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What to do with my M1 Carbine?


Catfishcraig
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Catfishcraig

I have a 1943 M1 Carbine manufactured by Underwood. The barrel is marked 1943 as well. It's not an untouched collector rifle but it looks nice after I put a Saginaw USGI stock on it.

 

My issue is that I've been having problems when shooting it. About half of the time it does not fire. I took it to a gun smith and was told the chamber in the barrel was cut too deep so the firing pin does not strike the primer and the round gets left in the chamber.

 

What to do with the riffle?

Put a new commercial barrel on it ?

Find an original USGI barrel $$

Leave it alone for what it is.

Sell it for what it is and find a nice shooter

 

Anyone out there with a similar issue and what did you end up doing?

 

Thanks

 

Craig

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take it to another gunsmith who knows GI weapons, could be bad ammo, primers worn firing pin and a host of other problems,

question to you what ammo, how long has been doing this, don't give up and try not to rebarrel could start other thing if done right,...

my best to you and good luck

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Catfishcraig

Thanks Warroom

 

I've been using commercial Remming rounds. Fires about half the time and the other half the round is left in the chamber without as much as a scratch mark on the primer. I was told firing pin is fine and spring is fine. Thanks for the input and looking for another gunsmith.

 

Craig

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Too Much WW1 Militaria

Did the guy check the headspace? You can buy a headspace go/no go gauge fairly cheaply on line. Sounds like it possibly could be a head space problem. Any ruptured primers?

 

John

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try GI military hard ball like usa never had luck with the brand you use and a clean chamber is a must clean from the rear to the front use a pull throw

and brush the chamber real well after this its job for a gunsmith. reloads are not a good idear need to perfectly resized, hope I have helped in some small way cheers

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I had an Inland Carbine that was having the same problem. I checked the headspace and the ammo; turned out it was a problem with both. I put in a different bolt and changed the ammo and never had another problem.

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Catfishcraig

Thanks guys. I don't know a lot about this stuff and have to depend on the gunsmith I took it to, who just simply said bad barrel chamber cut too deep. When I asked question I think he recognized my ignorance and just repeated himself.

 

It's frustrating and I traded a nice deer rifle for it. I don't know how much it changes the value. Looking for a good gunsmith in the Phx area.

 

What ammo should I try? Btw I was told headspace was ok but now I'm wondering if it was checked.

 

Thanks

 

Craig

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Yes, check headspace. If it too short the safety bridge will stop the firing pin. Usually only a problem with reloads that were not trimmed. Carbine brasss grows like heck.

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Catfish, I have some little knowledge about m1 Carbines. I'm in Sun City, Az until the 20th. I would enjoy looking at your Underwood, maybe we can try out a couple of parts and reduce the unknowns. I believe there is a gun show this weekend in Glendale, Az. If interested in getting together at my place, drop me a PM, I'll give you a call.

 

Chuck.

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Think about what you just said. The rifle fires about half the time. If you are using the same ammo and its factory fresh ammo and only half of the time it fires and all the ammo is the same spec then I don't believe its a head space issue. Take the bolt out of the rifle and put it in a pan and cover it with Hoppes #9 and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then use compressed air to dry it out. You might have some gunk in the bolt retarding the firing pin. Try Privi ammo in the rifle. Its about $20 a box and I find it works great.

 

You might go to the CMP forum and also ask your question to them.

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Craig, maybe I read your post incorrectly. If your bolt has a firing pin spring it is a non-GI bolt, as only Universal, a commercial manufacture made bolts with a FP spring. All GI bolts and most commercial makers have a free floating FP. Maybe the spring he mentioned was the hammer spring, should have 26 coils [early springs had 21 coils] for good reliability.

 

 

 

ps.I'll give you a call tonight.

 

 

 

Chuck

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You could just give it to me...

Ha! I was thinking the same thing!

 

...If you sell it to me, it will never misfire for you again! ?

 

I would find a recommended gunsmith who has experience with gas operated US rifles. When I first started looking to buy a Garand, I checked around until I found one who was willing to let me speak with customers who had their Garands repaired there. Fast forward to the present & I have spent enough on tools, gauges and books to purchase a nice Garand outright! But even after building one, I still have it checked out before firing it!

