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M-1 Helmet Re-Cork


shevy
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it looks pretty good to me, I have a WWII helmet with factory original finish and it has a similiar look except it has some aging, yours has a new fresh look

post-1885-1334367529.jpg

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it looks pretty good to me, I have a WWII helmet with factory original finish and it has a similiar look except it has some aging, yours has a new fresh look[/quot

 

Took me a little wile to figure out the process. Plan on adding straps.

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As re-corking efforts go it looks pretty good. I know from first hand experience how difficult it is to make the cork look like an integral part of the paint rather than just clinging to its surface, so to speak. Well done.

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As re-corking efforts go it looks pretty good. I know from first hand experience how difficult it is to make the cork look like an integral part of the paint rather than just clinging to its surface, so to speak. Well done.

 

I used a OD green paint thinned out with water as a base coat. My cork was very fine, sifted with a fine screen almost like a dust. Used a very small hole spice type shaker. Let it dry. Very lightly went over the helmet with a 220 grit sand paper. Spray painted with Krylon OD green. And let it dry. Here is another picture. DSC01536.jpg

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Looks good :thumbsup:

 

The first couple of times I tried to re-cork a helmet it was a complete disaster :pinch:

I experimented on plastic milk jugs a couple of times until I got the the technique down.

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Use a old fashion kitchen box grater. Then I sifted the cork with a screen cover you would put on a pan to prevent grease splatter. The corks texture was like a fine dust.

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  • 2 months later...
Sandlapper

I have a few shells I would like to refinish. I have some Rapco Parts 33070 Early WW II Lusterless Olive Drab but I'm worried the color is too light? Has anyone used the 33070 paint before?

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I have a few shells I would like to refinish. I have some Rapco Parts 33070 Early WW II Lusterless Olive Drab but I'm worried the color is too light? Has anyone used the 33070 paint before?

 

33070 is in the range. I've compared it against some helmets that were still in the paper wrap/ separators, and its pretty decent. Original M1 helmets can be all over the place on color - between use and repaint...

 

Some light oil like WD40 can be used after the paint has cured to darken up the finish a little.

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Sandlapper
33070 is in the range. I've compared it against some helmets that were still in the paper wrap/ separators, and its pretty decent. Original M1 helmets can be all over the place on color - between use and repaint...

 

Some light oil like WD40 can be used after the paint has cured to darken up the finish a little.

 

 

Thanks for the reply Greaser, I have a late WWII swivel bail helmet as my only original reference and when I sprayed my blank shell and color came out to be significantly lighter I was concerned. I feel better now!! Thanks!

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Here are my results with the RAPCO 33070 paint. What do you guys think? I'm going to take a tip from this thread and go over the cork with sandpaper.

 

121cuvq.jpg

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2ndInf.Div.

Out of curiosity, how did you apply the cork? Sprinkle it on when the spray paint was still wet? I went through 2 cans trying to get it right with different methods and I never did, but I think now I'll be able to.

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I sprayed one coat while it was still wet, I used a seasoning shaker to apply the cork evenly. I repeated this step twice to get a nice even amount.

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Seasoning shaker works. I use a mason jar with some holes drilled in the lid. I hold the helmet in one hand at waist level and the mason jar at or above eye height and sprinkle on. The distance seems to help keep the cork from being too heavy in any area.

 

180 grit sandpaper to knock things down, then a couple more coats of paint, or some additional cork and sanding in thin areas.

 

I've moved to using a gravity feed spray gun and automotive paint.

 

post-3887-1342096252.jpg

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Effectively re-corking a shell is definitely not as easy as it seems! I've done it myself a few times on beat-up old VN era shells just to practise the techniques. The hard part is to make the cork look like it's mixed in with the paint rather than clinging to its surface! I bought some "pro" cork and paint from a dealer and followed the application instructions to the letter. This involved mixing the cork with the paint then applying it with a 2" brush. The difficult part was moving the paint/cork mix evenly around the shell as it had a tendency to "bunch up"! The second technique involved first painting the shell and then sprinkling the cork over it whilst it was still wet. The cork, being almost powder-like clung to the surface. When dry, I applied two more coats to seal it. On balance, the second technique produced the better results but I wasn't entirely happy with either of them.

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  • 6 months later...

I agree re corking the helmet is the most difficult part. I've been working on a few junk sells I bought to sell as reenacting helmets but I can't get that cork to look even like the professional sellers do. I've tried the seasoning shaker method and more recently mixing the cork with the paint and brushing it on. It's terribly frustrating.

this the method I have just tried.

http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Projects/M1HelmetResto/index.html

 

I'd love to get my helmets to come out like Grant G did. I'd be thrilled!

 

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/73714-recorked-and-restored/page__hl__wine

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Wow that sure will help me out in getting a repro done effeciently. Thanks Guys for the tips

 

There are quite a few threads on these forums about helmet restoration. I've found them a HUGE help.I just still can't nail that perfect, evenly spread cork job.

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