Welshman Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #26 Posted August 26, 2013 If that's all you have in it ($42), that my friend, is a bargain. Just out of curiosity; what is the going rate for an M1 helmet on that side of the Atlantic? I picked one up a couple of weeks ago for £6.00, $9.32. It wasn't sold to me as a WW2 M1 helmet, it looked like one, and it had a plastic liner, netting and a 80s? chinstrap, now for me to make it look anything like a WW2 M1, (this is not to deceive or con anyone), I have to paint it, cork it, and get a repro helmet chinstrap, the paint was £7.00, the cork, I've already have, the chinstrap cost me £7.50, that's a total of £20.00, $32.14, don't know yet if I'm going to get a fibre liner for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted August 26, 2013 Share #27 Posted August 26, 2013 Dave....WW2 fibre / "plastic" liners are not difficult to come by...there are usually several to be found on eBay at any given time. However...they are frequently missing their sweatbands and leather chinstraps. So, apart from the cost of the liner, you can add on £125 or so just to replace the chinstrap and sweatbands with WW2 originals! An alternative would be to opt for a 1950s Belgian liner from Epic Militaria in Aberystwyth. These are pretty much identical to US WW2 liners but much cheaper. As your helmet is effectively a repro, then perhaps it wouldn't matter too much if you used one of these liners? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ORIGINAL-M1-HELMET-LINER-POST-WAR-ISSUE-/360454915323?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item53ecc984fb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshman Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share #28 Posted August 26, 2013 It looks Ok to me. clicked on the link, but its taken to long to down load?, I need a new lap top, even the keys are not always working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavscout6b Posted August 28, 2013 Share #29 Posted August 28, 2013 I knew things would vary with condition, etc. Just wondered if there was much difference between locales. There are the occasional "steals", but a general figure in the US seems to be around $75-$125 for a decent shell. You will pay equal to, or more for an appropriate liner. The Vietnam-era & later ones are steadily creeping up. The steel alone often runs $40-$75. Liners are still fairly cheap, but its kind of scary since you could buy a complete helmet, liner, & woodland cover for about $25 within the last 10 years, and $40 within the last 5 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshman Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share #30 Posted August 28, 2013 I can pick up a front seam shell only, I think its Korean painted, for £30.00, $46.56 with postage, from a dealer I've bought from before, but it would be criminal for me to mess around with it, and I think I would be shot if I said I had on this Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GITom1944 Posted August 29, 2013 Share #31 Posted August 29, 2013 Regarding the USN 7 helmet, I have to save that your corking job looks much better than anything I've tried to do (or ever will try again in the future). As has been said, replicating the cork texture is harder than it sounds. One suggestion I would make is to overspray the helmet with a flat finish lacquer such as Testor's Dullcote from a spray can (always test it first in an inconspicuous area - some paints will reacted negatively to it). The paint you used was probably "flat" but it has a much more pronounced sheen than did U.S. wartime paint. Not only is the sheen less accurate but it tends to highlight/exaggerate certain imperfections in the finish. Dulling it down will be more accurate, it will help to blend the textures together, and it might make the colors appear darker. Super flat paint also can provide a better finish if you try to weather the surface with dirt, etc. There's more little nooks and crannies in a flat finish than a smoother one to hold particles of stuff. I'll bet if you were to try this with a few more helmets they'd keep looking better & better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corpl. Cleaver Posted August 31, 2013 Share #32 Posted August 31, 2013 Pretty good for a first attempt. But the guys are right, cork, color and types of paint are an issue. But you have proven to be a good painter, so the next one should be great! Good luck man Here is one that I painted last week. Message me later and maybe I can help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavscout6b Posted August 31, 2013 Share #33 Posted August 31, 2013 I can pick up a front seam shell only, I think its Korean painted, for £30.00, $46.56 with postage, from a dealer I've bought from before, but it would be criminal for me to mess around with it, and I think I would be shot if I said I had on this Forum They would all be outside my house afterwards, with torches & pitchforks, if they knew some of the paints & techniques I have used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavscout6b Posted August 31, 2013 Share #34 Posted August 31, 2013 Corp. Cleaver: I really like the color & detail on the emblem. Outstanding!! Welshman: Don't be discouraged with all the nit-picks & commentary. Actually, I find some of the "flaws" make it more appealing. Are there runs in paint? Yes... Are there crisp, sharp lines in the lettering? No... Would an original have runs in the paint? Yes... Would the lettering be perfect? No... Perfection irritates me. Again; not a bad job. I look forward to seeing the next example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
