TL-122 D Anglehead flashlight

[Dorado]

This weekend I bought a TL-122 D anglehead Flashlight made by Niagara. It doesn't work. I've tried the bulb in another light and it works just fine. I'm thinking that the switch has gotten corroded and is no longer making contact. I'd like to get this operational. I've cleaned all of the metal surfaces including what's behind the bulb but no luck. The switch itself moves fine and I can feel it click on and off and the button feels like it works as well.

So here's the question:

How do I get the switch clean?

 

I read somewhere about using ammonia to clean the switch but I don't remember much more than that. Do I cut with water? What ratio? Submerge the entire flashlight or just the switch? Rinse?

 

I'd appreciate any help.

[TheGrayGhost]

Rubbing alcohol is commonly used for cleaning electronic components. Reason being that it dries quickly and does not leave a residue, so you don't have to rinse or just rinse with more alcohol. You will want to use a high content isopropyl 91%+.

 

I would gently pour it in around the switch and cycle the switch and button several times, repeat a few times, rinse with more alcohol, let it dry and test it out. Sounds like you have covered all of the rest of the bases (these aren't rocket science).

[Dorado]

Would the alcohol be enough to clean the corrosion off? I figured it'd take something a bit stronger.

 

Here's another question. Anyone have a source on light filters and a new lens? My lens isn't bad just yellowed with age, and I didn't get any filters with it.

[TheGrayGhost]

I really can't tell you the best way to clean the switch internally. They are riveted in, so it would be difficult to take them apart. I don't believe there is much access from the inside. I don't know of any way to chemically remove corrosion, you usually have to scrub it off. I think alcohol would be safest/best chance of penetrating the switch and breaking down enough of the corrosion to make contact with doing major work.

 

I believe the filters are the same ones used in later versions of the same flashlight. The later versions are much easier to come by.

[sgtpeter]

I have yet to find a reliable way of cleaning a TL122 switch. If someone has something, I would be interested in hearing about it as well. To the best of my knowledge the filters for the TL122 and MX991 flashlights are the same.

 

Peter

[Dorado]

I had read somewhere that an ammonia mix would just about melt the corrosion off without damaging the rest but I don't remember the mix, all I remember is that it was mixed with ammonia.

 

MX991 filters huh? I can probably find some of those easily enough.

[Dorado]

IT WORKS!!!!! It really works!!!

I found the thread talking about how to clean the angle head flashlights. It was a lot of help.

So, I made a 50/50 ammonia water mixture and soaked the metal pieces and the main tube for about a minute. I found that the brass parts came out with a shine. Almost looked new. The plastic didn't discolor and after a hot water rinse all the residue was washed away. I let it air dry and put it together. It all works. Three positions: Off, signal, on. Everything works. Puts out a nice light. It'd be better if the lens wasn't yellowed but it is what it is. Point being, it works!

[Brian Keith]

Congratulations!

BKW

[TheGrayGhost]

Congratulations! Glad to hear you got it working.

 

If you would, include link to the thread you found here, it could help other members in the future.

[rambob]

This is the link which gives the whole cleaning procedure.

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33988&hl=ammonia

[sgtpeter]

Thanks for the info .... another project to work on this weekend

[Dorado]

Congratulations! Glad to hear you got it working.

 

If you would, include link to the thread you found here, it could help other members in the future.

Sorry, I completely forgot to do that!

 

This is the link which gives the whole cleaning procedure.

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33988&hl=ammonia

That's it right there. Exactly what I did and it worked.

 

From post #9 Durandal

Posted 17 January 2009 - 10:01 PM

I have restored a number of 122s that were non-functional. I'll outline the steps i normally take.

 

AndrewA74, you've taken many of the same first steps that I do.

 

First, I get 2 new D cell batteries that I know have a good charge. Then i also get a good PR9 (2.7V, .15A) bulb, and put the batteries and bulb in the light. If I don't get any results here, obviously there is a break in the circuit somewhere, so it's time to break out my multi-meter.

With the switch in the "On" position, and the batteries still in (you'll have to remove the bulb assembly for this), check both terminals in the head for voltage (the 20V setting on most multi-meters is good for this). If you don't get anything here, the problem is most likely in the switch, but not necessarily.

Many multi-meters have a continuity function which will sound a tone if electricity flows freely between the two probes. Turn to this setting, and you can isolate the problem. Remove the batteries from the light.

On the 122A the entire body acts as the negative terminal, so simply place the black probe on the inside of body, and then the positive terminal in the head of the light, against the contact which protrudes on the right side (ensure the switch is still on). if you get no continuity, then you know the problem is in the switch. You can also check the continuity between the contact at the top of the battery compartment, and the bottom contact in the head. I have had several lights where the problem stemmed from a bad contact in the top of the battery compartment.

 

Now to clean up that switch. To be honest, I've never tried this procedure on a 122A, but i've used it successfully on Bs, Cs and Ds. I see no reason why it shouldn't work on an A as well, but please proceed at your own risk.

Get some ammonia, and cut it 50/50 with some water. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as ammonia is pretty nasty stuff. If the problem is the switch, then most likely tarnish has built up on contacts within the switch. The ammonia solution will remove this tarnish.

Submerge the switch in the mixture for a minute, and then pull it out, and work the switch vigorously. Repeat this a couple times. Then run it under cold water for a couple minutes while working the switch. To ensure that all residue has been rinsed from the switch, I also fill a bowl with boiling water, and then dip the switch in the water. This part is actually pretty neat; if the bowl is transparent, you can see the residue falling out of the switch.

 

Once you're done rinsing the switch, get a hair dryer, and use it to dry the switch very thoroughly. Work the switch while you dry it. You really want to make sure you get all the moisture out of the switch, and the rest of the light, as moisture will undo any good that you've just done. In the summer time, leaving the light out to bake in the sun for a while might be good idea, and I've even heard of people putting their lights in an oven set on low heat (though I would not personally recommend this).

 

Now, once that is all done, try it again. In my experience, if I have isolated the problem to the switch, this will restore functionality to the light. I have yet to come across a light I have not been able to repair in this fashion.

I should emphasize that this will only fix your problem if you're sure that the problem is the switch. Make sure to check all the contacts with your multi-meter.

 

 

Hope this helps you, and please feel free to PM me with any questions you might have.

 

Cheers,

Fletcher

 

Now my bulb isn't very bright, but then again it's 70 years old. I couldn't find a regular PR9 bulb but I did get a LED bulb and it works great. Should last a good long while. I've put the original in the spare battery clip.