U.S. Army Shirts 1900 to 1919

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 26: Just to show how a poor quality period photograph combined with a hasty first impression can be misleading, I've placed the early flannel shirt next to the one mentioned above. Upon closer examination, the rectangular pocket flap clearly indicates that he is wearing a 1918 pattern shirt. The shirt's collar was likely turned down while shaving.

[world war I nerd]

1918 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt with One Breast Pocket

Specification No. (if any), unknown, adopted on ??, ??, 1918

 

Traits of the 1918 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt with One Breast Pocket:

 

Unknown

 

With a view to conserving wool, the final flannel shirt of the war (if it was ever produced) was redesigned to have just one breast pocket. It is not known if the single pocket shirt ever made if off the drawing board or if it was ever manufactured in limited quantities for field trials or if it ever went into full scale production. It is my opinion that this shirt was scheduled to go into production late in 1918 or early in 1919. However, the signing of the Armistice on November 11, 1918 brought hostilities to a halt, and thus canceled the Army’s need for additional flannel shirts. Regardless, America’s Munitions had this to say about the late war flannel shirt:

 

Another important cloth economy came when designers cut off the right-hand pocket of the O.D. shirt, on the ground that the pocket was seldom used.

 

America’s Munitions 1917 – 1918, 1919, page 458

The 1919 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt

Specification No. 415-3-1387, adopted on May 10, 1919

 

Traits of the 1919 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt:

 

Unknown

 

I have virtually no information to offer on this last specification number for the WW I era olive drab flannel shirts.

 

Can any forum member help out with details on the 1919 Flannel Shirt?

 

[world war I nerd]

Khaki Cotton Shirts

 

I know that by the late 1890’s the Quartermaster Department was experimenting with khaki cotton shirts for use in the tropics. Presumably, sometime between 1902 and 1917 some of the regulation shirts were also made from khaki cotton. Unfortunately, I have no information to back this up. I do know that the 1912 Uniform Specifications only listed the olive drab flannel shirt for enlisted men. But by the time the 1917 Uniform Specifications were published, there were two

different regulation shirts available:

 

130. Shirts, Olive-drab flannel – As issued.

131. Shirts, Olive-drab cotton – As issued.

Regulations and Notes for the Uniform of the United States: Enlisted Men, 1917

 

Prior to WW I Regular Army soldiers were allowed to choose between cotton and wool stockings, both of which were issued by the Quartermaster Department. Cotton stockings were available for any soldier who was allergic to wool. It’s entirely possible, for the same reason that an olive drab or khaki cotton shirt was available instead of the flannel shirt that consisted of 80% wool. Nevertheless, due to the sudden shortage of olive drab and khaki military clothing by the summer of 1917, caused by the unexpected expansion of the American Army, the Quartermaster Corps wasted no time in abolishing the Olive Drab Cotton Shirt as an article of equipment.

 

Photo No. 27: Of the three military cotton shirts shown, the first two, worn by an officer and a black soldier both look to be private purchase. The cotton shirt worn by the machine gunner on the Mexican Border circa 1917 – 1918 could possibly be Quartermaster issued.

 

Does anybody have any additional information on regulation cotton shirts between 1902 and 1919?

 

End of post. Thanks for looking.

 

 

[jgawne]

cool stuff. On photo 21 it is quite possible that when made this all looked the same color. Some dye lots (especially if they were not well done due to the shortage of it), doesn't set properly and changes color over time (even if not exposed to light). And the different parts might have just been cut from different dye lots.

 

One of the lesser known things of WW1 was that Germany's freight submarine, the Deutschland, made two trips to the US before we entered the war. one of the things they brought over to trade for vital war stocks was OD dye.

[Mitter2k1]

This is an outstanding thread! Great job putting this together with the excellent photos.

 

Mike

[Cavdoc83]

WWI nerd, you've outdone yourself again! I do have a number of questions and observations, though:

 

Photo#1 - This pic doesn't seem to fit your description. When you say "left", do you mean our left as we view it, or left as the subjects face us? In these pics, I see no white shirts. The light colored shirt in the right pic may very well be a chambray shirt. I wish that someone would turn up an original of this item. I have another photo or two that I can post later that show some of these shirts.

