Looking for Tips on cleaning old Ka Bar’s

[Griff]

I have a decent collection of WWII/Korean war/Vietnam era ka bars and some of them have dust/dirt built up and minor spots of surface rust....I’m not looking to do anything drastic but are there any products I could use to wipe the blades down to protect them  and beyond the metal anything I could use to clean the leather handles without altering them? Also my early WWII knives are blued so I don’t want to put anything on there that could remove blueing.....Generally I wouldn’t clean relics but this is very minor and I don’t think would effect the value or alter the knives in any way, plus I want to protect the metal....Thanks in advance for any tips.......John. 

[SKIPH]

Griff- Light coat of oil, or LSA on the metal, will not hurt the finish. I also use brown, or neutral shoe polish on leather handles( don't fill in the grooves, not necessary). Apply the polish, and buff with a shoe brush.  Been using this method over 50 years, never lost or ruined a knife. Some of the other collectors have ways they take care of knives, they'll chime in and give you more alternatives. SKIP

[Griff]

The second knife down is a pal USMC knife and the finish is almost perfect and the handle is solid.....There just seems to be a powdery/dusty substance all over the blade and in all the little books and crannies......I know if I could clean it up it would display great.....also this is just a temporary means of displaying the knives....I’m fairly new to the collecting game........

[doyler]

Another solution other than oil is Renaissance Wax. 

 

Its used on all types of materials and creates a barrier and no issue of oil transfer to other surfaces. It can be orfered on line and is a little spendy but they say it goes a long way when used. It lasts longer than oil and can be over coated.Even if you use a neutral shoe polish on the handle the Ren Wax can be applied over it.There are lots of articles and topics on line as well. Its ideal and widely used in museums and other conservation institutions. Being able to use it on a wide variety of surfaces and materials is a plus 

 

 

 

[Old Marine]

I agree with Ron.  I have used the Renaissance Wax for years and have never had a problem with it. A little goes a long way and it also cleans verdigris.

[Griff]

Thanks for the responses guys.....With the Renaissance wax do you apply it to the leather of the metal?

[GOAmules]

I would not use wax on the metal.  Parkarized finishes will be messed up by hard buffing, and you have to buff to get the waxy look off.  They will never look right again.  Maybe on the leather, but again, there are better products for leather, like Lexol conditioner. 

 

Museum wax is over hyped.  For the blades use what has preserved them this long, and what the military and hunters used for 300 years: oil.  There are many online tests that show gun oils, almost any of them, do better in rust prevention than Ren Wax.  Wax is for glass cases and humidity controlled exhibits with curators watching closely.  I've used CLP on guns that I had to store away for 6 years....never to be touched or looked at.  They were fine when I got back.  

 

Get some CLP Breakfree and spray some on a patch, rub it on the blade.  If there is any rust, let it soak for an hour or so, then wipe it off with a clean patch, and repeat as necessary until the patches don't show rust.  Then the blade is preserved better than any wax will do.    

[sundance]

You hear a lot of good reviews about Renaissance Wax for metal and leather (and it smells good - not military good but good). Oil always works fine on metal.