WVUM1shooter Posted July 10, 2008 Share #1 Posted July 10, 2008 I noticed that there wasn't any good threads of web gear so I thought I would start one. Anyone got any good ideas for keeping it in good shape? The only thing I do is put it in the gun safe with a dehumidifier seems to do good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peace Posted July 14, 2008 Share #2 Posted July 14, 2008 Indeed a good idea to start a thread about this. Whenever webgear arrives at my home, before it goes to the collection, I check it totally for lint,bugs, etc. I remove that with a thorough vacuum. I only vacuum, because I dont want the webbing to fade. Even light rubbing when wet can cause discoloration or fading. The only time i use water, is to remove rust stains, using the method Bryan44 stated in another post. Even then, I dont rub the fabric. Metal attached to the webbing is checked too. In the event of loose rust crusts, that is removed. I sometimes use some very fine steel wool to do this. 0000grade works fine, and doesnt damage the finish. I use a very VERY small amount of fine gun oil sometimes, to prevent further possible corrosion. I dont use much, to avoid oil draining into the canvas. I dont think oily canvas can be cleaned without some damage. (fading etc) After all that, canvas is kept in a low light/ low humidity environment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainofthe7th Posted July 15, 2008 Share #3 Posted July 15, 2008 There is a product on the market called Can-Vac that is supposed to do wonders on old web gear....it may not be the hot ticket for collectors, but a few reenactors I know worship the stuff. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WVUM1shooter Posted July 19, 2008 Author Share #4 Posted July 19, 2008 Something that I started doing last week is cutting up a cotton sheet and wrapping the gear in it to protect the snaps from hitting each other. IT seems to be doing good, probably wouldn't be if it wasn't for the dehumidifier though lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkit Posted July 19, 2008 Share #5 Posted July 19, 2008 Every once in a while, I pick up a piece of web gear that has accumulated so much greasy dirt over the years, you can't even handle it without getting your hands dirty (like it's been lying on the floor of an oil-stained garge for 40 years or something). When it's this bad, I prepare a mixture of a capful of Fulsol in a shallow bowl of water, and go over the whole thing carefully with a soft bristle toothbrush. Then I rinse by submerging the item in cold water, and drying it in a towel. Yes, this does unavoidably lighten the color a shade, but it COMPLETELY removes the greasy dirt, and the "old web gear" smell is gone, too. Fulsol is a liquid degreaser sold by Fuller Brush Co. I bought a gallon of it years ago, from a door to door salesman, so have no idea where you can get it now. I have never found an equivalent substance. I use it to clean dirty insignia as well. It has zero abrasive properties, and removes all of that greasy dirt that insignia sometimes gets when it has been in a footlocker in a basement for 60 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly1918 Posted July 28, 2008 Share #6 Posted July 28, 2008 Well I usully leave my web gear in the same condition that I got it in. How does displaying web belts in a shadow box affect them? I am wanting to put my Cav bandoleer and a 1910 ammo belt in a case will it be safe? How could I prevent fading? will normal household light damage it? Am I going insane, the answer to that one is probably yes lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavsaddle Posted July 28, 2008 Share #7 Posted July 28, 2008 Well I usully leave my web gear in the same condition that I got it in. How does displaying web belts in a shadow box affect them? I am wanting to put my Cav bandoleer and a 1910 ammo belt in a case will it be safe? How could I prevent fading? will normal household light damage it? Am I going insane, the answer to that one is probably yes lol The West Point museum has put a new lighting system in that works with a motion sensor. The lights in the showcases are only activated if someone trips the sensor. Apparently any light has a negative affect on cloth and leather. Displaying in a showcase in a room with subdued light should not be a problem. Humidity and heat are much more serious concerns. George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOLO Posted July 28, 2008 Share #8 Posted July 28, 2008 Well I usully leave my web gear in the same condition that I got it in. How does displaying web belts in a shadow box affect them? I am wanting to put my Cav bandoleer and a 1910 ammo belt in a case will it be safe? How could I prevent fading? will normal household light damage it? Am I going insane, the answer to that one is probably yes lol I also leave it as found, maybe just a light dusting with a feather duster washing web gear in water is like washing away part of the history, I like to leave the old surplus smell on my gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WVUM1shooter Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share #9 Posted August 4, 2008 I also leave it as found, maybe just a light dusting with a feather duster washing web gear in water is like washing away part of the history, I like to leave the old surplus smell on my gear I agree with you bolo 99.5% lol I usually just run a lint roller over it to get the fuzz off of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJM Posted August 5, 2008 Share #10 Posted August 5, 2008 If an item is so dirty I just can't stand it, I will gently hand wash it in cold water and woolite. I have always had very good luck with the process as long at the impulse to scrub is ignored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'Flage Guy Posted August 10, 2008 Share #11 Posted August 10, 2008 Roger that, TJM; I've used the Woolite treatment on hundreds of web pieces with great results- no fading, bleaching, etc. (I only wash stuff like this if it