Photos #2 & 3 - I think that this reclining private may have his collar rolled under. However....

Photo #4 - ...these shirts ARE collarless, and I have NEVER seen pics of them before!

Photos #6 & 7 - The chap with the dog seems to be wearing the standard issue shirt from the period (1902/04) The guy to HIS left has the shirt that looks like the USMC shirt.

Photos #8 & 9 - I'm not sure how, in photographs, you could tell between the 1904 and 1908 shirts.

Photo #12a - I wasn't aware that Brian Keith was that old!

Photos -> #16 - Once again, I don't see how you can speculate on material from a photo, but I'm being really nit-picky!

Photo # 24 - I don't see the reinforcement extending to the cuff. On the contrary, I see a curve down to the cuff vent reinforcement. I also don't think that we can assume that, just because a shirt bears collar disks, that it is a 1918 shirt with the eyelets. It's just as likely that Private Snuffy pushed the disks through the collar of his 1917 shirt to conform with orders or current fashion.

 

This is really a great photo essay. As I said, I may have some others to dig out and post. Keep up the good work. I am learning SO much. (And I hope that the Admins consider pinning this thread.)

[TrenchRat]

B,

 

Awesome stuff once again. Always look forward to your postings. Another keeper...

 

Look forward to more and more of these...

 

G

[BEAST]

Fantastic reference! Thank you for hard work!

[GWS]

Pic 02 shows what appear to be M1903 Springfield rifles in the arms rack. That would make it at least 1903 and more likely 1904 or later. A close up of the rifles and arms rack may reveal even more detail as far as the date goes(1 stock bolt or no stock bolt, no upper pistol rack etc.). Hope this helps.

[world war I nerd]

First off: thanks to all for your feedback, all of which is appreciated.

 

Second: Hi Cavdoc83,

 

I really appreciate your observations. Thanks for taking the time to post them. But I’ll need to address them photo by photo…

Photo 1: Thanks for pointing out the fact that I got the “right” and “left” … ahem … backwards! My apologies right should read left and left should read right. I’ll work on my proof reading skills. As for the colors of the shirts, I have never personally seen any examples of the blue wool, blue chambray or muslin shirts, and I was guessing which was which based on the various shades of gray in the black and white photographs. I was worried that this would get me into trouble. I will refrain from doing this on future posts.

 

Photos 2 & 3: I too initially thought that the sleeping private had his shirt collar turned down or at least until I saw the collarless shirts in the other photograph. However there really is no way to know for sure if his shirt is collarless or if the collar has been turned down.

 

Photo 7: I went back and had a good hard look at this photo. Of the 9 men in it: 1 is wearing a service coat; 4 are wearing a shirt with patch pockets and NO pocket flaps; 2 are definitely wearing USMC style shirts WITH pointed pocket flaps (the guy to the immediate left of the soldier holding the dog and the first soldier on the right hand side of the photo in the back row); and I just can’t tell what style of shirt is being worn by last 2 men.

 

Photo 8: When posting I had (and still have) no idea what the 1904 Flannel Shirt looked like. However, I did know what the 1908 Flannel Shirt looked like; based on photocopies I have of some of the pages from Specifications for Clothing and Equipage and Clothing and Equipage Materials published by the Office of the Quartermaster General in 1907. If the 1904 Flannel Shirt’s appearance was similar to that of the 1908 Flannel Shirt, then I may have unwittingly called the 1904 Shirt a 1908 Shirt because I thought that they were the same pattern shirt.

 

Photo 15: You’re probably right; I shouldn’t have mentioned that his shirt was a wool/cotton blend. I did so because of the fact that the wool/cotton flannel shirts were adopted in 1913 and the photo of the soldier wearing the Mexican bandoleer was taken in 1916, some three years later. It just seemed logical to me that by then the 1913 pattern shirts would have been the main flannel shirt in circulation.

