Well it happened again, M8 ! Cleaning info help

[Chas100]

A few weeks ago I was minding my own business trying to keep my mind on work as I was calling on some accounts around the lake (Lake Erie) and decided that since I was only around 45 min from The CMP NS to make a lunch time stop to pick up another spam can to feed my Garand with an early Fathers Day present I received. It gets awfully hungry this time of the year.

 

I was in a hurry so I didn't stay long and as anyone that follows The CMP knows there is not much in the way of M1's available. As they were writing up my order I was reminded of the M7 bayo's and scabbards as they had one on the counter so I had them add one to my order. I had actually forgotten about it as I have a lot going on right now.

 

Yesterday I remembered about the M7 so I decided to open the box to check the scabbard. I do not open the bayonet from it's sealed package because of Gary's (bayonetman) excellent book we know from the stock number what it is. The scabbard packaged in it was another M8.

 

This one is totally unaltered. It's a one rivet with no wire hanger added. It does look to have been painted with the throat also painted. Along the side of the body, a little over half way down the body there is a small piece that is broken off. There was no piece in the wrapped paper so it leads me to believe that it was issued at one time but to look at it, it looks to be unissued.

 

Finally to my dilemma. On the front of the throat where it reads "USM8" and "BMCO" as I stated above the throat has been painted. For some reason there are bumps in the paint over some of the lettering. The rest of the throat is in excellent condition. I'm afraid if I try to remove them it may also remove the paint and look worse. You can plainly read the writing now.

 

1 - Should I try to remove the bumps or leave it as is ? If I do try to remove the bumps how should I go about it ?

 

2 - What would be a good cleaner to use to clean the crystalized white powder from the body ? I used a damp rag and it removed most of it.

 

Thank You for any info and I'll try and get a few pics of it today and post them later.

Chas

[Misfit 45]

I'm looking forward to seeing it.

Marv

[Chas100]

Here are a few quick pics I took

 

This is a pic of the scabbard. After resizing it, it didn't come out very good

 

This is the area on the throat that looks as though they painted over top of rust or dirt

 

This is a pic of the area of the body that has a chip of some type. There were no pieces in the wrap when I opened it up so that leads me to believe that it was like this when they wrapped it and added it to the carton with the sealed bayonet.

 

My concern is that if I do try to clean up the area of the throat that it will show the bare metal. If I don't clean it up and if it is rust it will only get worse. It is also stamped B N with nothing on the top and what looks like a 3 or 5 on the bottom.

 

Any suggestions or ideas ???

[Chas100]

 

Here is a little better pic of the scabbard

[sactroop]

I’m posting some pictures of two of my M8’s with the early webbing that my help with your inquiry.

As you can see the one has been repainted on most of the metal surfaces, including the rivet heads and the ball ends on the retaining strap. In my case you can see that the paint didn’t stop the corrosion that was present when the paint was applied. I see this quite often on the re-paints. The metal throat may have corrosion under the paint. It may also be that it wasn’t prepped for painting in the best of ways.

As a rule I try to leave my items alone as much as I can. Re-painting of the sheath is something that happened during the sheaths life of service and I try and leave it. But active rust is just not a good thing.

If it were one of mine, at this point I’d keep an eye on it. If there is active rust under the paint I’m not aware of a method to neutralize it without removing the paint first. If someone has an answer to this, please feel free to share. If there is active rust it will start to show thru the paint at sometime.

 

[sactroop]

As you can see this one could have used some better prep before the paint was applied.

 

 

 

[Misfit 45]

It's great that you found one that was not converted to M8A1, but that's where it ends. You may have a "less than perfect" M3 that would look good in this scabbard, but as for restoring it to mint condition, not gonna happen. If it were just removing the paint and making the metal nice, that would make it a keeper. However, it also has the chunk out of the side. I do think that it is a presentable scabbard for a lightly used M3.

 

I was thinking about removing the paint and then using a little cold blue to dull the shine, but I thought about how much work it would be to get all the paint off. You could smooth out the area then paint the entire body and throat. Matching the color would be difficult if you try to buy paint from the "hardware store". A Military Vehicle supply like RAPCO will show a variety of WWII paints available. If you go to their site, click on PAINTS then scroll down to " Descriptions Recommendations and uses", you'll fine one you like.

 

Or you could leave it alone, then keep it or sell it. The choices are not easy.

Marv

[Chas100]

I may take a soft toothbrush or nylon brush to it to see if I cam removal some of it. I don't want to take the paint off unless it is rust. I did this once on an M7 scabbard and I never was able to get a color match and thr patina is gone.

