phantomfixer Posted February 9, 2015 Share #26 Posted February 9, 2015 The assy should be the ground..so attach a ground wire to the assy and the wire coming out to a 12v source...and it should come on......good luck..hope it works for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share #27 Posted February 10, 2015 Just figured it out and I'm stoked. I used a 12 volt power supply, clamped the negative on the tab on the back and the positive around the screw, and turned it on. I had tried before and failed because I clamped the negative onto the hood. I don't know why that didn't work, but now I know what does work. Also, I got a 1/35 scale Testors diecast model kit and repurposed the box into a display case, so I'm feeling pretty good. The photos are too big to upload and the site isn't letting me put in Photobucket links (not sure why), but it's pretty cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share #28 Posted March 2, 2015 The plot thickens... Went to the garage hoping to pay for the repairs and pick it up, and turns out they have to repair the rear axle. Also, the engine's from a 1938 Americar. I would've preferred the original engine obviously, but at least it's still a Willys engine. Is this still considered a Go Devil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomfixer Posted March 2, 2015 Share #29 Posted March 2, 2015 My take is a L134 is a L 134...it is a Go Devil regardless of its origin..... If I remember right ...Willys used the L134 in several cars...would imagine the L134 found its way in several roles...,I think my 134 was from a generator as it has no SN by the water pump or side...my understanding no SN means generator engine...same same... this would cause a hemorrhage to a rivet counter ..... Unless my jeep had matching #s, or if I was doing a factory resto.... I wouldn't let it bother me at all..... good luck! Did Bantam use the L134 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys44 Posted March 2, 2015 Share #30 Posted March 2, 2015 No Bantam use the Continental Motor 112-cid, 40 Hp but the Ford T84 Gear box. Pic My 134 Go Devil rebuild and my Ford GPW 1944. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill in VA Posted March 3, 2015 Share #31 Posted March 3, 2015 I had a '48 CJ2A tarted up as an M38. It's now living up in Wisconsin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share #32 Posted June 20, 2015 I've spent the last months doing daily body work, and just yesterday my old Jeep got sprayed. Now begins the (hopefully) short road to reassembly. I didn't have a lot of time to work today, but I installed the pintle hook and backing plates, data plates, choke cable, transmission hump, shifter boot and plate, and transfer case boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share #33 Posted June 21, 2015 Owing to the fact that my Jeep is at the shop (which is closed), I spent today priming and painting countless nuts, bolts and washers. Tedious, but well worth it. As I move towards final assembly, I have a few urgent questions. I posted them on the jeep forum, but haven't heard back yet and plan on driving the Jeep home Friday so I need to go in Monday ready to fire on all cylinders (unlike the Jeep was initially ): 1. On my top bow pivot swivels, I also have the thumb screws and spring washers. However, the thumb screws turn in up to basically where the threaded part of the swivel ends, but beyond there they won't go in any further. What am I missing? Also, what do the spring washers do?2. For replacing the steering wheel, is an ordinary steering wheel puller sufficient? And for the order of parts (starting with a bare, installed steering column), does it go: Steering wheel -> horn button -> horn nut, or is there something else? Also, does anyone have a drawing of the wiring from the horn button to the horn and battery? My jeep has a fuse box, and there isn't much left down at the opening of the steering column in the way of a relay, etc., so I'm just trying to find a way to make the horn go beep. While I'm trying to keep as many things faithful as possible, some cases call for function over form and I think this might be one. Lastly, the horn nut doesn't want to thread onto the steering column, but I might just need to clean it up more.3. For the fender blackout light, is the only wire necessary the one that runs to the switch? I'm unsure as to whether just being in the housing is sufficient to ground it, and I'm not sure what impact my fuse box would have on the grounding issues. Same thing with the headlights–should I still run a wire from the piece that goes from the bulb to the mounting bolts?4. Finally, for running the grill blackout light wiring: I've noticed there are a series of holes along the bottom of the grill. I'm assuming these are for securing clamps that hold the wiring down, and I bought a set of these clamps from a big box store. What size bolts/screws are used for those holes? I'd check myself, but the grill is at the shop I've been working out of and I