Military Jeep?

[ClaptonIsGod]

That's crazy.. So I guess now the question is, did this jeep somehow make it back from Europe, or was some GI on a base stateside carrying around the buckle when he dropped it? I second the others that you should start a thread over on the jeep forum, looking forward to watching your restoration. Do you have all four combat rims? The one in the photo looks like it should clean up.

[earlymb]

It seems you have more original parts to start with than usual with projects like this!

 

I agree the window frame is not original. I think the driver's seat is from a later jeep; you'll need the split-frame, small filler-type. The body is rotten at all the usual places, but most of it is just straight forward metal sheet. Every single MB/GPW part with the exception of the engine block is being reproduced, so if you can't save parts or find original replacements there's always a way out. There are plenty of jeep parts suppliers.

 

Original Ford bolts (with a script 'F' on the head) are highly sought after and expensive, so try to save as many as you can. Ditto for original Willys bolts you may come across. Almost all Ford-made parts are also marked with a script 'F' and always seem to bring a higher price than similar Willys parts.

 

DON'T THROW ANYTHING AWAY!! Parts you can't I.D. or think are beyond rescue often yield information or can be used as pattern parts, or are useable for someone else. During the tear-down, take the time to take pics of every nook & cranny of the jeep. You'll be amazed how often you'll need to look things up there during restoration.

 

Another great information resource apart from the books is the 'MVPA GPW Judging Standard'. It lists what parts is correct for what d.o.d. and includes colour and finish.

[kilgarvan]

Thanks again for all the help. So if I understand correct the seat belt and seat plate are not for the jeep, but, hang onto it for now.

 

We were also thinking after finding the German belt buckle that maybe this made its way back from Europe. Anyway to find that out?

 

Yes, we have all four rims the same as the one pictured. So, I'm excited these are combat rims!! What about the spare tire pictured leaning up against the jeep. Original?

 

The driver seat does have the "F' on it. Is it still a newer seat and not from this jeep?

 

Thanks again

[kilgarvan]

Oh, and, what about that plow hook up. I assume, as the guy we got the jeep from, that was an after the war put on to plow his driveway with. I assume during restoration take that out? The hydraulic pump is actually next to the shifter. Check on the pics.....

 

Thanks

[earlymb]

Thanks again for all the help. So if I understand correct the seat belt and seat plate are not for the jeep, but, hang onto it for now.

 

We were also thinking after finding the German belt buckle that maybe this made its way back from Europe. Anyway to find that out?

 

Yes, we have all four rims the same as the one pictured. So, I'm excited these are combat rims!! What about the spare tire pictured leaning up against the jeep. Original?

 

The driver seat does have the "F' on it. Is it still a newer seat and not from this jeep?

 

Thanks again

 

The seatplate and the belt (which I think is for tree- or pole climbing rather than a safetybelt) don't belong ot the jeep. I am mainly referring to parts you can't place right away. Best to ask first and if it's nothing you can do with it as you please. I said that mainly because a lot of people accidently throw parts away they can't place right away and need later on.

 

There is always a chance (though slim) that with careful removing of the post-war paint you can uncover the original military registration number on the hood and/or on the back panel, above the 'Ford'-script. This can't be tied to a certain unit though. However, it seems both front bumper and the two rear bumperettes are original to this jeep and this is where any unit markings would have been painted. You might get lucky... Take your time when trying to uncover any painted markings and work slowly, if they are still there they will probably very faint and you'll only have one chance to recover them.

 

All GPW's were delivered on the standard split-rim 'combat wheels', like the ones you have. You'll have to check them carefully to see if they are still straight and aren't rotted through (especially around the valve stem) and safe to use. It seems the loose rim has 4 slots in it; that is a post-war CJ wheel.

 

The seat will need some more research. I know Willys at this time used a split-seat frame, easily identified by the small gap in the upper tube of the back of the seat frame. I think the original seatpan should have the hole for the small model filler for the gastank though (and the small mouth gastank itself, ofcourse). If you decide to go with a motorpool-class restoration a large mouth gastank (and matching seatpan) will do fine.

 

 

 

Oh, and, what about that plow hook up. I assume, as the guy we got the jeep from, that was an after the war put on to plow his driveway with. I assume during restoration take that out? The hydraulic pump is actually next to the shifter. Check on the pics.....

 

Thanks

 

 

If you want to restore it back to WW2 military, the plow and pump will have to go. If it still works you should be able to get a few bucks for it even. It seems the front bumper is original though.

 

Can you post a pic of the frame crossmember directly under the grill? Does the grill have a straight top, or does the top have a dimple in the middle?

[kilgarvan]

Started cleaning more off engine. GPW but numbers don't match on tranny. Rebuilt block 1950 looks like.

 

Thoughts and comments welcomed

[kilgarvan]

Pic 2

[kilgarvan]

Pic 3

[robinb]

Those are casting numbers. They aren't intended to match.