 

Photo 24: I’ve personally seen a number of flannel shirts with oval elbow patches and factory made grommet holes for the collar discs. Plus, I could probably post 20 or so photos of WW I Doughboys wearing collar discs on their shirts. Granted, 20 or 30 or even 100 photos showing the same thing doesn’t mean that that thing was issued. But it’s also pretty hard to ignore. Nevertheless, I’ll be the first to admit that I could be wrong on that point.

 

In regard to the “oblong” or rectangular elbow patch … it’s kind of a weird set up. I can clearly see the elbow patch in the photo (which is very faint) because I used to own an example of this style of shirt (which also had reinforced eyelets on the collar). I’ve only ever seen one shirt with the rectangular elbow patches, so I don’t imagine that they are very common.

 

I hope that these comments do not come across as defensive, because they are not meant to be. I may be many things, but I am not a know it all. So by all means ... please do continue to point out where I’ve gone wrong. My primary goal for creating a post like this is actually quite selfish. I want to learn more about the subject. And, by the way, yes, please post any photos that you feel are relevant.

 

Third: GWS thanks for chiming in, in regard to the possible date of photo number one.

 

Below is an enlargement of the gun rack. When you have time, please see what you can make of it.

 

Friendly regards to all,

 

Brian

[world war I nerd]

I meant to post these photos earlier, but I was having some “issues” with completing the above post so I left it unfinished.

Shirt Collars

Photo No. 28: The shirt collars of the olive drab flannel shirts were frequently turned up or over the collar of the service coats, especially when the woolen service coat was worn. This was an attempt to protect the neck from chaffing, as the following three photographs circa 1906, 1909 and 1917 show.

[world war I nerd]

1909 Olive Drab Flannel Shirt

Photo No. 29: On the right this shirt collar, which was posted elsewhere on the forum, was obviously made specifically to accept the four collar discs that were authorized for the enlisted men's 1909 Service coat. I suspect that it was either tailor made or a non-regulation private purchase shirt. Then again, there’s always the remote possibility that it was a regulation issued shirt.

[world war I nerd]

Variations of the U.S. Army Olive Drab Flannel Shirt

 

Photo No. 30: If you look closely at the shirts worn in this photo, you’ll notice that two of the three shirts worn seem to be anything but regulation! The collarless shirt in the back row appears to be olive drab, but it certainly doesn’t match any of the shirts shown in this post. The shirt worn by the left hand soldier in the front row looks like it may have pleats on the pockets. However, this could be and probably is just wrinkles. The soldier to his right is not wearing a shirt (which is what I first thought it was). It looks more like an olive drab fatigue coat.

 

Does anybody have any thoughts?

[world war I nerd]

Photo No 31: Here’s a close up of the garments discussed above.

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 32: Here’s another oddball shirt without a collar. It certainly looks like one of the 1911 to 1917 style olive drab flannel shirts, except for the missing collar. As unlikely as it may seem, I suppose it’s possible that there was a variation of the flannel shirt made without a collar. But I doubt it. Careful inspection of the shirt shows that the sewing around the neck opening was skillfully done. Perhaps the shirt was field modified or a private purchase shirt?

 

Any guesses?

 

The short sleeved shirt on the right was definitely field modified, as they appear to have been hacked off and the edges left raw! I wonder what his Platoon and First Sergeant had to say about his well ventilated new shirt.

[Backtheattack]

Interesting thread. Thank you for posting. Good "timeline".

[world war I nerd]

U.S.M.C. Khaki Flannel Shirts

 

As I am familiar with most of the articles of clothing issued by the USMC between 1912 and 1919, I am no expert. In regard to the clothing issued by the Marine Corps prior to 1912, I must admit that I know very little. Therefore, I was hesitant to include USMC shirts in this thread, but I opted to do so, if for no other reason, than to illustrate the difference between the Army and USMC issued shirts. If anyone has better information, please use this forum and this thread in particular, to sound off in the written form, via a post … Thanks.