don't have access. Ultimately, I'll be combining the grill blackout lights and fender blackout light into one wire and operating them off a "B.O. Drive" switch as I don't have, or need, a fancy main light switch.P.S. When I wire the blackout lights and horn in through the fuse box, which amps would be appropriate for each? The panel light is pretty straightforward (very low), but I feel like the horn and blackout lights would require a 10 or 20. I know this isn't a conventional question in the Jeep world, I just don't want to burn any fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorcerer1 Posted June 21, 2015 Share #34 Posted June 21, 2015 ah, great reading. Bought an CJ3 myself last month, in running condition, but wiring needs redone also. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomfixer Posted June 21, 2015 Share #35 Posted June 21, 2015 I like your body work..removing the tailgate was a nice move, and it looks great. sometimes a pulley puller will get the job done when removing the steering wheel, sometimes it takes some time..the CJ-2a and G503 have several links on steering wheel removal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share #36 Posted June 23, 2015 Thanks, here are some photos after the first real day of reassembly. The more it starts to look like an MB, the more I hate those wheels . Fortunately, my set of five combat rims is ready to go, once the rest of the jeep is reassembled and the lift at the shop is available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomfixer Posted June 23, 2015 Share #37 Posted June 23, 2015 Nice details on the rear panel...is your socket wired up for the trailer? I see a lot of guys paint their jerry cans to match their jeep paint.. I like your off setting colors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share #38 Posted June 26, 2015 All lights have been wired up, all cushions, seat belts and driver's seat frame installed, and all that remains is to install the reflectors, mirror, top bow brackets and swap the redneck wheels for my combat wheels. I'm having a mechanical issue in which the jeep will not stay running at idle in neutral without me giving it gas. I've done many things between the last time it ran perfectly and it started doing this, and the things that come to mind: grill installed, lights installed, throttle cable installed and subsequently removed, choke cable installed, and a few gallons of super put in the tank. I figured out that if I put on a lot of choke, it will stay running, but this obviously is a short-term solution and something's off. It seems to be mechanical and not electrical, and if the engine stays running when I use the gas pedal, it's probably a fuel supply issue somewhere. I'll be taking it back to the mechanic sometime soon, but was wondering if there might be a simple solution. I'll post a new photo once it's home with the correct wheels and last body fittings (waiting a while for the paint to cure fully before stenciling, not taking any chances of paint peeling). Also, when I stop to top off the tank on the way home, should I use super again, or premium? The mechanic said to use the highest grade, and I know some guys put 100 octane in their jeeps, so just checking what others do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share #39 Posted June 26, 2015 I think I just got myself tied up in nomenclature... I normally just buy regular for my daily driver so I've never put a lot of thought into the higher grades. To make it simpler, should I use the highest octane available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaptonIsGod Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share #40 Posted June 26, 2015 Nice details on the rear panel...is your socket wired up for the trailer? I see a lot of guys paint their jerry cans to match their jeep paint.. I like your off setting colors Thanks, I'll still need to add the footman loops but I'm waiting until I buy a top so I make sure I get the placement right. Already had to re-drill the holes for the fender blackout light so there would be adequate room for the hood catch . Socket's not wired up, but it's NOS and flawless so I could easily enough if I wanted to tow a trailer. I was considering restoring the jerry can, but concluded I like the look of it. Glad to see someone else likes it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomfixer Posted June 26, 2015 Share #41 Posted June 26, 2015 As far as the idle....if nothing electrical was changed ie plugs/wires, points, condenser.. I would suspect fuel..... check ur filter, then removed the top half of the carb to check the fuel bowl section, where the float is.. ...check for sediment in the bottom....sometimes when new fuel is added after storage...the new gas breaks up the sediment and clogs the carb...check and clean it out ....Good luck! and since you added the choke cable...maybe check the adjustment??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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