US Victory Museum Posted August 16, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 16, 2014 I have been, for some time, searching for information regarding the uniformsthat have been attributed to foreign producers for US troops in the Philippinesduring the Spanish-American War and Philippine war (1898-1902). Although actioncontinued long after the political declaration of the cessation of hostilities,in the later period of the conflict, the supply of tropical uniforms from the USwould have eventually reach the level of demand; thus, foreign produced articlesof clothing would have been from the early period of the conflict.Samples from (USMF) Ludwigh1980's collection, as well as my own, have blue rankinsignia as used by the Infantry into 1899, when it was changed to white. Specifications were not written for the khaki field uniforms until 1899. Theseuniforms do not conform to any specification; moreover, there exists a tremendousvariation among specimens; however, they do have certain commonalities that havebeen discussed in prior topics.http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/191947-us-uniforms-of-the-philippine-american-war-1898-1902/http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/186010-philippine-american-war-blouse-1899-1902/In the publication "Survey of the U.S. Army Uniforms, Weapons, and Accoutrements"by David Cole, the author asserts these uniforms to be British Pattern 95 ForeignService type (p.37); detailed photographs of 1895 foreign service uniforms inBritish museums does not support this claim. Although similar, they are distinctlydifferent from one another. (This has been discussed in a prior posting.)I have fequently seen an assertion that the US purchased uniforms en mass directlyfrom British Hong Kong; however, such assertions are never attributed to a source.As such it remains unproven. Although I have failed to discover an official Government document indicating paymentfor such clothing on a Federal level, I have found contemporary discussions publishedin periodicals of military interest that address the use of foreign sources of materialand the foreign production of American tropical field uniforms purchased on anindividual level.Some of the articles have been edited for brevity."[...] here in the Philippines we have good khaki and bad khaki. From Hong Kong weget a uniform made on the English model, of good design but a bad fit. It is ofexcellent material, lightweight; never fades, and comes back from the native laundressfresh and immaculate any number of times. But the khaki we get from America has notthus far been a success. The garments we get now are very well cut and made, but thecolor vanishes whenever touched by perspiration, leaving dirty white streaks, and theentire garment fades to a dirty white with repeated washing."Dec 29th 1900"The khaki now received in the Philippines from the United States is reported as wearingwell, holding its color, and giving general satisfaction. The Hong Kong clothing ismade of good English Khaki, holds its color and wears well, but is not made up in asgood shape as that received from the United States."Nov. 10th 1900 This is an excerpt from The Report of the Quartermaster General (Q.MGen. Brig. Gen. M.I Ludington) reprinted.The above quoted material contradict one another with regard to color durability; yet,it must be remembered the information found in the Quartermaster General's report mayreflect an institutional bias vs the opinion of the soldier in the field observing,wearing and laundering his own clothing.Color fading was still a topic of debate in late 1902."In reply to the statement in the annual report of the Quartermaster General of the Armythat American made khaki will not hold color, the Quartermaster's Department explainsthat the khaki obtained at the outbreak of the Spanish War was very inferior and wouldas stated fade to some extent. Since then, and especially in the past year, experimentshave been conducted by the Department with a result that a khaki has now been obtainedwhich has no superior in the world and will hold its color no matter how long exposed tothe wet. Some of the old khaki, however, is still being issued, and is probably some ofthis stuff which came under the eye of the Inspector General called forth in his recentcrticism."Nov. 22nd 1902The first article addresses complete uniforms, and not just British fabric, being sourcedfrom British Hong Kong. Moreover, these uniforms are being made on the English model.They are basing the cut and fit on their 1895 foreign service uniform, but not necessarilythe pattern. Although similar at first glance, they distinctly differ. There exist a large amount of variation among the material used, and how it's assembled.Some uniforms are sewn completely using treddle machines; others partially sewn by machinewith some seams finished by hand; and others still are completely sewn by hand.Some internal belts use metalic friction locks to form fit the blouse to the body; othersuse buttons of bone, ivory, or metal. Some have external hooks in the back to secure anexternal belt. Some have cloth covered buttons, others have Federal pattern buttons.The front pockets may or may nor have button hole closures. All of this variationsuggests a cottage industry of many manufacturers producing uniforms in Hong Kong, ordomestically using English materials.The production of these uniforms would continue until sufficient quantities of uniformsusing quality dyes and materials could be delivered to the Philippines by the Quartermastercorps to meet the troops' demands.This particular blouse has the cloth covered external buttons. It has an internal beltthat is closed using a metalic friction lock; it also has sewn brass hardware in therear (external) to support an externally worn belt with the uniform.It is not named and its history is unknown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US Victory Museum Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share #2 Posted August 16, 2014 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pointedcuffs Posted August 19, 2014 Share #3 Posted August 19, 2014 Nice coat and great article. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuehler Posted August 19, 2014 Share #4 Posted August 19, 2014 A very interesting coat. What is not mentioned by the QM is that the local Filipino outfitters (of which there were several well known firms) to the Spanish military located in Manila also started to supply the US military with uniforms by the end of the war as well. They may have imported some of their basic material from Hong Kong as the British were the world's premier maker of khaki drill, but were offering nearly everything an officer would need, certainly by the end of 1902. They began sourcing insignia and other uniform items from US suppliers, sometimes under their own label. Enlisted men who chose to purchase tailored uniforms could do so as well. So initially it appears that Hong Kong itself was were some were made, but that would have changed as QM supplies from the States improved and local makers in Manila got into gear with their new American clients. So the "cottage industries" mentioned were more likely in Manila itself. As for the coat shown, just where it was made is not clear without