gitana Posted August 22, 2013 Share #1 Posted August 22, 2013 Sorry for the poor photos, but I don't know anything about knives so what should I look for to make sure this isn't a repro? Would $200 be a good price for it? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted August 22, 2013 Share #2 Posted August 22, 2013 gitana- It looks like an ACC. Check the guard directly under the wooden grip, below the finger grooves. Why I say ACC is because of the rounded handle. Also check the front of the guard for markings, just in case someone switched an ACC handle onto an OCL, or HD&S knife. Those are the three companies who made the flanged guards. The $200 price is fair for an ACC based on what I see. For an OCL or HD&S $200 is a steal. I'm still leaning towards an ACC. Mark would be A.C.Co.USA,1917. Let us know what you have. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted August 22, 2013 Thank you! I will check and let you know. I believe the markings were ACC like you have described, but cannot remember for sure. I'm trying to gather a little info to make a fair offer. You've been a big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted August 26, 2013 Okay, I got it. You were right in that it is an ACC, and the blade seems to be very nice with the original bluing. This is my first trench knife, and I can really see wanting more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted August 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #6 Posted August 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted August 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #8 Posted August 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted August 26, 2013 Share #9 Posted August 26, 2013 I'd get some oil on the metal. Looks great. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Still-A-Marine Posted August 26, 2013 Share #10 Posted August 26, 2013 I would use gun oil an 0000 steel wool. Nice find. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gitana Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted August 26, 2013 Thank you, I was wondering how best to clean it up. Would there be any reason to take it apart, and if so, what tool do I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKIPH Posted August 26, 2013 Share #12 Posted August 26, 2013 Why take it apart. Skull crusher bolt could be rusted on, why take a chance breaking it off. Just my opinion. SKIP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony V Posted August 26, 2013 Share #13 Posted August 26, 2013 Congratulations on a very nice addition to your collection ! I agree with gb and always remember a little oil can go a long way, 0000 steel wool comes in handy often. keep in mind that "Edged Weapons" can be very addictive, so I have been told. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctyankee Posted August 30, 2013 Share #14 Posted August 30, 2013 Those are some beautiful fighting knives. I'm afraid to use steel wool on my blades. Maybe on some I wouldn't worry too much, but on the ones that have a natural patina (like some of the trench knives) I think it would ruin it. The patina is something that you could never fake or imitate. I think that a lot of serious collectors would rather see a little rust rather than shiny metal. I'm by no means an expert, but my family was into all kinds of antiques and collectibles including military fighting knives. So I have a general idea of the dos and don'ts concerning antiques and collectibles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted August 30, 2013 Share #15 Posted August 30, 2013 I've never had a problem with #0000 steel wool. If you want to approach it more cautiously you can try the 3M (white) scotch bright pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch03 Posted August 30, 2013 Share #16 Posted August 30, 2013 Nice Trench Knife! Congrats! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctyankee Posted September 9, 2013 Share #17 Posted September 9, 2013 I've never had a problem with #0000 steel wool. If you want to approach it more cautiously you can try the 3M (white) scotch bright pads. I just tried that #0000 steel wool on some antique eating utensils (knives and forks) I believe that you are right. It doesn't remove much at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted September 9, 2013 Share #18 Posted September 9, 2013 I just tried that #0000 steel wool on some antique eating utensils (knives and forks) I believe that you are right. It doesn't remove much at all. Keep in mind that lubing the abrasive with a liquid will further reduce any tendency to scratch the surface. Mineral spirits, kroils penetrating oil, Hoppe’s #9 are just a few of the liquids I’ve used in the past to loosen up and remove corrosion from the surface of different metals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctyankee Posted September 10, 2013 Share #19 Posted September 10, 2013 sactroop, you're gonna laugh, but I used canola oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactroop Posted September 10, 2013 Share #20 Posted September 10, 2013 I'm not laughing. But please don't use the Hoppe's #9 to season your cast iron skillet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garandomatic Posted September 10, 2013 Share #21 Posted September 10, 2013 With a blued finish, not removing much still removes some. I oil mine and let it be, it's nearly identical to yours, slightly less rust on the skull crusher, I think. I sure wouldn't do it to a gun unless it was real bad with rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctyankee Posted September 11, 2013 Share #22 Posted September 11, 2013 I'm not laughing. But please don't use the Hoppe's #9 to season your cast iron skillet. That reminds me about when I was in the Navy, they used the same tanks to store JP5 as they did the drinking water. It didn't kill us, but it didn't taste very good either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flightpath Posted September 11, 2013 Share #23 Posted September 11, 2013 Hi, just a note........ be carefull when useing steel wool or simular near the wood grip, don't want to rub any of the finish off the wood. (I just cleaned up an 1870 norwegian bayonet (Remington rolling block) and took off a little of the woods original finish (just a little, but I notice it even if nobody else does!) . cheers, -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now