  I suspect that nothing is exempt from being faked.

 

The time period of about 1907 to 1947 was when Tiffany fell under the directorship of John C. Moore II.  During this time almost all (but apparently there are exemptions) of Tiffany products were marked with a small lowercase "m".  This allows Tiffany products to be dated.


https://www.925-1000.com/Tiffany_Date_Code.html

 

I have found that there are a couple-three ways that Tiffany seems to be marked.  The most common seems to be with the hallmarks "stacked" in the center of the shield, just above the lower edge.  Usually it is 

Tiffany and Co (with the "o" as a superscript and underlined)

Makers

Sterling

m (for John Moore)

 

Then the next method seems to be with the hallmarks in a line following the  curve of the lower edge of the wing.

Sometimes the order of the words is reversed.  In a few examples, the "makers" seems to be absent.  I have always felt that the "MAKERS" mark indicates that Tiffany had used a "jobber" or "maker" to produce the object... but honestly that is just a guess.

 

There seems to be at least one good version that had the US riveted on to the wing rather than soldered.  This is a source of many fakes, and the rivets were cast into the reproductions.

 

Tiffany also shows up on some very early and fine examples of the USN aviator badge from 1918.  Many of these badges have the name and number of the aviator finely engraved on the back.  I have had the chance of looking at a few of these super rare badges, but couldn't find an example.

 

WW1 Tiffany Wing 006.jpg

022_3d.jpg

tiffww1pilotwingrevmkr_540x386.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Does anyone know if the Johnson Manufacturing Co. become the Johnson Company at some point?  Both companies were in New York City but I found different addresses for each of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
On 2/16/2021 at 8:20 PM, 5thwingmarty said:

Does anyone know if the Johnson Manufacturing Co. become the Johnson Company at some point?  Both companies were in New York City but I found different addresses for each of them.

Arthur Johnson & Company became Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company, Inc c1917.  In 1935 The Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company merged with National Insignia Manufacturing Company to become Johnson National Insignia Company. 

 

Johnson literature/ads claimed a founding date of 1895 on most items, I've seen some list 1894.  Arthur W Johnson and Charles D Bergen were the key individuals. 

 

National Insignia Mfg Co claimed they were established in 1911.  William F Esling owned National Insignia.

 

Yes, many addresses and several individuals involved.  I have additional information if you would like more details.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rathbonemuseum.com
2 hours ago, haw68 said:

Arthur Johnson & Company became Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company, Inc c1917.  In 1935 The Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company merged with National Insignia Manufacturing Company to become Johnson National Insignia Company. 

 

Johnson literature/ads claimed a founding date of 1895 on most items, I've seen some list 1894.  Arthur W Johnson and Charles D Bergen were the key individuals. 

 

National Insignia Mfg Co claimed they were established in 1911.  William F Esling owned National Insignia.

 

Yes, many addresses and several individuals involved.  I have additional information if you would like more details.

Dear Haw68,

 

Yes, I would like that information please. Will DM you my email address. Thanks.

 

Tod

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/26/2021 at 9:41 AM, haw68 said:

Arthur Johnson & Company became Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company, Inc c1917.  In 1935 The Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company merged with National Insignia Manufacturing Company to become Johnson National Insignia Company. 

 

Johnson literature/ads claimed a founding date of 1895 on most items, I've seen some list 1894.  Arthur W Johnson and Charles D Bergen were the key individuals. 

 

National Insignia Mfg Co claimed they were established in 1911.  William F Esling owned National Insignia.

 

Yes, many addresses and several individuals involved.  I have additional information if you would like more details.

@haw68,  

Thank you for this additional information.  In your research have you found any relationship between the Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Company and Tiffany and Co?

 

Some collectors have speculated that the visual similarities between the Tiffany and Johnson badges might indicate a contractor-jobber type relationship.  The badges are indeed similar, if no more so than the various similar Meyer/Scheuer, Link, and Robbins small-type badges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris,

 

No, I have not yet found anything that would prove there was any relationship between Johnson and Tiffany.  If I do I will be sure to let you know.

