World War One Weekly Wing #15 - I. Scheuer, jeweler

[cwnorma]

Spanish Flu!

 

In the Winter and Spring of 1917-1918, the world was devastated by the so-called Spanish Flu. With the war raging in Europe, millions of soldiers fighting in close quarters, and essential medical care disrupted, a mutated virus quickly spread around the world. By some estimates, the "Spanish Flu" Influenza of 1918 infected a full third of the world's population. The Spanish Flu, as it was called, was particularly hard on otherwise healthy young adults.

 

At the turn of the last Century, Manhattan's Maiden Lane, and surrounding blocks had organically developed into a district for manufacturing jewelers. Many firms, often run by ethnically Jewish proprietors, sought to provide middle-grade, manufactured jewelry and related goods to independent retail jewelry shops, department stores, and other concerns on a regional or even national basis. Two such firms involved in the ready made jewelry trade were The I Scheuer Co. and NS Meyer Co.

 

In October 1918, Meta Scheuer succumbed to the Spanish Flu. The wife of I. Scheuer, Meta had essentially run the local operations of the company while her husband developed the business end. The death of Meta Scheuer, was apparently enough for I Scheuer to decide to leave the retail side of the Jewelry Business altogether.

 

N.S. Meyer, up to WW1 was a wholesaler, manufacturer, and jobber in the ready-made jewelry industry. The successor to S.N. Meyer, the firm had been in business since 1868. With vastly increased government requirements for military insignia during the wartime buildup. NS Meyer soon found themselves inundated with wartime orders from their customers. Around the same time, at some point the firm decided to concentrate on lucrative government contracts instead of supporting the retail trade.

 

1918 I Schueur Co Advertisement

Records have not come to light, but it is very likely that I Scheuer contracted with N.S. Meyer to manufacture their design of US Army Air Service Reserve Military Aviator wing. When Meta Scheuer died, and I Scheuer decided to exit the retail jewelry business, it is likely that N.S Meyer either purchased Scheuer's dies already in their possession, or I Scheuer simply abandoned them. What is clear is that I Scheuer, marketed the badges throughout 1918, exited the retail jewelry business in late 1918, and shortly thereafter, NS Meyer marked badges began to be produced.

 

This week's WWOWW below, represents this transitionary period.

 

The upper badge, marked only "STERLING" is most likely the version of this badge sold by retailer I. Scheuer and probably manufactured by N.S. Meyer for them under contract. Attesting to the popularity of this design, Robbins and Co. of Attleboro Falls MA, William Link Co. of Newark NJ, and at least two other unknown manufacturers also made strikingly similar badges. The upper badge is characterized by a separately applied solid 14k gold U and S.

 

The lower badge is likely one of N.S. Meyer's first versions of the badge manufactured wholly under their own auspices. It is struck in non-sterling silver (probably coin silver) and characterized by a separately applied rolled gold U and S. Rolled gold is a process where a relatively thick layer of gold, slightly thicker than standard gold plate, is layered upon a non-gold substrate which is then used to strike the design. Being thicker, rolled gold is slightly more durable than standard gold plate and allows manufacturers to sell a moderately priced product with a handsome, rich gold finish. Rolled gold Naval Aviator badges made by N.S. Meyer and marked "ROLLED PLATE" are also known from the late 1918 - early 1920s period.

 

Note: The small font, separately applied, U and S characteristic of Scheuer/Meyer early badges.

The upper badge, probably manufactured for I. Scheuer, has a characteristic "come under" safety catch and is simply marked "STERLING."

 

The lower badge bears the N.S Meyer shield hallmark and their trademark; "ROLLED PLATE" describing that the separately applied U and S are not solid gold. The lower badge has a safety-type catch as began to be available from findings manufacturers in late 1918. N.S. Meyer continued to produce this badge, both with and without an applied US, for retail sale at least through the 1930s for anyone who needed or wanted a WW1 style Reserve Military Aviator's badge.

