How to get the stink out?

[curio bill]

I am considering getting into uniform collecting and have what may be a silly question. What is the best way to remove musty odors from ww2 era uniforms? Thanks, Bill

[Fiziwater]

I take my WW1 and WW2 smellies to the dry cleaners. The dry cleaning doesn't fade the tags, which a washing machine will.

[BigDogMilitaria]

Air them out in the garage or outside if you have too. I also use Fabreze. I have a basement full of uniforms and have managed to keep it from smelling like a surplus store

[curio bill]

Thanks!!!!!!!

[Garth Thompson]

Dry cleaning is fine and will kill any moth/silverfish eggs as long as the uniform doesn't have any bullion thread insignia. Dry cleaning will damage that type of insignia.

[Mitter2k1]

I personally just let them be. Dry cleaning bothers me because I do not trust anyone else with my stuff and I don't know the effects of the chemicals. Once they destroy something, there's no getting that back. Airing your uniforms out in a garage or outdoors will do quite a bit in lessening the odor. My feelings on Febreze is a different one in the fact that I don't know what's in it and I don't care to know. That's not a risk I'm prepared to take with a $100 uniform using a $5 deodorizing spray made for carpet and furniture. I don't even touch my uniforms without thoroughly washing and drying my hands. I take the approach that may seem overly cautious, but I'd rather seem crazy than roll the dice with issues that may arise years down the road. The above mentioned methods may work for others, but they are not for me. If you want to be 100% sure and use the safest method, contact a local museum and ask to speak with the person in charge of their textiles conservation. They would be a good place to start if you want to take that approach.

 

Mike

[Timberwolf]

I've found fabric softener sheets to work very well. Stuff several in the uniform (sleeves, pockets, anywhere you can fit them) and let it sit. Worked wonders on a uniform that reeked of cigarette smoke.

[Normandy1944]

I once had a uniform that was probably from a heavy smoker, as I still could smell the cigarette smoker after 70 years.

Decided to hang it outside for a few hours , and when I took it inside the smell was gone.

[mndoss]

I also agree with the method of hanging it outside and letting it air dry, that's usually what I've done with the few uniforms I got that had an odor to them. Maybe having a fan blow on it too to create some airflow.

[KurtA]

Put it a plastic bag with about 15 scented fabric softener sheets for about two weeks. Totally removes any smoke/bad smells.

[jetranger407]

If you aren't against washing, as some people are, I find the best way to get stink out, is a soak for a few hours in a light dilution of oxyclean. I've been able to soak some old WW2 naval airbase tee shirts in oxyclean, and they've come out looking good as new. And don't smell like they've been stuffed at the bottom of a moldy toolbox it's entire existence. Note: This is for cotton garments, I've done some nylon jackets, etc. Obviously before you choose to wash, make an assessment if the condition of the fabric is strong enough to withstand a light cold water soak. I can't speak as to the treatment of woolen garments, such as uniforms. As far as I know, time and fresh air is your best bet - and dry cleaning, for woolen items.

 

Anyhow, I figured I'd just toss in my two cents.

[Nkomo]

One thing that has always worked for me is to leave stinky uniforms out in a room close to my dehumidifier. After awhile, the stink disappears.

[Fiziwater]

Using a washing machine runs the risk of fading the ink on tags, as I found out the hard way with a sleeping bag cover. I've had a lot of success with dry cleaning, which I mentioned earlier. It hasn't affected any of the tags at all. Have cleaned many uniforms, wool coats and Mackinaw coats that way. Haven't tried any field packs that way although dry cleaning would probably work well on those, too.

