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Preserving medals


ccandgc
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Hi,

I was wondering what the best way is to preserve the ribbon on a medal? I want to display it in a shadow box with other medals that are new/in better shape. I have my great grandfathers WW1 and American Defense medals that are original. They are not moth eaten, just very tired. I dont want to tape them on the backing. Should I use the pin? Its not falling apart, but I dont want to risk it.....

 

Any info greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Chad

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My recommendation is to sew a couple "loops" into the backing material of the shadow box. Run the pin through the loops and hang the medal from it. Then, sew the medal to the backing by the ring of the pendant. This will keep the weight off the pin. The medal is then secure and won't flop around if the shadow box is handled. It also is non-evasive. DO NOT use felt as a backing material as the acids in it will eat away the finish of the medal. Use velvet instead. Hope this helps.

 

-Ski

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Hi Ski,

thanks for the info....I never even thought of that! I will certainly mount all my medals this way.

 

Thanks!

Chad

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ItemCo16527

Brilliant idea, Ski! thumbsup.gif

Thanks for sharing it. I may have to try this with my grandfather's Good Conduct Medal, its ribbon bar, and lapel buttons when I have some free time.

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IMPERIAL QUEST

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...ic=6321&hl=

 

Here are a few ideas.

 

 

 

DO NOT use felt as a backing material as the acids in it will eat away the finish of the medal.

 

Ski, old buddy :) I can tell you that I have had medals in display and Riker cases in direct contact with felt for over 20 years and not one of the medals shows any tarnish, corrosion, or acid damage whatsoever. As a matter of fact, the items look exactly the way that they did when I first placed them there. Have you had a bad experience?

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http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/ind...ic=6321&hl=

 

Here are a few ideas.

Ski, old buddy :) I can tell you that I have had medals in display and Riker cases in direct contact with felt for over 20 years and not one of the medals shows any tarnish, corrosion, or acid damage whatsoever. As a matter of fact, the items look exactly the way that they did when I first placed them there. Have you had a bad experience?

 

This advice came from straight a book on British medals, and something I always stuck with. I'm sure felt comes with differing amounts of acid in it from production, thus your success. The only bad experience I have personally witnessed is using foam as a backing material. A couple medals I have had the the finish on the back destroyed from the effects of crystalization of foam in old clear plastic medal boxes.

 

-Ski

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IMPERIAL QUEST
This advice came from straight a book on British medals, and something I always stuck with. I'm sure felt comes with differing amounts of acid in it from production, thus your success. The only bad experience I have personally witnessed is using foam as a backing material. A couple medals I have had the the finish on the back destroyed from the effects of crystalization of foam in old clear plastic medal boxes.

 

-Ski

 

 

I can definitely see where the foam material you are referring to could do some damage, and I know exactly the kind you are talking about. It even smells strong when you purchase it. The consistency and ingredients in the material tend to be activated when temperatures reach a certain level and react with metal. On a parallel, I remember years ago, there were small clear plastic sleeves used by coin collectors that would turn them green...not a good thing, and from what I know, the damage caused is irreversible. :unsure:

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Raidercollector

I have read from conserver's to use velvet or velvtine for your riker mounts.Most of my medals have this as backing. I do pad up my riker mounts so the medals don't slide around than use velvet. Thats my 2 cents.

Nick

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  • 2 months later...
This advice came from straight a book on British medals, and something I always stuck with. I'm sure felt comes with differing amounts of acid in it from production, thus your success. The only bad experience I have personally witnessed is using foam as a backing material. A couple medals I have had the the finish on the back destroyed from the effects of crystalization of foam in old clear plastic medal boxes.

 

-Ski

 

Hello,

How do you make a medal from ww2 shine and last long without damaging it??

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My opinion would be if it doesn't already shine don't try to make it. Clean it, yes, polish it, no. Use Vulpex to clean, after testing on a very small spot usually on the back just to make sure, and then use Renaissance wax to keep it from tarnishing or otherwise discoloring.

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My opinion would be if it doesn't already shine don't try to make it. Clean it, yes, polish it, no. Use Vulpex to clean, after testing on a very small spot usually on the back just to make sure, and then use Renaissance wax to keep it from tarnishing or otherwise discoloring.

 

I concur. Never shine a medal. The patena on it already needs to stay on it. Once you polish it, it is gone forever.

 

-Ski

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I have my great grandads medals from WW1, he went to Gallipoli and was killed in action there, his medals were mounted in a nice teak frame behind glass on period cardboard, it also has the condolence letter from the King, these items are still in very fine shape but the ribbons are due for replacing, these have been inside out of the sun for 90 years, the ribbons shouldnt have faded but the medals are glued by the ribbons on back of the cardboard, I have often wanted to restore this unit but resist the temptation to mess with it, nice new colourfull ribbons may make it look odd given the age of it. I also agree dont polish medals leave them in there natural state, My greatdads WW1 War Medal is almost black from tarnish and these medals are cupro silver it can stay like that. The old 1914 Star Medal has just gone a lovely shade of brown, they look old!!!!!

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I have a old collection of medals from the 30's. The ribbons have faded and basically are disintegrating. While smog and no air conditioning helped in their poor condition, light is their main enemy.

 

Suggest strongly that any display with glass cover should be the UV protective glass that is now available. You can get it at frame stores. Obviously having displays that might be exposed to direct sunlight is not good. Even indoor lighting will cause damage. If you have lights directly aimed at your displays they should be off when not viewing.

 

This is why museums have greatly reduced allowing flash photography.

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