Tom @ Snake River Posted December 27, 2008 Share #1 Posted December 27, 2008 Be it leather combat boots or ski boots, I have been useing "IMPREGNITE SHOE, M1" treatment. Of course it leaves a greasey finish and collects dust badly. It says to wipe off excess, but wondering if any of you have experience or a better idea for boot treatment ? What about heating up the boot to aid absorption ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpguy80/08 Posted December 27, 2008 Share #2 Posted December 27, 2008 I have a pair of repro Roughouts I obtained from At The Front. The boots came to me in a light tan colored rough side out leather. I have a can of WW II Era Dubbing, which was used to waterproof boots back then, but after opening it up and looking at it, I decided to use something a little more modern. I got a can of Kiwi "Wet Pruf". To Apply, get a rag and apply it to the boot and rub it into the leather really well, especially along the seams and stitching. The directions state the product will darken or spot leather, and when I was done with the first coat, my light tan roughouts were a nice, dark earth brown color. I'm sure that this same product, applied to the Chromed brown leather cap toe service shoes will probably result in a different effect, such as a darkened red brown. There is nothing in the directions that call for you to heat the boot, just apply the product to the boot and rub it in really good. Allow a few days for the boots to air dry. I handle these boots often and have found no greasey aftermath on the boot. Whatever you use, good luck. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_pickrall Posted December 27, 2008 Share #3 Posted December 27, 2008 Be it leather combat boots or ski boots, I have been useing "IMPREGNITE SHOE, M1" treatment.Of course it leaves a greasey finish and collects dust badly. It says to wipe off excess, but wondering if any of you have experience or a better idea for boot treatment ? What about heating up the boot to aid absorption ? Is the stuff you are using original WW2 issue? If so it would be a good idea to stop using it. There was a change to the regs in 1945 letting everyone know that the issue dubbing caused the stitching in boots to rot and they were told to stop using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Bibliotecario Posted December 27, 2008 Share #4 Posted December 27, 2008 When I was a kid I used WW2 dubbing from the surplus store on my boots--the stuff probably cost me a few pennies. Indeed it does leave one's boots dull and greasy--and as I recall, I still got wet feet. Happily my boots were a pair of worn-out castoffs, and I discarded them before any stitching rotted away. Wheather for appearance or practicality, in my experience dubbing would be my last choice for boot care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doyler Posted December 27, 2008 Share #5 Posted December 27, 2008 I would think Pecards or a similiar product would do the same.There is also a commercial product called Snow Seal if I remember correctly. RON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpw_42 Posted December 27, 2008 Share #6 Posted December 27, 2008 I would think Pecards or a similiar product would do the same.There is also a commercial product called Snow Seal if I remember correctly. RON Snow Seal is GREAT stuff - FOR MODERN BOOTS. I've used it on Timberlands and repro/reenacting boots for years. Heating the boots helps the leather to absorb the beeswax, which WILL darken them appreciably (much like Wayne described, above), but it's a color I've come to appreciate and associate with waterproof boots (OK, they're still leather, but for normal wear...). As for period boots (i.e. in my collection) I've learned to take Jeff Shrader's advice, oft repeated on the forum...less is more! Thrasher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve B. Posted December 27, 2008 Share #7 Posted December 27, 2008 I use Sno-Seal, and heat the boots slightly before applying. Put them in the oven on 150 for about 15-20 minutes, and the Sno-Seal melts into the leather. I have also noted that this is best done when the wife is not around. I only use that on modern or repro boots. The real boots don't leave the house anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom @ Snake River Posted December 28, 2008 Author Share #8 Posted December 28, 2008 Not to worry, I just used it on some modern work boots. I trash a pair about once a year. I do have Sno Seal on the shelf from back in my ski-bum days in the early 70's, when it was distributed by A&T ski co. Where it was the old origional military I thought that it was good stuff. But I guess technology marches on. I do have a pair of 1941 ski boots but they are in good shape and will never see the elements again. Thanks for your feed back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RTS Posted December 28, 2008 Share #9 Posted December 28, 2008 Be careful heating boots, most modern shoe adhesives are heat-activated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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