 

No discussion of the I. Scheuer/N.S. Meyer badges would be complete without a mention of re-strikes. N.S. Meyer retained their dies and all of their badges were re-struck for sale to collectors in the 1960s through 1980s. Consequently most specimens encountered floating around the market of collectable N.S. Meyer made wings are from this period. This is a shame as N.S. Meyer produced some quite handsome and distinctive badges. Consequently real N.S. Meyer made badges often fetch far less than some of their more common, but never re-struck cousins. The upshot is that real N.S. Meyer made badges are often a relative bargain and these fine badges can be obtained for a moderate sum.

 

The below badge is a re-strike N.S. Meyer badge, probably from the 1970s, where the base badge is struck from original 1917-1918 period dies:

 

Note: Large, gothic-font, non-gold, yellow alloy US.

 

Note: Simple catch, and "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" hallmark. As far as is known, this particular N.S. Meyer hallmark was never used on WW1 era produced badges. These re-strike badges were also offered in sterling and badges so struck will have the additional content mark "STERLING."

Collectors, when afforded an opportunity to examine or purchase an I. Scheuer or N.S. Meyer badge should pay special attention to the font of the US. The small, soft-edged, gothic font US is characteristic "tell" of early badges. I. Schueur badges should have a solid gold US, be marked only "STERLING" and should have a characteristic "come under" safety catch. Early N.S. Meyer badges should bear an impressed Meyer Shield and should have the content mark; "ROLLED PLATE." Depending on the badge condition, some or all of the rolled gold may have worn off the surface of the US. Care should be taken in such a case to ascertain that the badge meets all other criteria.

 

I'd love to see your NS Meyer/I. Schueur or any similar Robbins, or Link badges!

 

Chris

 

[guerrap]

Chris,

 

Another informative post by you! Thank you!

 

Pete

[rustywings]

Such a factual and well written thread, it was worth reading twice just to make sure I absorbed it all! Thank you Chris!

[cwnorma]

Pete,

 

I also have one of those Meyer marked Observer badges. Probably a product of the 20s to 30s, mine came from the Harry S. Wosk Army and Navy Store in San Diego and still has its original store card. I am still searching for a I. Scheuer-type half wing. Ah someday!

 

Russ,

 

Thank you for the kind words my friend. Its the people (like you) who always bring me back to this hobby.

 

Cheers!

 

Chris

[blind pew]

Fantastic history and explanation!

 

Chris- as (from what I understand from your post) Meyer used the same dies to produce wings, can one see die flaws forming on the later wings and/or a decline in the "sharpness" of the strike in later made badges?

 

Are the early made ones always with the same type catch?

 

Are there any wartime badges with the "NS Meyer, New York" stamp, or are they all 60s and 70s restrikes?

 

Thanks again for the excellent information!

Spanish Flu!

 

In the Winter and Spring of 1917-1918, the world was devastated by the so-called Spanish Flu. With the war raging in Europe, millions of soldiers fighting in close quarters, and essential medical care disrupted, a mutated virus quickly spread around the world. By some estimates, the "Spanish Flu" Influenza of 1918 infected a full third of the world's population. The Spanish Flu, as it was called, was particularly hard on otherwise healthy young adults.

 

At the turn of the last Century, Manhattan's Maiden Lane, and surrounding blocks had organically developed into a district for manufacturing jewelers. Many firms, often run by ethnically Jewish proprietors, sought to provide middle-grade, manufactured jewelry and related goods to independent retail jewelry shops, department stores, and other concerns on a regional or even national basis. Two such firms involved in the ready made jewelry trade were The I Scheuer Co. and NS Meyer Co.

 

In October 1918, Meta Scheuer succumbed to the Spanish Flu. The wife of I. Scheuer, Meta had essentially run the local operations of the company while her husband developed the business end. The death of Meta Scheuer, was apparently enough for I Scheuer to decide to leave the retail side of the Jewelry Business altogether.

 

N.S. Meyer, up to WW1 was a wholesaler, manufacturer, and jobber in the ready-made jewelry industry. The successor to S.N. Meyer, the firm had been in business since 1868. With vastly increased government requirements for military insignia during the wartime buildup. NS Meyer soon found themselves inundated with wartime orders from their customers. Around the same time, at some point the firm decided to concentrate on lucrative government contracts instead of supporting the retail trade.