really needs it- like Bolo said, I just gotta have that surplus store smell). One warning, though: I found out the hard way that Woolite dissolves old Latex, which was used to waterproof the early M-1936 musettes. I wondered why the water turned red and stunk like rubber...when the bag dried, it was still pristine, but it wasn't "stiff" any more, and there were little crumbs of dried up Latex in the fabric After that, if I got a dirty waterproofed piece, I used Joy dish soap, which worked great, and didn't de-waterproof it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colt1911 Posted August 10, 2008 Share #12 Posted August 10, 2008 What's the trick to reviving a piece thats "fossilized" so stiff that you can't get it to lay flat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingman68 Posted August 11, 2008 Share #13 Posted August 11, 2008 Speaking from experience after a drama where we had a flood and my alloy trunk I kept all my webbing in proved to be not water proof, it was a while before I noticed what had happened, I opened the lid and you can smell the mould and dampness, bearing in mind my collection is mainly Aussie based and of Commonewalth 37 Pattern origin and some 08 WW1 Gear its fairly hearty stuff, I experimented and found soaking an old mouldy ammo pouch even in weak bleach softened the canvas to the stage it disintergrated, plan B I just washed every thing soapy water and with a light brush srubbed out the mould, I dont recommend anyone do this but I did as all my stuff is khaki in colour I made up a big pot of strong tea and dunked the lot for a few days, removed and dried, nice khaki colour which 20 years later after this event the stuff is still ok today, now I keep my gear I dont display wrapped in old blankets with moth balls and its kept in the dark and high and dry, light really is what bleaches webbing so a controlled enviroment is best, some of this gear is nearly 100 years old and is still strong and usable, I did hear there are some dry cleaning fluids that are good for webbing and wont harm the gear, though wether materials available here is same as over in the good old USA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJM Posted August 11, 2008 Share #14 Posted August 11, 2008 I was told by several vets that they sometimes soaked web in coffee to restore the khaki look of scrubbed gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrhell Posted August 14, 2008 Share #15 Posted August 14, 2008 If an item is so dirty I just can't stand it, I will gently hand wash it in cold water and woolite. I have always had very good luck with the process as long at the impulse to scrub is ignored. Finally found this thread. Anyway, has anyone had success removing water stains on a canteen cover? I have a great WWII belt/suspenders harness set and the only eyesore to it is the dried water stains. I know for a fact they are water stains because I caused them over 20 years ago while "playing army" (I actually used the canteen with cold water while searching the woods for Germans). Of course back than such equipment was referred to, as my Dad put it... "surplus junk". What's that saying?.... "He who laughs last?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peace Posted August 14, 2008 Share #16 Posted August 14, 2008 mrhell, could you maybe supply us with a picture of the problem? Regards, Stijn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrhell Posted August 15, 2008 Share #17 Posted August 15, 2008 Sure, here you go. And while I'm at it, there are other stains on the suspenders. It looks like it might be dried blood, but that's what they all say. The stains don't bother me too bad, but I'd sure like to clean up the canteen cover without ruining it or making it much lighter. Thanks in advance for any help. This rig along with all my other stuff has been in storage and this is the 3rd time I've had it out in over 20 years. The cartridge belt I remember buying in the late 70s... price is still on it... paid a whopping $4.95! Damn... should have bought the entire box they had eh? Here's the stains: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom @ Snake River Posted December 17, 2008 Share #18 Posted December 17, 2008 I do a lot of military vehicle restoration so our techniques might be a little harsher then what has been talked about here. On canvas and web gear you can carefully experiment with a little compressed air and a light brush. On the more sevier side, I get vehicle straps with buckles that just totally need washed. I keep a heavy cloth or burlap bag, I put in the items and tie off with a nylon tie strap. Throw it in the washer but only use a detergent that contains no bleach what so ever. There will be a little fadeing but works out quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duffy Posted December 22, 2008 Share #19 Posted December 22, 2008 I would leave any field gear in the condition and state you find it in. Back to a previous reply on this, someone said that " it's like washing away part of history".......this is correct. In WW2 after hauling gear around, did the troops ever say " ah man.....my ammo pouch is dirty" or " I better wash this canteen out when and if I get home, so when it becomes a collectible, the person who has this...gets more for it"...... Let me think......ah......nope. If you are trying to exhibit actual items which were worn in a specific time in history, leave things as they are! It's like when some guys buy these awesome untouched, sleepy condition helmets.....full of dust and dirt, and then they go and wipe them down? Why? Just my opinion.... Duffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mruiz Posted January 2, 2016 Share #20 Posted January 2, 2016 I understand Gentleman this is and old Thread. We the younger generation should preserve. War artifacts. With that said. Question is I am trying to reserve some WWII footlockers, I am debating on putting Car wax with carnauba or just some CLP? Please don't hose me, yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now