[Costa]

DRY CLEANING IS BEST BUT, IT CAN RUIN SOME SMALL DETAILS TOO. PATCH'S-- IF THE STITCHING IS WEAK THE PATCH MY GIVE WAY DUE TO WEAK THREAD. MOST MILITARY PERSONEL WERE NOT GOOD AT SEWING. RIBBON BARS--- CLUTCH BACKS ARE FINE TO REMOVE. YOU CAN STILL SEE THE HOLES AFTER A DRY CLEANING. PIN BACKS-- A PROBLEM.IF YOU HAVE A TIGHT GROUP THAT THE VET PUT ON YOU DONT WANT TO DISTURB THEM FOR YOU WILL NOT GET THEM BACK THE SAME WAY OR POSITION. PLASTIC COATED BARS WILL BE TOAST DUE TO THE CLEANING. VETS SERIAL NUMBERS OR NAMES PRINTED ON MATERIAL WILL LIGHTEN UP IN THE CLEANING PROCESS. WHEN I GET A CLOTH ITEM I FIRST INSPECT IT. THEN VACUMN IT INSIDE AND OUT PLUS ALL SEAMS AND POCKETS. YOU ARE PLAYING WITH 70+ YEAR MATERIAL SO ITS UP TO YOU TO PRESERVE IT. MOTHS, SILVERFISH BED BUGS (YES BED BUGS DEPENDING WHERE YOU GET AN ITEM) TEMPERATURE, HANDLING, SUN LIGHT AND MORE TAKE A TOLL ON A COLLECTION. USE YOUR HEAD, DONT GO OVERBOARD.

[BROBS]

I never clean an antique cloth item.

 

As for the smell,

I keep them in a closet with many incense sticks!

 

If anyone gets a uniform from me, they probably wonder why it smells like a hippie.

 

The incense MUST be high quality Indian incense. The crap they make here in the states is just that, crap.

US incense is more like a punk (you use to start fireworks) that they dip in Glade.

 

Bugs also do not like incense sticks... never had a problem that way.

 

I NEVER would trust an antique uniform to a dry cleaner.....

just my take on it. I'm with Mike on that for sure.

-Brian

[Fiziwater]

One thing dry cleaning will fade or completely remove is any printing directly on jacket liner fabric, such as the instructions inside the M-43 field jacket.

[MattS]

I've had wool uniforms dry cleaned (Ikes, officer coats, navy officers, etc.) and never had a problem. We tend to think of our uniforms as valuable, but they are probably routinely dry cleaning high dollar suits and dresses worth a lot more. But if you don't feel comfortable doing that, the other suggestions are good too.

[cwnorma]

Practical questions to ask your dry cleaner (should you choose to go this route):

 

- Do you do the cleaning on site or do you sub-contract?

 

A: On site is better as you can discuss the cleaning of your garment with the people who will do the cleaning. If they sub-contract your item will be bundled and trucked to a large commercial facility. Once there, factory workers will do your work along with the other 20,000 garments they have to do that day.

 

- Do you use chemical brighteners?

 

A: Hopefully no, or at least they have the option to use pure dry cleaning fluid. Chemical brighteners will fluoresce under a black light. We all know about items that glow under black light... Most experienced collectors know the difference between a faint glow from a dry cleaner and the bright glow of a fake patch, but be aware of the consequences of chemical brighteners

 

- Do you use conditioners or moth-proofing?

 

A: These treatments are both oil-based and may have unintended effects on older garment dyes. Conditioners are similar to the conditioners you put in your hair. It is an oil-based solution that softens the hair. Wool is hair, and dry cleaning wool conditioners do the same thing. While not a bad thing per-se, being oil based, they may darken colors. Moth-proofing is another oil-based treatment that includes chemicals that are distasteful to moth larvae. Being oil-based, both of these treatments may darken colors.

 

Some final general thoughts. Some collectors are loathe to clean uniforms as they feel that in doing so they are somehow disturbing the history. Generally speaking less is more when it comes to preservation but there is something else to consider when dealing with old cloth. Dust is made up of up to 80% soot and ash. These components tend to run towards the base on the PH scale. Over time, dust will work its way into the threads of cloth and the jagged edges will cut and tear at those threads. This combination of effects will serve to quicken deterioration.

 

Good luck!

 

Chris