 

WWOWW15- - 1 (1).jpeg

1918 I Schueur Co Advertisement

Records have not come to light, but it is very likely that I Scheuer contracted with N.S. Meyer to manufacture their design of US Army Air Service Reserve Military Aviator wing. When Meta Scheuer died, and I Scheuer decided to exit the retail jewelry business, it is likely that N.S Meyer either purchased Scheuer's dies already in their possession, or I Scheuer simply abandoned them. What is clear is that I Scheuer, marketed the badges throughout 1918, exited the retail jewelry business in late 1918, and shortly thereafter, NS Meyer marked badges began to be produced.

 

This week's WWOWW below, represents this transitionary period.

 

The upper badge, marked only "STERLING" is most likely the version of this badge sold by retailer I. Scheuer and probably manufactured by N.S. Meyer for them under contract. Attesting to the popularity of this design, Robbins and Co. of Attleboro Falls MA, William Link Co. of Newark NJ, and at least two other unknown manufacturers also made strikingly similar badges. The upper badge is characterized by a separately applied solid 14k gold U and S.

 

The lower badge is likely one of N.S. Meyer's first versions of the badge manufactured wholly under their own auspices. It is struck in non-sterling silver (probably coin silver) and characterized by a separately applied rolled gold U and S. Rolled gold is a process where a relatively thick layer of gold, slightly thicker than standard gold plate, is layered upon a non-gold substrate which is then used to strike the design. Being thicker, rolled gold is slightly more durable than standard gold plate and allows manufacturers to sell a moderately priced product with a handsome, rich gold finish. Rolled gold Naval Aviator badges made by N.S. Meyer and marked "ROLLED PLATE" are also known from the late 1918 - early 1920s period.

 

WWOWW15- - 1.jpeg

Note: The small font, separately applied, U and S characteristic of Scheuer/Meyer early badges.

The upper badge, probably manufactured for I. Scheuer, has a characteristic "come under" safety catch and is simply marked "STERLING."

 

The lower badge bears the N.S Meyer shield hallmark and their trademark; "ROLLED PLATE" describing that the separately applied U and S are not solid gold. The lower badge has a safety-type catch as began to be available from findings manufacturers in late 1918. N.S. Meyer continued to produce this badge, both with and without an applied US, for retail sale at least through the 1930s for anyone who needed or wanted a WW1 style Reserve Military Aviator's badge.

 

WWOWW15- - 2.jpeg

No discussion of the I. Scheuer/N.S. Meyer badges would be complete without a mention of re-strikes. N.S. Meyer retained their dies and all of their badges were re-struck for sale to collectors in the 1960s through 1980s. Consequently most specimens encountered floating around the market of collectable N.S. Meyer made wings are from this period. This is a shame as N.S. Meyer produced some quite handsome and distinctive badges. Consequently real N.S. Meyer made badges often fetch far less than some of their more common, but never re-struck cousins. The upshot is that real N.S. Meyer made badges are often a relative bargain and these fine badges can be obtained for a moderate sum.

 

The below badge is a re-strike N.S. Meyer badge, probably from the 1970s, where the base badge is struck from original 1917-1918 period dies:

 

Restrike Meyer - 1.jpg

Note: Large, gothic-font, non-gold, yellow alloy US.

 

Restrike Meyer - 2.jpg

Note: Simple catch, and "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" hallmark. As far as is known, this particular N.S. Meyer hallmark was never used on WW1 era produced badges. These re-strike badges were also offered in sterling and badges so struck will have the additional content mark "STERLING."

Collectors, when afforded an opportunity to examine or purchase an I. Scheuer or N.S. Meyer badge should pay special attention to the font of the US. The small, soft-edged, gothic font US is characteristic "tell" of early badges. I. Schueur badges should have a solid gold US, be marked only "STERLING" and should have a characteristic "come under" safety catch. Early N.S. Meyer badges should bear an impressed Meyer Shield and should have the content mark; "ROLLED PLATE." Depending on the badge condition, some or all of the rolled gold may have worn off the surface of the US. Care should be taken in such a case to ascertain that the badge meets all other criteria.