a label of course. I have seen Cuban made uniforms with cover buttons as well. CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwigh1980 Posted August 19, 2014 Share #5 Posted August 19, 2014 Another great coat Mike. To add with what CB mentioned, It has been recorded in the unit document of units that served in the Philippines prior to 1902 of a sizable Chinese population in Manila many of who were engaged as merchants. It is purely speculation on my part that some of these Chinese, well known for garment and laundry services may have engaged in uniform fabrication. This idea falls inline with ties to Hong Kong. We can't forget that there was already a long established trade network established by the Chinese in this area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIl Sanow Posted August 19, 2014 Share #6 Posted August 19, 2014 Has anyone tried to look what's under the cloth of the covered buttons? Is the base smooth, British or what? G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US Victory Museum Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share #7 Posted August 24, 2014 I have recently discovered documentation of that which had always been suspected. Manila. (Received February 12, 1899 - 3:00am)Adjutant-General, Washington: "Have contracts with Shanghai and Hongkong (sic) houses for 50,000 khakiuniforms, 20,000 to be delivered in March, rest within four months; have10,000 white uniforms suits delivered. No khaki or white uniforms requiredfrom United Stares, only 50 two-horse wagons required. [...]" [Elwell Stephen] Otis. [Maj-Gen. VIII Corps] Major-General Otis would become Military Governer of the Philippines in August, 1899. Although I have no doubt that uniforms were also produced locally, and offered for sale to both officers and soldiers on an individual basis, the above communication by Major General Otis with the Adjutant-General in Wash. D.C. confirms that there were military contracts with British Hong Kong to produce unforms in quantity for American troops. The date of this communication also confirms these uniforms were produced early in the conflict. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US Victory Museum Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted August 24, 2014 Has anyone tried to look what's under the cloth of the covered buttons? Is the base smooth, British or what? G The buttons on my blouse are tightly covered with cloth that do not allow inspection of the reverse side; however, the front surface is completely flat without die embossed adornment. Msn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIl Sanow Posted August 24, 2014 Share #9 Posted August 24, 2014 I wondered if perhaps they were Brit, then covered to obscure original source. Has anyone noticed the old Bannerman catalogs? They listed Brit. khaki coats. I have always wondered if any saw US service, sans Brit. buttons, of course. I once had a similar coat -- 2 pocket, high collar, inside belt, khaki straps, US buttons, etc. I have seen photos of similar coats in use, but could not connect their use to troops in PI. (Another Forum member owns it now -- with Hospital Steward chevrons.) I found the photos at Carlisle Barracks -- now US Army Soldier Center. This is an interesting variation. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunbunnyB/3/75FA Posted August 24, 2014 Share #10 Posted August 24, 2014 i've got that reprint of the "27" catalog, as cheap as they were, i'm sure that there were a Lot of the brit. khaki bought by the troops to suppliment the issued items. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuehler Posted September 1, 2014 Share #11 Posted September 1, 2014 The Otis document does show that initially uniforms were obtained from China. The local Filipino suppliers would of course not yet be ready to supply much of anything at this early date. The situation would be changed by 1901 however, when the war was "officially" concluded and the US firmly in place in the PI. Also as mentioned, Manila ( and the rest of PI ) has always had a huge Chinese population and they are still the among the most prominent merchants and business men today. Most of the tailors in Manila during the American period were Chinese. CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRP Posted September 2, 2014 Share #12 Posted September 2, 2014 Does anyone have any more info on the blouses with the cloth covered buttons? I have had one for years and was not sure what it was but always thought it was from this period. Any photos of these being worn by U.S. troops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuehler Posted September 2, 2014 Share #13 Posted September 2, 2014 Cloth covered buttons were a stylistic affectation of the period seen on private purchase coats. I do not believe them to have been on US Government issue. I have seen these on one coat that was made in Cuba and a few that were made in PI and I think even the US. It is possible these items were intended as off duty walking out clothing as they were of course not regulation. CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwigh1980 Posted September 2, 2014 Share #14 Posted September 2, 2014 The 1st Colorado Volunteer Infantry, left the Philippines in 1899. Many of the enlisted wore these style of coats home with the cloth covered buttons. I have a photograph of one wearing such a coat, have to dig it out to post. As to the issue of the cloth covered button, I theorized it was due to lack of eagle buttons. With the initial units that went to the Philippine in 1898, I am sure massive quantities of buttons were not something supply or the quartermaster corp was too concerned with, outside what each soldier carried in his housewife or sewing kit. Besides Cuba, and Puerto Rico, this was the first large scale expeditionary force the U.S. Army fielded and so far from the U.S. (nearly 7,000 miles away). Pretty amazing when you think about it. The logistics involved were quite remarkable. Terry in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny12550 Posted October 27, 2020 Share #15 Posted October 27, 2020 Hi, I have an opportunity to buy one of these "Philippine" theater uniforms with the covered buttons just like the one pictured. This one has no stripes. What would be a decent price for one of these uniforms? They seem pretty rare, but I don't want to over pay. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosshark Posted October 27, 2020 Share #16 Posted October 27, 2020 Hi, I used to have one just like the pictured on and was told it was a British made style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwigh1980 Posted October 28, 2020 Share #17 Posted October 28, 2020 $300-$400. Rare, yes and very historically significant in my opinion however there is not a large collector base that collects this material . If the coat is named and can be tied to a unit that served in the Philippines maybe a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agate hunter Posted June 2, 2021 Share #18 Posted June 2, 2021 I spotted one of these uniforms with the cloth buttons on ebay a while back, saved the image. 20th Infantry, January 1900. Taken in Manila. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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