SergeantMajorGray Posted June 29, 2016 Share #1 Posted June 29, 2016 I recently got this locally along with a 90mm shell. This 105mm should be grey right is that not the original paint or does it look that way because it was fired? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SergeantMajorGray Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share #2 Posted June 30, 2016 Anyone? It's about to be painted Grey with a yellow stripe with correct smoke markings stencil one day. Unless someone has other information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinb Posted July 1, 2016 Share #3 Posted July 1, 2016 It should be gray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SergeantMajorGray Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted July 1, 2016 It should be gray.Thanks I'm going to add the yellow stripe to it also doing the correct letter stenciling looks like it would be pretty difficult though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkdriver Posted May 21, 2018 Share #5 Posted May 21, 2018 Not sure if you ever completed your round. I just did one the same as yours. Hope that helps if you haven't already done yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SergeantMajorGray Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share #6 Posted May 21, 2018 Not sure if you ever completed your round. I just did one the same as yours. Hope that helps if you haven't already done yours.I never got around to it yours looks nice maybe I'll get to it this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #7 Posted May 28, 2018 Not sure if you ever completed your round. I just did one the same as yours. Hope that helps if you haven't already done yours. Nice job on the lettering, however, keep in mind original lettering uses ink stamping pads to letter it. They roll the shell over the inked pad at time of filling it. Usually sloppy looking, with blobs and a few uneven smears. Also, they use an FS standard color,( Federal Standard number) yellow. Testors Model Master makes the FS standard yellow, it is Federal Standard yellow, FS 3353. See pic of my 105H, ink rolled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #8 Posted May 28, 2018 Another pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #9 Posted May 28, 2018 Here is another example , both WW2 dated, one a 105H and the other a Navy 3"/50. Although ink does not cover as well as paint, it lasts longer as is far cheaper for mass production, which is why it is used. Older ordnance did not use any primer, just paint over heated greaseless metal, which is why most ordnance prior to Vietnam found today has a lot of bare metal showing, scrapes easily etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #10 Posted May 28, 2018 Finally found a picture of the process. How they were ink roll stamped. Serious collectors have these pads made by print shops, depends really how authentic you want your rounds to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #11 Posted May 28, 2018 Lastly, be sure to use TM 43-0001-28 for future repaints. If yours is an M84A1, it should be lettered as pictured. You should be able to find the engraved M number just above the the rotating band. Also, your two " squares" are weight class markings, and should be located about one inch below the fuze, and have a visible punch mark inside them. When they were weighed, a metal punch was used (from one to six "dots") to punch mark into the metal, and then they were ink rolled with squares over the punch mark. These weight marks indicated if the shell was light or heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #12 Posted May 28, 2018 Lastly, be sure to use TM 43-0001-28 for future repaints. It is the Federal Standard, a few of your markings do not make sense. If yours is an M84A1, it should be lettered as pictured. Big difference between an M84, eg, the M84A1 is a a smoke round, not the phosphorus round, the M84B1 is entirely different. Be sure to find the engraved model number to confirm what it is.You should be able to find the engraved M number just above the rotating band. Also, your two " squares" are weight class markings, and should be located about one inch below the fuze, and have a visible punch mark inside them. When they were weighed, a metal punch was used (from one to six "dots") to punch mark into the metal, and then they were ink rolled with squares over the punch mark. These weight marks indicated if the shell was light or heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #13 Posted May 28, 2018 Thanks I'm going to add the yellow stripe to it also doing the correct letter stenciling looks like it would be pretty difficult though. It does not take a yellow stripe, find the engraved M number, go to TM 43-0001-28 and find the shell, letter as pictured. You will be happy when finished knowing it is correct. This ordnance collecting is not as easy as it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #14 Posted May 28, 2018 I recently got this locally along with a 90mm shell. This 105mm should be grey right is that not the original paint or does it look that way because it was fired? Thanks 20160629_184517-800x450.jpg Do not repaint it. Earlier inert shells were painted black with white lettering. See my picture above, keep it original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #15 Posted May 28, 2018 More info, if your shell is WW2 dated use this , TM-9-1901, the Bible for WW2 ordnance. The picture file is to big to post. Big differences in ordnance markings occurred after WW2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SergeantMajorGray Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share #16 Posted May 28, 2018 Do not repaint it. Earlier inert shells were painted black with white lettering. See my picture above, keep it original.Oh cool thanks for the information good thing I'm lazy or I would have messed up a original. I'll check it's markings in a second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
917601 Posted May 28, 2018 Share #17 Posted May 28, 2018 Oh cool thanks for the information good thing I'm lazy or I would have messed up a original. I'll check it's markings in a second. Be sure to post all the markings and also the fuze markings,and the head stamp on the case, your fuze looks WW2 correct...M54 or 52 from memory.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SergeantMajorGray Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share #18 Posted May 29, 2018 Not the best pics but it's a m84 b1 with a dummy m22 fuze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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