Vintage Firearms In Safe

[kilgarvan]

I have 2 WW1 era vintage pistols in a modern safe. I'm relatively new to collecting. My question is does anybody put "something" in the safe to take away moisture? Not sure even what I mean so please excuse my ignorance. Also, is it ok for these guns to sit on the "pad" that comes with these safes? Should they rest on acid free paper?

 

Thanks and any insights into the storage of vintage firearms welcomed.

[jgawne]

You really need to do something. The humidity will build up in the safe (most probably depending upon the environment) and eventually form rust. There are any number of things you can do, like put in dehumidification blocks and such (which you periodically have to heat up to refresh), but the simplest thing to do (which should be done in any case, is make sure they have a light coating of oil. especially in the barrels.

 

I am not up to speed on all the latest developments in modern chemicals for this, but at the very least use something like WD-40 or break free.

 

I am sure there are any number of sites on the web about gun storage, or people with a lot larger collections that may have some ideas.

[TLeo]

check any of the web sites like gander mtn or natchez supply, and you can find some idea of what you need. They have silica packs and other items you can use to keep the air dry. You do need to use something.

[oldfireguy]

We don't have a humidity problem here but I pull all my firearms out at least twice a year to check them and wipe them down. They make heating rods and I use silica packs just in case. I've never had an issue in all the years I have been collecting.

[normaninvasion]

I'm from NY as well, and deal with high humidity in summer and bone dry in winter. I have used the silica packs, that can be reused. Just heat in the oven to dry out. These can be bought at Cabelas. I also strip and re oil every year.

[Dave]

Yup... a safe will protect from unauthorized use and theft. You have to do additional steps to protect the weapons from rust and corrosion...

[Bill in VA]

A Goldenrod or a light bulb (lit, of course) will both do wonders at controlling humidity in your gun safe too.

[Dagda]

In addition to the suggestions above, even if your safe is fireproof, you should not just lay the pistols on the shelf inside the safe. Put them in a gun rug or a gun sack. Even a modern fireproof safe will not keep the metal finish free from damage if the safe is in a room with heat, fire and smoke etc. In this case a few extra dollars spent on a little additional protection will go along way to keeping the pistols in their current condition. The rug and/or sack will also keep them from getting any damage as you take them in and out of the safe and put other things into your safe next to them. Good luck.

[teufelhunde.ret]

I'm from NY as well, and deal with high humidity in summer and bone dry in winter. I have used the silica packs, that can be reused. Just heat in the oven to dry out. These can be bought at Cabelas. I also strip and re oil every year.

 

Agree... These work well in the south as well.

[kilgarvan]

Thanks for all the help and advise. Here is a pic of my first 1911 I'm trying to protect. All original World War 1 vintage, no arsenal rework, manufactured 1918. Came with two extra magazines.

 

Thanks again.

[BROBS]

I would get that rust stopped or it's going to spread like cancer regardless of what you do.

 

-Brian

[kilgarvan]

Hey Brian, thanks. In terms of stopping the rust, do you suggest just oiling it? It does have some pitting, but not too much, for lack of another way to say it, "traditional rust". I didn't think you could stop pitting that was already there and as long as you keep oiled should be ok. Again, I'm a beginner at this so any advice welcomed. I know this 1911 is nothing pretty or special, but, is all I could afford at this point. It did come with a full rig, belt, 1917 marked holster, first aid pouch with unopened kit dated 1910, and two mills 1917 marked magazine pouches. I knew the pistol was a little "salty" but solid and went for the deal as it was complete with rig. I was thinking of looking to replace the slide as the "insides" of the gun much better condition.

 

Thanks again and thoughts welcomed.

[kilgarvan]

Pic of rig set. Again thoughts on preserving / stopping any additional damage welcomed. Does the wear show neglect or "combat" use wear?

[BROBS]

well... it sort of depends on how comfortable you are doing work on the metal yourself...

you always run some sort of risk of messing it up, however I feel this is pretty safe (as long as you take your time and make sure you aren't over-doing it).

 

I have used with success a product called "Blue Wonder".

It is ammonia based and safe to use on antique bluing.

http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

 

What you do, is soak some 0000 steel wool in it and put it on the rust as well... then lightly work over the rust until its gone without "scrubbing".

