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SergeantMajorGray

1943 M84 Smoke Round 105mm

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I recently got this locally along with a 90mm shell. This 105mm should be grey right is that not the original paint or does it look that way because it was fired?

Thanks

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Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

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Anyone? It's about to be painted Grey with a yellow stripe with correct smoke markings stencil one day. Unless someone has other information.


Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

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It should be gray.

Thanks I'm going to add the yellow stripe to it also doing the correct letter stenciling looks like it would be pretty difficult though.

Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

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Not sure if you ever completed your round. I just did one the same as yours. 2rp8y87.jpg Hope that helps if you haven't already done yours.

I never got around to it yours looks nice maybe I'll get to it this year.

Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

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Not sure if you ever completed your round. I just did one the same as yours. 2rp8y87.jpg Hope that helps if you haven't already done yours.

Nice job on the lettering, however, keep in mind original lettering uses ink stamping pads to letter it. They roll the shell over the inked pad at time of filling it. Usually sloppy looking, with blobs and a few uneven smears. Also, they use an FS standard color,( Federal Standard number) yellow. Testors Model Master makes the FS standard yellow, it is Federal Standard yellow, FS 3353. See pic of my 105H, ink rolled.

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Here is another example , both WW2 dated, one a 105H and the other a Navy 3"/50. Although ink does not cover as well as paint, it lasts longer as is far cheaper for mass production, which is why it is used. Older ordnance did not use any primer, just paint over heated greaseless metal, which is why most ordnance prior to Vietnam found today has a lot of bare metal showing, scrapes easily etc.

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Finally found a picture of the process. How they were ink roll stamped. Serious collectors have these pads made by print shops, depends really how authentic you want your rounds to look.

post-180924-0-88826000-1527542166.jpeg

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Lastly, be sure to use TM 43-0001-28 for future repaints. If yours is an M84A1, it should be lettered as pictured. You should be able to find the engraved M number just above the the rotating band. Also, your two " squares" are weight class markings, and should be located about one inch below the fuze, and have a visible punch mark inside them. When they were weighed, a metal punch was used (from one to six "dots") to punch mark into the metal, and then they were ink rolled with squares over the punch mark. These weight marks indicated if the shell was light or heavy.

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Lastly, be sure to use TM 43-0001-28 for future repaints. It is the Federal Standard, a few of your markings do not make sense. If yours is an M84A1, it should be lettered as pictured. Big difference between an M84, eg, the M84A1 is a a smoke round, not the phosphorus round, the M84B1 is entirely different. Be sure to find the engraved model number to confirm what it is.You should be able to find the engraved M number just above the rotating band. Also, your two " squares" are weight class markings, and should be located about one inch below the fuze, and have a visible punch mark inside them. When they were weighed, a metal punch was used (from one to six "dots") to punch mark into the metal, and then they were ink rolled with squares over the punch mark. These weight marks indicated if the shell was light or heavy.

post-180924-0-16620300-1527543617_thumb.png

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Thanks I'm going to add the yellow stripe to it also doing the correct letter stenciling looks like it would be pretty difficult though.

It does not take a yellow stripe, find the engraved M number, go to TM 43-0001-28 and find the shell, letter as pictured. You will be happy when finished knowing it is correct. This ordnance collecting is not as easy as it looks.

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I recently got this locally along with a 90mm shell. This 105mm should be grey right is that not the original paint or does it look that way because it was fired?

Thanks

attachicon.gif 20160629_184517-800x450.jpg

Do not repaint it. Earlier inert shells were painted black with white lettering. See my picture above, keep it original.

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More info, if your shell is WW2 dated use this , TM-9-1901, the Bible for WW2 ordnance. The picture file is to big to post. Big differences in ordnance markings occurred after WW2.

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Do not repaint it. Earlier inert shells were painted black with white lettering. See my picture above, keep it original.

Oh cool thanks for the information good thing I'm lazy or I would have messed up a original. I'll check it's markings in a second.

Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

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Oh cool thanks for the information good thing I'm lazy or I would have messed up a original. I'll check it's markings in a second.

Be sure to post all the markings and also the fuze markings,and the head stamp on the case, your fuze looks WW2 correct...M54 or 52 from memory....

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Not the best pics but it's a m84 b1 with a dummy m22 fuze post-104619-0-37408200-1527557986_thumb.jpgpost-104619-0-39586900-1527557999_thumb.jpg


Grandson of Command Sergeant Major Max I Gray U.S Army

Also grandson of CWO-3 Arthur WillIam Seabury jr. USMC

 

 

donation2013.gifdonation2014.gif

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