[RS95B]

They are not casting numbers, they are Ford factory part numbers! The matching number you are looking for on the engine is on a flat pad, top right side of block, behind the oil filter. If the engine is original, that number should match the number on the frame, and the number on the glove box door data tag. Tranny looks original, but has been painted over with OD Green, probably during the rebuild. Transmissions were painted Ford Grey from that factory. Same Grey as the engine. Only the transfer case should be OD. Hope this helps.

[earlymb]

Even if that block is not matching numbers it would still be more original than a lot of other GPW's. Ford engines were weaker than Willys ones and prone to freeze-cracking. The number should be behind the oilfilter as stated, the date of assembly might be stamped on the mating surface with the oilpan. The right side of the block will probably have a casting date, but that will be easier to see once the fenders are off or the block it out.

 

Is the head GPW too?

[John Pfannenstein]

I would love to see some of the pictures when it is rebuilt.

 

john

[phantomfixer]

the Karlsfeld data plate is cool...engine rebuild in Germany post war...usually jeeps do not get sent back from Germany...so this is a nice find ( would help explain the German belt buckle)

 

Looks like a good project with some nice original parts...more than a lot of guys start with...F script body is nice....

 

 

Belt is one side of an aircraft lap belt....for sure...chuck it ...keep it ...not worth much in its condition ...they are a dime a dozen

 

excellent project good luck with it...

[Husker]

Nice find, indeed. If you decide that you don't want this jeep I would be very interested in purchasing it.

 

BTW....your GPW came from Ford's Louisville, KY assembly plant.

[RustyCanteen]

Old topic, but it looks like it still had the early right-hand fill T84-J transmission case too.

[kilgarvan]

Thanks for the recent comments!

 

Life has gotten in the way and we havent been working on the jeep much. But its "saved" from any further rot. Its in a garage.

 

So bad news to report. Engine block cylinder is cracked, so, can't use it.

 

Now we begin the search for an engine block. Trying to keep this as original as possible. So two questions.

 

1. Is the cracked block worth anything to anybody? should we save it? Demo piece for display? Thoughts?

2. How difficult would it be and how much would it cost approx to find an original GPW block to rebuild this jeep with?

 

Thanks guys.

[72psb]

As I stated earlier.Try G503 site.All the contacts you will need.

Bob

[RustyCanteen]

Thanks for the recent comments!

 

Life has gotten in the way and we havent been working on the jeep much. But its "saved" from any further rot. Its in a garage.

 

So bad news to report. Engine block cylinder is cracked, so, can't use it.

 

Now we begin the search for an engine block. Trying to keep this as original as possible. So two questions.

 

1. Is the cracked block worth anything to anybody? should we save it? Demo piece for display? Thoughts?

2. How difficult would it be and how much would it cost approx to find an original GPW block to rebuild this jeep with?

 

Thanks guys.

 

Where is the crack at? Not every crack in a block makes it scrap metal, but not every one can be fixed either. You say cylinder? If it is in the walls, take it to a good automotive machine shop and ask them about sleeving it, and if that will fix the crack. Good GPW blocks are very sought after now, and kind of rare. Many have issues that need fixing.

[earlymb]

GPW blocks were a lot weaker than Willys ones and most have cracks. Especially if it's the original, matching block shop around for opinions and quotes if it can be fixed. Even if it can't be repaired keep it with the jeep. You could start with posting pics of the damage of g503.com and ask for opinions, that will give you some ideas how to proceed.

[kilgarvan]

Here is a pic of the crack in the cylinder. Anybody fix one with a crack like this?

[earlymb]

I'm no expert on engines but re-sleeving might be an option. It's a common repair and I image they can weld, drill and re-sleeve the cylinder. I'm more worried about hidden freeze cracks.

[72psb]

Send it out for magnaflux. It will reveal all. A good engine shop can help or send you in the right direction.

[kilgarvan]

Another Question for you all. What type / kind of shovel and axe is correct for this jeep? Are the US marked? Dated? Where should I look for these and how much should we pay? A rusted up one that needs to be restored is desired. Anybody got one? Pm me!!

[svt40]

Another Question for you all. What type / kind of shovel and axe is correct for this jeep? Are the US marked? Dated? Where should I look for these and how much should we pay? A rusted up one that needs to be restored is desired. Anybody got one? Pm me!!

 

It's easier to explain with these two links as you will see there is a huge variation in shovels and axes that are correct.

 

http://jeepdraw.com/John_Barton1_Shovels.html

http://jeepdraw.com/John_Barton2-AXES.html

 

 

Also this website has a lot of invaluable information about the little bitty things that jeepers obsess over. Not to mention drawings of every single panel on the jeep showing what holes are where along with their measurements.

 

http://jeepdraw.com/

[tankdriver]

You can always bore it out and sleeve it.