 

Use caution...improper headspace may misfire thousands of times, but it only takes one bad shot to blow up in your face. I'm not very familiar with Carbines, although I have a nice NPM. But I'm sure they pack enough power to do some damage when things go wrong.

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Catfishcraig

Thank you all for your comments. Even the funny ones ?

 

Thanks to Chuck and his wonderful offer to look at it and not to laugh when I called the spring by the wrong name. I feel like a 50 year old kid going to Basic rifle trading school ?

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blitzkrieg gsd

I do a lot of gunsmith work myself and feel like I can fix just about anything to do with a modern firearm. So first let me say that if the chamber was cut to deep you would have more then a 50/50 chance of misfires. It would most likely not fire at all because the round would be to far from the pin to make contact with the primer. Like some of the other guys have said start with a good cleaning. I have seen this type of problem a lot in all kinds of weapons. Most carbines where fired over the years with corrosive ammo at one point or another. That is the worst most dirty stuff on earth. If the rifle wasn't cleaned rite after useing it that will cause problems. My thinking is you have some crude that's keeping the fp from coming out far enough to strike the primer. I have saw this problem a lot over the years in all types of weapons. Start there and really clean it I mean get in there with a q tip and make sure it's spotless. If that doesn't help then most likely you have a head space problem. If that's the case it's a easy fix that shouldn't cost to much to do. But there's no need to give up on your rifle.

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Good comments. The best advice you can do as others have said is to thoroughly clean the disassembled bolt to remove fouling. Then change out the hammer spring and the firing pin if necessary. If that does not work, based upon what I perceive about your experience it would be best to take it to or send it to a competent milsurp smith in your area. Forum members can recommend one in your area. The best thing about a carbine is that all US surplus ammo since development has been non corrosive. As a result most carbines, unless an import, will likely have a good bolt and barrel. Good luck and good shooting. Hits count, CC

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blitzkrieg gsd

Even though US made mil surplus ammo was non corrosive doesn't mean corrosive ammo wasn't used in the rifle at one time. No matter what I think you have a good chance of fixing your problem with a good cleaning. Try that first if it don't work PM me and we can talk about your other options.

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ustpatcher1a

You're lucky to have one even though you have matters with it. My dad's trusty one was taken (along with his custom grips .45) when he was severely wounded by mortar fire fighting on the boundary of France & Germany in Oct '44 in the 36th ID AT . That's him with it in my forum avatar here.

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Catfishcraig

Thanks guys! I will first try cleaning but after meeting with Chuck (big thank you) it looks as thought the chamber skirt in the barrel may have been ground down a bit. Also the bolt is non-USGI and could be out of speck. Good news was tha Chuck was able to help identify many of the parts and barrel, receiver and slide appear to be original match.

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Catfish, I think the marks on the misfires were the result of the bolt not being in battery. This could have been caused by the moving slide/bolt parts being dirty and un-lubed. When the trigger was pulled, the bolt was not completely closed [rotated clockwise] and when the hammer struck the FP it could not go foreward far enouth to depress the primer, instead the FP hit a bridge across the receiver that prevents slam fires. The fix should be a thorough cleaning and lubrication. I think I would also replace the recoil spring with a new one, lube it and the guide also. I would hold off on replacing the bolt until I could test how the cleaning of the carbine worked out.

 

Good luck.

Chuck

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coolhandluke

Craig,

 

Please do yourself a huge favor and ditch the commercial bolt for a USGI replacement. Regardless of whether or not simple cleaning and lubrication appears to resolve the issue, I would not trust the safety of you or those around you to a part that should never have made it's way onto the rifle in the first place. It is well documented that non-USGI carbines (specifically Universal) have the ability to fire out of battery due to what I believe is the design of their bolt body. If you plan to shoot the rifle (or sell it to anyone who may do the same) the bolt needs replaced and the headspace checked. The increase in value of the rifle will cover the cost of having this done so you shouldn't be losing money in the long run.

 

I have no gunsmithing experience nor am I a carbine expert, but I believe that the chamber skirt should not be a problem after installing a USGI bolt. If I recall correctly some commercial bolts will have oversized extractors that may have been interfering with the chamber skirt, thus the need for it to be ground.

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