WWII Dummy Training Rifles

[thorin6]

I've picked up a couple of the Parris-Dunn Training Rifles, one for the US Army and one for the US Navy. The Navy one is more well known, while the Army one, called the Victory Training is less common and less known. Here is a web site for training and drill rifle information which covers a great deal of information on a multitude of non-firing rifles. http://user.pa.net/~the.macs/Home.html

 

I've had the Navy rifle for some time, and picked up the bayonet and scabbard shortly after acquiring the rifle. The major differences between the two rifles are the bayonet mount on the Navy version (missing on the Army version), a metal barrel on the Navy and a wooden barrel on the Army, a full metal rear sight on the Navy (just the wooden base on the Army version), and a patented operating trigger on the Navy (cock and click once, need to recock to click again) and a plain, unmoving trigger on the Army version.

 

Here are the two rifles; the Army version is on top and the Navy version on the bottom; the Navy scabbard and bayonet are just below it. I've added the WWII leather M1907 slings.

 

 

[thorin6]

Here are the butt plates; the Army version on the top.

 

 

[thorin6]

Close up of the bayonet lug/barrel area. The Navy version has a metal barrel band while the Army version is painted or tape.

 

 

[thorin6]

The rear sights:

 

[thorin6]

And finally the trigger areas. The Army version is just a stamped trigger and trigger guard. The Navy version actually was patented by the Parris-Dunn corporation. The bolts are almost identical, except for a lug on the Navy version that cocks the trigger mechanism.

 

[Milky]

Mine has a broken bolt.

[Reaper]

Good info! How is the rear sight mounted on the navy Paris-Dunn version?

[Third Herd]

In a few days I will have my 66 birthday, I got a US Navy Mark-1 for my sixth birthday. I still have it and it is still in great shape since I took care of it. I already had a helmet and field gear, but I remember getting the training rifle.

[Backtheattack]

Interesting items, thank`s for posting. The link is very interesting, too. Never seen one here in Germany.

[Jumpin Jack]

Good info! How is the rear sight mounted on the navy Paris-Dunn version?

There is a single round head screw positioned at the top one-third position at the barrel end. Jack

[Brian Keith]

Those are great, unbroken bayonets are hard to find!

BKW

[bayonetman]

Just as a quick add to this thread, the late production Army version used most of the parts from the Navy Model, including the rear sight and bands. It continued to use the Army bolt and fixed trigger, and the buttplate marking remained the same also.

 

Although the upper band had the stud for the bayonet, the Army did not normally use a bayonet on it. although with some wiggling a standard M1905 or M1 bayonet can be made to fit.

 

[Reaper]

I am in need of a rear sight for the Parris-Dunn Navy model; as it is not the same sight as the normal 1903 sight, the one I have will not mount. Anyone have one or know where I find one? Thanks in advance.

 

R

[Jumpin Jack]

Here is a training rifle in my collection. It is a standard pattern 1903 Springfield Rifle with all metal parts to include the bayonet lug, and except for the extended metal bolt designed to prevent a bullet from being loaded. It was produced by the U.S. Training Rifle Co./Philadelphia.

 

 

[rldarmstr]

The rear sight on the US Training Rifle Co. WWI trainers is the same as the rear sight on the WWII navy trainer. That said, it is extremely difficult to find either rear sight floating around on its own. My suggestion would be to watch eBay and the gun auction sites (Gun Broker, Guns America, Guns International, etc.).

[Knight Squire]

New guy here, so take it easy on me, please.

 

I have 3 Navy Mark 1 training rifles I am fixing up for a local ROTC unit. I want them to look perfect. These rifles are currently far from it. One has two different cracks in the stock and I may take it out of service to use as a template and make a new black walnut stock because I don't think I can repair these micro thin cracks that go on for about 6-7 inches near the thin section where the bolt attaches.

 

Anyway, my question for the group is about the *metal parts and their repair. There seems to be a bit of rust and pitting. How would you go about stripping the current silver finish and replacing it to a polished chrome look?

 

Thanks,

Keith