What I do first, and to get into the pits is use the stuff on a bronze brush and really get into the pits... then use the 0000 steel wool with blue wonder to remove the bronze it leaves behind.

 

after you have done this, you then clean it all off really well... and re-oil everything. this stuff will remove all traces of oil.

First I use Kano-Kroil to "treat" the metal... then Ballistol as a "gun oil".

 

I have done this on numerous guns, from pre-ww2 onward without any ill effects or return of rust.

If you go too hard though you can remove the surrounding remaining bluing so you just have to watch it.

 

The problem with only soaking the rust spots in oil... is that the pooling of the oil in these areas will actually have an opposite effect and draw more moisture into the rust.

 

Hope this helps and if you have any questions feel free to ask here or PM me.

-Brian

[ccyooper]

The first thing I would do is take the pistol out of the rig and keep the rig outside of your safe. The leather and old material are moisture magnets. Get a pistol rack or a proper gun/sack made for storage if you want to lay it down. I'd take a little hoppes 9 or one of the other products mentioned and rub it very gently with 0000 steel wool to stabilize what is going on. Then I would use a protective oil or barricade type finish to cover it. Otherwise it looks like a decent early colt.

[BROBS]

Oh certainly about it being a nice one. I think you would be surprised at how nice it will look with that rust gone.

 

I would love to find an unmessed with one like yours.

 

-Brian

[m1ashooter]

The first thing I would do is take the pistol out of the rig and keep the rig outside of your safe. The leather and old material are moisture magnets. Get a pistol rack or a proper gun/sack made for storage if you want to lay it down. I'd take a little hoppes 9 or one of the other products mentioned and rub it very gently with 0000 steel wool to stabilize what is going on. Then I would use a protective oil or barricade type finish to cover it. Otherwise it looks like a decent early colt.

 

 

I concurr with this method to to knock the rust down. Don't use WD40 as it gums stuff up. I live in Houston which tends to be a bit humid. I just rub the out side of my weapons with Hoppes 9 and they are good to go.

 

Nice 1911. You can also get a product call damprid and that will help also.

[Spathologist]

I currently live in Florida, pretty much warm and humid with salty air year-round.

 

I keep my vintage pistols in kraft boxes, wrapped in a sheet of vpc paper and then with brown waxed paper. It's worked well, so far.

 

If you don't shoot them, Break-Free makes a collector's oil that I like to use.

[BROBS]

I apologize to you guys who use hoppes 9 but have you ever tried any other product? I tried hoppes 9 and found it useless for any purpose.

 

Just my personal opinion on hoppes 9.

-Brian

[kilgarvan]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I'll try them out and lets see how it goes. I don't store the 1911 in the holster (only for the pic), so, thanks for confirming that's the way to go.

 

I like the idea of a gun rug or gun sack. My only concer there would be the sack holding moisture in??? Are they for the purpose of keeping dry?? Thoughts?

 

Regards to all and thanks.

[El Bibliotecario]

I've kept several WW1 era handguns in a safe for decades without goldenrods, dessicant, etc, and they have yet to rust. I must be doing something wrong. I store them in archival-quality acid free cardboard boxes, and take them out every year or two to be wiped down. Its my opinion that periodic inspection is superior to any technical solution.

[hyrax222]

Light coat of oil, place in gun sock and install a "golden rod".

[BROBS]

I've kept several WW1 era handguns in a safe for decades without goldenrods, dessicant, etc, and they have yet to rust. I must be doing something wrong. I store them in archival-quality acid free cardboard boxes, and take them out every year or two to be wiped down. Its my opinion that periodic inspection is superior to any technical solution.

You also live in the incredibly arid southwest....

 

Try living with high humidity.

 

As for a "sock" I use the silicone rifle socks... and cut them down. They fit about 3 pistols and the socks at walmart are $5.

 

I have found an enclosed "case" or "rug" tends to hold moisture.

 

-Brian

[kilgarvan]

I like the idea of an acid free box to store them.

 

Thanks again

[BROBS]

to me, a cardboard box in a humid environment is about the worst thing you could store a firearm in...

Keep in mind that the guy who said this lives in the Southwest where there is hardly any relative humidity.

YMMV.

-Brian