Jump to content

Best way to clean the rust off of this dog tag?


bellasilva
 Share

Recommended Posts

Normally I wouldn't attempt to clean up any of my dog tags but this has a great history and I only mean to get rid of the rust and not the patina..I don't want this thing shining like an uncirculated quarter. I have a dremel tool with the wire brush attachments, I was thinking the brass wire brush?

post-104906-0-81693800-1374703307.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never even heard of that stuff but I just did some research and it looks promising so I ordered a bottle. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never even heard of that stuff but I just did some research and it looks promising so I ordered a bottle. Thanks!

Hi bellasilva. If you are talking about Naval Jelly, please make sure that you follow the instructions. This stuff will remove the bluing off of gun metal, plus just being caustic in nature. Otherwise----it's great!! Thanks, Al.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Normally I wouldn't attempt to clean up any of my dog tags but this has a great history and I only mean to get rid of the rust and not the patina..I don't want this thing shining like an uncirculated quarter. I have a dremel tool with the wire brush attachments, I was thinking the brass wire brush?

 

 

 

That's what I use with great results, mostly on old swords and bayonets: the brass is much softer than the steel and will not scratch it: in fact it will not take off the patina - just the active brown rust. I use the dremel tool on low speed but on tougher spots will up it a notch. I start by scrubbing it with a Scotch nylon kitchen pad soaked with WD 40 and I keep the metal covered with WD 40 while running the brass brush over it. Unlike chemical processes you have complete control over the process and - again - you don't have to worry about removing the patina and ending up with a shiny oold object. Remember - use a brass brush only.

 

 

Here's before and after of a Civil War sword that had so much rust you could not even tell that the blade was engraved or etched (the bright shiny spots are just photo flash reflections).

 

1.jpg

 

2.jpg

 

3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips gents. Bob, that sword you salvaged looks like a beaut. How long did it take you to finish? Also, I decided to try soaking the dog tag in white vinegar overnight and this morning I scrubbed it down with balled up aluminum foil. It came out much better than I expected! Here's the after shot:

post-104906-0-77469300-1374778916.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Navel jelly will also burn you since it contains sulfuric acid. Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BigDogMilitaria

Thanks for the tips gents. Bob, that sword you salvaged looks like a beaut. How long did it take you to finish? Also, I decided to try soaking the dog tag in white vinegar overnight and this morning I scrubbed it down with balled up aluminum foil. It came out much better than I expected! Here's the after shot:

I think that looks great, i wouldnt do anything else to it. Good job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips gents. Bob, that sword you salvaged looks like a beaut. How long did it take you to finish? Also, I decided to try soaking the dog tag in white vinegar overnight and this morning I scrubbed it down with balled up aluminum foil. It came out much better than I expected! Here's the after shot:

 

 

regular tooth paste can also be a light abrasive and cleaner.

 

Also a simple pencil eraser can work off rust.The white ones that are a bit more gritty work as well as on on a regular #2 pencil.Always best to try a test spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use blue wonder:

http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

 

first use it with a brass brush... that will remove all the rust down into the pits.

then to clean off the brass that the brush leaves everywhere, soak 0000 steel wool in it and clean off the brass/any remaining rust.

 

it works wonders and will not remove any bluing/park etc... unless you scrub at it too much. basically go lightly and this will stop rust. I have solved a few problems with this stuff, and no damage to any finishes, even high polished blue.

 

to keep rust off after I have cleaned it... I use Kroil to soak... wipe that off then coat with Ballistol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Another thing you can try in the future is Evaporust. It's a vegetable based rust remover, you can get it at Harbor Freight by the gallon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

On light rust, I use oil and a copper penny (pre 1982). The molecular bonding in copper is softer than the molecular bonding in steel (no scratches because copper is a softer metal than steel), but harder than the bond between the steel and the oxidation (rust). Takes it down nicely. Will work on blued items with light rust as well, without taking the bluing off as long as you take care and don't go all crazy with it (the bond between the steel and the bluing is tougher than the soft copper). The penny will leave copper colored skids on the blued surface. Don't panic, it rubs off.

 

BUT, with cleaning rust off a blued surface, there will be exposed bright metal once the rust is gone because the bluing may have been eaten away by the oxidation prior to cleaning.

 

I highly recommend experimenting on a non-valuable artifact until you feel good about the technique.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vinegar is actually a solution of Acetic Acid.. Cleaning such items with acidic or basic chemicals is not a good idea, infact with that bath you removed almost all of the patina... At least now be sure to wash accurately the dog tag with water and dry it with a cloth and a bit of alcohol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing you can try in the future is Evaporust. It's a vegetable based rust remover, you can get it at Harbor Freight by the gallon.

 

I second this....it will remove bluing and parkerizing, but will not hurt, paint, leather, even fabric to some extrent (might leave it a bit darker). Safe to dump down a drain. I used this to clean up a rusty set of AN-6530 goggle frames - turned out just fine. Autozone also sells it by the quart for around $8.99. You can also soak small scraps of cloth a lay them on trouble spots....like the A washers on helmet liners that are corroded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...