 

I've thought of just removing the paint on the throat. and leave the body paint as is.

 

Thanks for thr info.

[Chas100]

It's great that you found one that was not converted to M8A1, but that's where it ends. You may have a "less than perfect" M3 that would look good in this scabbard, but as for restoring it to mint condition, not gonna happen. If it were just removing the paint and making the metal nice, that would make it a keeper. However, it also has the chunk out of the side. I do think that it is a presentable scabbard for a lightly used M3.

 

Or you could leave it alone, then keep it or sell it. The choices are not easy.

Marv

Thanks for the information !! I obviously knew with the chip on the side of the body that it wouldn't be a mint condition M8 scabbard. It has also been repainted at some point in time but IMO it is still a fairly collectable WW2 scabbard that has not had any modifications done to it.

 

At this point in time (never say never) I have no intention of selling any of the M8's or any other bayonets and scabbards I have. The last 3 M8's I received from The CMP, 1 mod with 2 rivets added and 1 rivet removed and 1 that is unmodified in excellent condition and this one, all packaged with a sealed M7 bayonet have had a dried white powder on them. Most of the powder was removed with a damp rag but a small amount I couldn't remove with a damp rag.

 

Any ideas on something that I could use to remove the little bit of remaining powder that would not harm the paint or scratch the body ?

 

Thank You for the info !!!

[sactroop]

I've cleaned powdery residue from packed bayonets with isopropyl alcohol. If that didn't do it a little acetone did the trick. Parkerizing is pretty forgiving. Keep it away from any plastic or paint.

[Chas100]

I've cleaned powdery residue from packed bayonets with isopropyl alcohol. If that didn't do it a little acetone did the trick. Parkerizing is pretty forgiving. Keep it away from any plastic or paint.

These M7 bayonets are still packed in the sealed plastic with wrap around them. I'm not going to open the bayonets as I know what they are via Gary's excellent book. The scabbards are what I've not been able to remove the white powder from. The loose powder was removed with a damp cloth. What is still on the scabbard is more of a white stain. Not a lot but would be nice to be able to remove it so I can add a small amount of lube on them to rewrap them.

 

Thanks for the bayonet tip. I will try that on a few that still need a little cleaning.

[sactroop]

Sorry I got crossed up on the white residue. First a mild soap like Murphy's Oil soap won't effect the paint. The isopropyl alcohol also won't hurt the paint. You'd just be wiping that on and off.

[camillus]

for the correct paint color if you can find the correct FS color number check with model shops that cater to military modelers you may be able to find it there

[Chas100]

Sorry I got crossed up on the white residue. First a mild soap like Murphy's Oil soap won't effect the paint. The isopropyl alcohol also won't hurt the paint. You'd just be wiping that on and off.

Thank You for the tip ! I have some murphys but never thought of trying it.

[Chas100]

on my second pic that shows the throat area do you feel there is any way to repair that or try ???

[sactroop]

If I’m viewing the picture correctly, it looks like the paint still covers whatever is causing the imperfection underneath. To me it’s problematic to remove something because you really don’t know what’s underneath. If it was me I’d resist the temptation to correct it as that so often leads to just making the problem bigger. I don’t like to do anything that isn’t reversible.

[Chas100]

If Im viewing the picture correctly, it looks like the paint still covers whatever is causing the imperfection underneath. To me its problematic to remove something because you really dont know whats underneath. If it was me Id resist the temptation to correct it as that so often leads to just making the problem bigger. I dont like to do anything that isnt reversible.

LOL. I agree with you on the make things worse !! Thank You for reminding me of that.

[KRIS FORD]

Older topic, but I'm seeing a LOT of these M8s/M8A1s, that have a pretty pro OD paint job..guessing spray..(I have a BM Co. marked one myself with OD on rivets throat and hanger ,and probably the webbing too for that matter LOL)

It's a twin of sorts of @sactroop 's above, but with a smoother finish. (and with a hanger and no grommet at the tie/drain hole at the tip.)

 

What's the scoop on the OD paint jobs?

[SKIPH]

Since the metal throats on M8/M8A1 scabbards tended to rust up, due to humidity, use, or some type of exposure. Unit armorers would paint them "OD", for protection of the metal, or to look good in an up coming inspection. Years ago, unit arms rooms were no equipped with dehumidifiers, and a lot of moisture accumulated on weapons and equipment. As far as rivets go, could be just local repair. SKIP

[sactroop]

I'm with SKIP on this.