 

I'd love to see your NS Meyer/I. Schueur or any similar Robbins, or Link badges!

 

Chris

 

 

[cwnorma]

...

 

Meyer used the same dies to produce wings, can one see die flaws forming on the later wings and/or a decline in the "sharpness" of the strike in later made badges?

 

Are the early made ones always with the same type catch?

 

Are there any wartime badges with the "NS Meyer, New York" stamp, or are they all 60s and 70s restrikes?

 

Thanks again for the excellent information!

 

 

blind pew,

 

To answer your specific questions:

 

Comparing my examples of the early (I. Scheuer-type) badge, my intermediate (N.S. Meyer) and the 1970s re-strike badge I can see no apparent die flaws or wear. We can conclude that it was probably a very well made die. I have heard anecdotally that the WW1 era Meyer RMA die recently has cracked (at the nadir of the shield) and any current re-strikes will show this flaw. I do not have an example showing this flaw to compare/illustrate.

 

Here is a close up of the two appropriate catches for WW1 era Scheuer/Meyer RMA badges:

 

The Meyer RMA (left) has a safety catch with a double eared barrel that when viewed as in the photo above rotates clockwise to close. The Scheuer (right) has a somewhat different catch, labeled in their advertising as a "patent catch," with single eared barrel, that (as viewed above) rotates counter clockwise to close. I have not yet located patent data on this catch. Note: Examples of N. S. Meyer manufactured Observer (half wing) badges from the immediate post-WW1 period have a simple catch (seen in Pete's fine example above).

 

As to your final question, N.S. Meyer hallmarks are all over the place--with considerable inconsistency and overlap. The "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" 2-line trademark in raised lettering began to appear on other products in the 1920s. With respect to the same trademark in incised lettering, I have never encountered a wartime made RMA badge nor a between-the-wars badge made by NS Meyer bearing that particular trademark. I consider the incised, two-line hallmark; "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" to be a product of the re-strike period.

 

I hope that answers your questions.

 

Chris

[blind pew]

Thanks for the very detailed explanation!

 

blind pew,

 

To answer your specific questions:

 

Comparing my examples of the early (I. Scheuer-type) badge, my intermediate (N.S. Meyer) and the 1970s re-strike badge I can see no apparent die flaws or wear. We can conclude that it was probably a very well made die. I have heard anecdotally that the WW1 era Meyer RMA die recently has cracked (at the nadir of the shield) and any current re-strikes will show this flaw. I do not have an example showing this flaw to compare/illustrate.

 

Here is a close up of the two appropriate catches for WW1 era Scheuer/Meyer RMA badges:

 

NS Meyer - 3.jpg

The Meyer RMA (left) has a safety catch with a double eared barrel that when viewed as in the photo above rotates clockwise to close. The Scheuer (right) has a somewhat different catch, labeled in their advertising as a "patent catch," with single eared barrel, that (as viewed above) rotates counter clockwise to close. I have not yet located patent data on this catch. Note: Examples of N. S. Meyer manufactured Observer (half wing) badges from the immediate post-WW1 period have a simple catch (seen in Pete's fine example above).

 

As to your final question, N.S. Meyer hallmarks are all over the place--with considerable inconsistency and overlap. The "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" 2-line trademark in raised lettering began to appear on other products in the 1920s. With respect to the same trademark in incised lettering, I have never encountered a wartime made RMA badge nor a between-the-wars badge made by NS Meyer bearing that particular trademark. I consider the incised, two-line hallmark; "N.S. MEYER INC. NEW YORK" to be a product of the re-strike period.

 

I hope that answers your questions.

 

Chris

 

[5thwingmarty]

Here is one I just picked up.  Although not a WWI issue wing, it is at least a vintage Meyer issued wing made with the WWI base wing die.  I am going to say its a 20's to 30's instructor wing, although it could just be a sweetheart or souvenir wing from this period.