 

From what I’ve read, the USMC issued two similar styles of khaki flannel shirts during this period: the 1904 Khaki Flannel Shirt and the 1917 Khaki Flannel Shirt, but there could be others.

Pattern 1904 USMC Khaki Flannel Shirt

 

Common traits of the 1904 USMC Khaki Flannel Shirt:

 

Made from khaki/tan shirting flannel

Fully buttoned front (not a pullover) secured by five buttons

Rolling Collar

Khaki or tan buttons

Two breast patch pockets with a straight bottom

Each pointed pocket flap is secured by a single button

Oval shaped elbow patch on each sleeve

 

Photo No. 33: Presumably all three of these shirts are the pattern 1904 Khaki Flannel Shirt. Judging by period photos, the shade of the khaki shirting flannel used was relatively light, and it closely matched the color of the pattern 1912 khaki cotton Summer Field Uniform.

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 34: The oval shaped elbow patch can just be made out in each of these photographs of the USMC khaki flannel shirt.

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 35: The photo on the left shows the USMC khaki flannel shirt being worn by two ‘boots’ or recruits circa 1917. Note how the color closely matches the pattern 1912 Summer Field Trousers that are worn with and without canvas leggings.

 

The right hand photo, which I believe was taken in Germany in 1919, shows the difference between the USMC issued khaki flannel shirt and the Army issued olive drab flannel shirt. In January of 1918 General Pershing decreed that the AEF would no longer stock two different styles of uniforms, i.e. Army and USMC. After that the Marines serving in the AEF were resupplied exclusively with Army olive drab shirts, breeches, service coats, overseas caps and overcoats. The fact that this corporal is wearing a USMC issued shirt in 1919 is because all of the Army barracks bags and USMC seabags, which had been in storage, were eventually delivered to the troops who made up the Army of Occupation. A spare khaki flannel shirt was likely stored inside the corporal’s seabag. Again, note the shirt’s light khaki/tan color.

 

Both men are wearing olive drab Army Overseas Caps and spiral wrap puttees. Both the olive drab Army and USMC khaki flannel shirts are being worn. In addition the corporal is wearing olive drab Army service breeches while the private appears to be wearing USMC forest green winter field trousers! If other Marines wore similar mixtures of khaki, olive drab and forest green clothing, then a company of Marines on parade late in 1918 or early in 1919 must have been a multi-hued, blotchy, mottled spectacle!

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 36: All of these Marines from the 96^th Company, 6^th Marine Regiment, photographed at Quantico, Virginia on October 22, 1917, are wearing matching USMC issued khaki flannel shirts. Note there are no dark colored shirts present.

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 37: You’ll notice in these two photos that three of the four USMC issued khaki flannel shirts shown are much darker in color. In fact, in the black and white photos they appear to be identical to the forest green color of the pattern 1912 Winter Field Trousers. Could it be that the pattern 1917 USMC Khaki Flannel Shirt was made from a much darker shade of khaki shirting flannel? Note that the only Marine wearing the lighter khaki/tan flannel shirt is wearing it in conjunction with the matching summer field trousers.

[world war I nerd]

Photo No. 38: Again, here all four Marines are wearing the darker shade of USMC issued flannel shirt with their forest green winter field trousers.

 

Hmmm … Is this just a coincidence or did the USMC manufacture a dark khaki shirt in 1917 to match the forest green trousers?

[TrenchRat]

B,

 

Not sure how much I can add to the conversation, but here are a few images of the shirts I recently aquired.

 

This particular shirt seems to be wool, but feels a tad finer in material than the other I will show.

There is no extant label in the shirt.

 

 

[TrenchRat]

B,

 

Here is the other shirt I have.

Same in construction just a more uncomfortable feeling garment.

The lining, however, feels like an old T shirt, but as you can see, there is not much to it...

No extant label in this shirt either.

Both shirts do show use, including a stain around the edge of the collar.

 

 

[dave peifer]

ww1 nerd........excellent research,excellent period photographs,very usefull.......thanks for posting.........dave