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Any tips for setting Lift the Dot studs without the expensive tool?


M1Garandy
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I was just given a mint Vietnam era rifle jump case. However, the male Lift the Dot stud is missing and needs to be replaced.

 

Any tips on installing them without spending $50 or more on the special tools? Or does anyone know a source of less expensive installation tools? 

 

Thanks.

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You can usually find snap setting tools in fabric stores or the sewing section of many "big box" stores.  Setting the stud on a Lift The Dot fastener is the same as a Pull The Dot or regular snap.  All you are doing is peening the post.  Drill a hole in a block of wood slightly larger than the diameter of the stud, put the stud in the hole, put the fabric over the post (back of the stud), put the washer over the post, give the tool a couple of whacks with a hammer and you should be good.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The snap setting tool from the glove snap (like the belt loop snap on an M3 shoulder holster) is a different size than the male LTD snap. If you're in the Phoenix area let me know and you can use my setting tools. If not, the drilled wood block is a good idea but you'll still need the setting tool or a substitute for it. The setting punch is about $20 from DOT but maybe an auto upholstery shop would set it for you. LTDs are used in some automotive applications. 

Herb

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I'm not near Phoenix unfortunately. 

 

Good to know, though it turns out the stud I bought is too short for the thickness of the material it is going in anyway and I need to fid one that is longer than 3'8".

 

Seems like that might prove to be a challenge from what I have found so far, 

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  • 1 year later...

Now for the rest of the story. 

 

I've been looking at this jump case in my garage, moving it around and generally being annoyed that I have not found a way to get the missing male LTD installed after turning up zero on a stud with a longer stud for thicker material.

 

Solution devised today. Compress the material thinner! A pair of fat fender washers with small center holes, a drill bit to stick in the hole in the stud to help keep me centered and some long reach welding Vise Grips, and I got the wool padding compressed enough to get the tail of the stud to project through the backing washer with enough tail to peen it over. I used a 1/4 drive deep socket on an extension clamped in a vise to back things up when setting it. 

 

Worked like a charm, job done, finally. 

 

 

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