Cary91 Posted January 3, 2014 Share #1 Posted January 3, 2014 OK guys have to pick your brains. just picked up this B3 jacket and the zipper was stuck about 3 teeth from the bottom. Well with a tooth pick, a miniscule amount of wd40, and some perseverance I was able to free the zipper pull and get it down to the stop. Though to my dismay I found that the bottom 3/4" is virtually destroyed. Now my question to you guys is any ideas on a repair/replacement for this. I really don't want to replace the whole zipper, unless I was to find an original, but even then, I am not sure if I want to do that anyways. Well let's here the ideas boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted January 3, 2014 Share #2 Posted January 3, 2014 Unfortunately, frozen or "toothless" zippers are a fact of life when it comes to such jackets. You did well to free it up as you did...I'd be satisfied with that and call it quits. As for repairing it, as far as I'm aware that would be a non-starter both practically and economically. Also, replacing it would really be a no-no. I once discussed this with Gary Eastman (owner of the famous Eastman Leather Company...makers of the world's finest replica flying jackets) He explained that re-fitting zippers to original shearling jackets, whilst theoretically possible, is fraught with problems. Basically, the old shearling has a tendency to dry out. If a broken zipper was removed, the shearling would be weakened even further, due to the old stitch holes which would be just like the little perforations around a postage stamp which are designed to tear easily. In attempting to attach a new zipper the sewing-machine needle would likely punch right through the weakened area it and damage irreparably. As it happens, I have a WW2 B3 which has a period replacement zipper (ie done back in WW2) It's actually an AIr Ministry marked zipper from an RAF Irvin sheepskin flying jacket, but it would have been added when the shearling was still supple and not in danger of tearing as it would be today, some 70 years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuddy Posted January 3, 2014 Share #3 Posted January 3, 2014 Carey mine did a similar thing , gutted wasn't the word !! I wouldn't like to say either way what to do ! Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cary91 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share #4 Posted January 3, 2014 Thanks for the replys guys, my thoughts for if I was to attempt a replacement, would be to pain stakenly hand sew the zipper as to use the existing holes in the leather from the original zipper, I think though that this will just be left as is. I would really hate to destroy it, as this jacket has issues already with the leather, actually it appears to have ripped several times and been sewn back together ages ago. All the rips have perforated holes and the one has what appears to be period thread that has deteriorated and come undone, another on the back a small spot has the perforation, but no threads, and the last would be about a foot length of stitching running almost parallel to the left sleeve reinforcement which is only noticeable upon very close inspection.. Not to mention perforations where a name tape once was. Oh Well, it has nice character, and will display nicely underneath a may West, when I do school displays. One day I will own a nice and a reproduction... one day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeuceGI Posted January 4, 2014 Share #5 Posted January 4, 2014 As others have said leaving it as-is will be the best course...... but If the shearling is solid you can hand sew a replacement zip using the existing holes. It is VERY time consuming & I only do it if I can find a solid period replacement zip. You will also need to find some period cotton thread of the correct weight. Modern synthetic thread is much more abrasive & likely to cut into the hide. Another method I learned from a vintage jacket painter/restorer is to remove just the teeth from the old zip, trim the tape close to the stitching seam and lay the replacement zip over the existing tape which will serve to reinforce the shearling, and it won't be visible. Machine sewing the new zip using this method gives really good results. I've got shearling garments I repaired 20+ years ago that are still serviceable (not that I wear them). Also, if you plan on looking for a vintage or NOS zip look for a Talon or Conmar. Crown zips look the coolest, but in my experience they are the most fragile 70 years on. Again, leaving it alone is best, though my "ODC" won't let me not restore my stuff. Good luck with it & show us the whole jacket. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWII Parachutist Posted January 4, 2014 Share #6 Posted January 4, 2014 Would replacing the metal teeth be feasible? I have heard of this being done. If you get an identical zipper, burn off the material and carefully open up the crimped end, you can carefully line it up on the destroyed area and crimp them back. I have never done it so I don't know if it really works or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuddy Posted January 4, 2014 Share #7 Posted January 4, 2014 Would replacing the metal teeth be feasible? I have heard of this being done. If you get an identical zipper, burn off the material and carefully open up the crimped end, you can carefully line it up on the destroyed area and crimp them back. I have never done it so I don't know if it really works or not. Now there is an idea !! never thought of that one !! LB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_lits Posted January 4, 2014 Share #8 Posted January 4, 2014 The chevron Crown zippers are notorious, they are beautiful zippers but are common to failure. If the only issue with the jacket was the zip I would say repair it via a hand sewn option with an original zip, but as it stands I would leave it alone. I have done some zip replacement and as Sabre said you really need to watch perforation issues with old shearling. The ones I have done have been hand sewn through the original holes. Time consuming for sure but it can yield new life in the item, finding an original zip is the key bit. As for replacing a tooth... never done that. And make sure it was from another chevron tooth Crown if you were to try. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeuceGI Posted January 4, 2014 Share #9 Posted January 4, 2014 You could do this if the tape and the corded edge of the tape are intact (the OP's looks to be toast). Works best with brass or nickeled brass Talons or Conmars. Crowns seem to be made (plated or not) of a pot-metal based alloy that is nowhere near as malleable, and is much more "corrosive" You can also transplant the slide stops at the top & the stop box at the bottom. Tim Would replacing the metal teeth be feasible? I have heard of this being done. If you get an identical zipper, burn off the material and carefully open up the crimped end, you can carefully line it up on the destroyed area and crimp them back. I have never done it so I don't know if it really works or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cary91 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share #10 Posted January 4, 2014 That is a great idea, and might be useful on a few other zipper items I have, though on this jacket not a feasible solution. As it is completely shot. I think I will hate opt to leave it as is, if the shearing shearling was in better shape, it would be a different story, but I hate to fus with it and destroy it. Plus the jacket looks cooler unzipped and hanging open anyhow right lol, I mean that's how they all dressed back then too by what looked "cool" ! I will put some pictures of the jacket in the latest acquisition thread You could do this if the tape and the corded edge of the tape are intact (the OP's looks to be toast). Works best with brass or nickeled brass Talons or Conmars. Crowns seem to be made (plated or not) of a pot-metal based alloy that is nowhere near as malleable, and is much more "corrosive" You can also transplant the slide stops at the top & the stop box at the bottom. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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