124cav Posted September 3, 2013 Share #35 Posted September 3, 2013 T-Bone did you annoy me? generally the only people that annoy me are: 1. those who ask really stupid question that are easily answered by opening the most basic of books 2. Those that refuse to buy books as "everything they need to know is free on the web" 2.A) those that put my stuff on the web for free. 3. Those that have no idea who I am and try and argue or lecture me on stuff from my books that they have gotten wrong. oh, and 4. People that fake stuff up, or make up spurious stories in order sell otherwise useless items. not to mention 5. people who break up photo albums. 6. People who need to just touch a military vehicle to make it run and stay in perfect shape. and 7. I'm sure there is one, but I'm too annoyed right now to mention it to someone lest they go out of their way to annoy me. Best answers ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavscout6b Posted September 3, 2013 Share #36 Posted September 3, 2013 Welshman: I kept thinking about "corking", gathering the materials, and the problem (I think it was Sabrejet?) had with cork wanting to float in the paint. Idea: Sawdust ? Someplaces used it in lieu of cork, which was a vital commodity in other products. Its easily obtained, and could even be made if needed with scrap wood. I doubt a local carpenter or joinery ( Is that the correct usage?) would mind parting with a bag of sawdust from their dustbin. Although its pourous, I think it would absorb paint & float less than cork. The only one flaw I can think of is that wood readily retains moisture. You would have check to make sure its dry before being used. Otherwise it might clump, ruin the paint, or get sealed in by the paint causing problems later. Has anyone tried it? Thoughts? Comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Willaert Posted September 4, 2013 Share #37 Posted September 4, 2013 For reference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corpl. Cleaver Posted September 4, 2013 Share #38 Posted September 4, 2013 Johan, thanks for the reference pics. I based mine off of photos of the unit I portray, they all show the larger size insignia like I painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshman Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share #39 Posted September 4, 2013 Corp. Cleaver: I really like the color & detail on the emblem. Outstanding!! Welshman: Don't be discouraged with all the nit-picks & commentary. Actually, I find some of the "flaws" make it more appealing. Are there runs in paint? Yes... Are there crisp, sharp lines in the lettering? No... Would an original have runs in the paint? Yes... Would the lettering be perfect? No... Perfection irritates me. Again; not a bad job. I look forward to seeing the next example. Hi cavscout6b Been away away for a couple of days, thank you for the comments, my next project is a Medic Helmet, with the four circles and crosses, I'm using the last of my of the cork, and paint, I'm doing my own stencil, I think this will be my last one will show photos of it. Welshman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavscout6b Posted September 7, 2013 Share #40 Posted September 7, 2013 The beauty of WW2 US medic helmets: Like the MP helmets, there was no distinct regulation of marking until AFTER the war. (There shouldn't be anyone arguing about "correct".) My first one, used medical tape & cans of red & white paint they were throwing out @ work. (The circles were only 4", but it didn't turn out bad.) Before you start, take a few minutes and look around here: http://www.med-dept.com/gallery/ These 2 guys have done extensive work and collecting of WW2 US Medical Dept. items, regulations, and kit. There might be something you like or a combination thereof, that you might want to try. Photos throughout the site, also show some of the variations that existed within single units. I have a few more MP helmets in the works, but hope to try a variation of the medic helmet in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welshman Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share #41 Posted September 7, 2013 Hi cavscout6b. Thank you for the links, the War Graves Project photos were very moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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