 

Heath

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
rathbonemuseum.com

More digital ephemera of the Arthur Johnson Manufacturing Co. Inc...They do not have a deep trail in city or Polk business directories. Or in newspapers.

 

 

Screen Shot 2022-05-06 at 9.45.18 AM.png

Screen Shot 2022-05-06 at 9.42.49 AM.png

Screen Shot 2022-05-06 at 9.29.56 AM.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tod,

 

The official program for the First Annual Aeronautical Exposition in NY held March 1-15, 1919 is available on HathiTrust:  https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=njp.32101048877359&view=1up&seq=63&skin=2021

 

For anyone interested in early aviation history this program has much interesting information.  One article I enjoyed started on page 50 and is titled, 'For the Army's Part.'   Arthur Johnson Mfg Co is the only company exhibiting at this show that sold medals, jewelry, or similar items.  Johnson's advertisement from page 70 of the program is as follows:

 

From the Johnson National Insignia Company archives is the original printing block used to create this ad which shows the Official Medal for the show:

 

I wish I had an example of this medal in my collection and unfortunately have not been able to locate the stamping die used to produce it.  The wings insignia displayed on the medal with 'MAA' on it represents the Manufacturers Aircraft Association which was established in 1917.  You can find examples of the medal online.  This link will take you to an example on The Smithsonian's website:  https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/medal-first-annual-aeronautical-exposition-march-1-15-1919/nasm_A19640424000

 

Heath

1919 - First Annual Aeronautical Exposition - New York - March 1-15 1919 - JNI Archives - Heath White Collection.jpg

Pages from 1919 - Arthur Johnson Mfg Co - ad in First Annual Aeronautical Exposition Catalog - HathiTrust.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't realize a PDF doesn't display as an image in a post.  This should be easier to view:

 

2096756347_Pagesfrom1919-ArthurJohnsonMfgCo-adinFirstAnnualAeronauticalExpositionCatalog-HathiTrust.jpg.3d2adb12888f2a89db29db74971b0fd5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below are examples of two early printing blocks from Arthur Johnson Mfg Co used to produce aviation related brochures. 

1541182961_JohnsonCoAviationPrintingBlockA-ImageReversed.jpg.d5ab76a11c1e159e4579f3a905d80f3d.jpg

 

1488596587_JohnsonCoAviationPrintingBlockB-ImageReversed.jpg.0df0ccb09bd4a569960c02adaa31ba8e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rathbonemuseum.com

Thanks Heath @haw68 for sharing from your deep collection. Can you please share your "family tree" of the Johnson and National insignia companies? Great research.

T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put together the diagram below to show the various company names, mergers, addresses, & owners of Johnson National Insignia.  This is my first draft so I expect to make corrections and additions as more research is done.

1814178940_JNIFlowchart.jpg.2b80e802c5c7f4230aeddce1d31c5f1e.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, haw68 said:

Below are examples of two early printing blocks from Arthur Johnson Mfg Co used to produce aviation related brochures. 

1541182961_JohnsonCoAviationPrintingBlockA-ImageReversed.jpg.d5ab76a11c1e159e4579f3a905d80f3d.jpg

 

1488596587_JohnsonCoAviationPrintingBlockB-ImageReversed.jpg.0df0ccb09bd4a569960c02adaa31ba8e.jpg

Heath!

 

My heavens this is some amazing content!  All I can say is:  Wow!  This opens whole new avenues of research!

 

Thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All, for those who aren't acquainted with him yet, Heath @haw68 has amassed an amazing body of knowledge concerning early medallic arts manufacturers.

 

I want to personally thank him for taking the time to share his aviation related information with us!

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rathbonemuseum.com

The information is the smallest outcrop of the mountain of information Heath is building about military and fraternal furnishings! Thanks Heath!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...