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Verdigris


skautdog
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I have a mint (apparently unissued) M1916 WWI holster dated 1918. I store it in a controlled humidity environment. However, verdigris presents itself on the fittings. Is there ANY way to stop verdigris or does it just exist? I coated the fittings with RenWax, but that has not stopped the verdigris from periodically returning. Any suggestions appreciated.

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Verdigris happens. Verdigris is a chemical reaction between the brass and the oils of the leather. There is nothing you can really do, just remove it when you can. When the oil has been sucked out of the leather, it will stop and the brass item will likely disintegrate and fall out. Verdigris happens.

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I use wooden cocktail sticks to "scoop" it out from around the base of rivets etc. If you do it thoroughly it'll be good for a while. Just check it periodically and repeat as necessary.

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I use wooden cocktail sticks to "scoop" it out from around the base of rivets etc. If you do it thoroughly it'll be good for a while. Just check it periodically and repeat as necessary.

 

 

Wooden toothpicks work well too: it's surprising how much you can dig out from under a snap. I don't think I've ever found a military 38 shoulder holster that didn't have one snap broken off because of verdigris corrosion. Likewise, fighting knife sheaths often have broken straps or snaps from this same problem. I have heard people call verdigris a "patina," but it's not: it's green rust.

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There are two options I would consider for slowing down corrosion of this kind.

 

One is to carefully apply Ren-Wax as you have to the metal surfaces you can see without bending or pulling on anything.

 

The other is a petroleum product called Rust-Ban, a very lightweight thin oil used for metals subjected to extremes of outdoor corrosion.

 

The trick is in not getting any on the leather or other parts, and accepting that treatment will not prevent verdigris so much as it will control and retard it.

 

I used Ren-Wax on my helmet verdigris with very satisfactory results and no damage to the artifact.

 

Lemon juice will also neutralize verdigris crystals. I've done this, and the result gave a nice clean surface for Ren-Wax.

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Thanks to all. Unfortunately the responses were what I have experienced. Just hoped someone had a magic cure.

 

Dr. Bugme's Magic Cures - Cheap: $199.99 Cures everything except stupidity and ignorance.

 

Sadly, a toothpick and rag are all I've ever found that worked also. :(

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Lemon juice. Interesting. Salt and lemon juice plus UV light (sunlight) works on rust stains. I once cleaned up some patrches that had been stapled to a board then rusted that way. The thing is you have to really rise everything out afterwards as it is a tad acidic.

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Just considering: if a battery terminal 'anti-corrosion trick', might just work...

 

I learned from a old-time auto-mechanic, that placing a copper penny (or ANY pure-copper metal) on the top of a "wet-acid [auto]" battery will/does cause that adjacent-placed copper to 'absorb' the corrosion/degradation; rather than the batteries' terminals, thus 'catching' the brunt of it.

It DOES WORK VERY WELL!

I wedge a (pre-'82) penny, under the battery hold-down; and it readily "absorbs" the oxidation, to far more effectiveness, than the terminals would/will do (very corrosion-negative-to terminals), otherwise.

I usually replace with a new 'chunk' of copper, several times, throughout the service-life of the automotive wet-cell battery. The [added] copper will actually degrade to the point of near-complete disintegration.

 

****

 

While I would certainly NOT place adjutant copper in direct contact with the "conservatory-type-item"; close proximity should be very helpful, (especially when in a contained environment).

 

[Note: I have never tried this on Military items. Though, it certainly is very sound, in [other such similar] principles.

Also note, that in "electro-chemical terms", what is 'going on' in any "rust/corrosive process", is technically called a "Redox" (Reduction-Oxidation) reaction (process),

It is most-basically the difference of "redox potentials" between various metals; combined with the presence of oxygen.

Similarly, application of galvanization (Zinc-plating), results in the Zinc being oxidized, prior to the iron/steel, because Zinc has a higher redox potential vs. iron/steel.]

 

****

 

Additionally, as acetic acid is substantially responsible for, and accelerates Verdigris; the cleaning with lemon juice, while may remove noticeable Verdigris (as sort of a 'solvent'), it could likely contribute to further such degradation. Especially w/o further/proper maintenance.

Treatment (afterwords) with a simple "Base", such as baking soda, would appear to much assist, to prevent further Verdigris formation, thereof; after the acetic acid/lemon juice application.

[AKA: Acid/base neutralization].

After reasonable-length of baking soda (in-paste) application, clean-off (when dried), and coat with quality weapons oil/preservation wax.

 

****

 

Although what I relate, is of somewhat in the nature of proactive conjecture; and as I have (again) not personally/ACTUALLY tried/experimented with it on Military items...

It does conform to known chemical processes/principles.

[Yes, I was a BIO/CHEM major, in another life...]

 

...I shall similarly process some of my collectibles, and relate results.....

 

In any case what I suggest, I most certainly Do Not believe, would do Any harm; when performed as described.

And as previously suggested, 'contain' any such preservation technique to "just" the copper/brass.

Keep off of leathers, as best as possible.

 

N.B.

[Whatever your take, on this post; Please do, "Whatever", at "your own risk and discretion"...

Keep in mind that, I mighta-maybe-just-coulda-been, ...a flunk-out of the "DeVry Institute CHEM-Tech-Program"..... ;) ]

 

Regards,

Don.

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